NDR - Anyone used the Millermatic 180 and a spool gun on AL

Charlie S and Titan

Well-known member
Any other hobby weldors out there on the DBHP?

I'm thinking about upgrading my entry level Lincoln to a bigger Miller with a spool gun.

The local shop recommended a Millermatic 180 (220V power) with a Spoolmate 3035.

The Miller help line suggested the 180 but that I look at their new Spoolmate 100 spool gun as a more economical option (you can buy 3 Spoolmate 100s and have change left over for wire for the price of the Spoolmate 3035 and the SGA100 adapter).

Has anyone used the 180 (or it's predecessor the 175)? How is it? How do you like their spool guns? Have you used the 3035 or the 100 spool guns?

As far as thickness I'll be welding - 0.0125" the most frequently (0.25" absolute maximum). I think I'll be using 5xxx and 6xxx series aluminum for the most part.

The little 110v MIG machine I have now has been great for mild steel, but word on the street is that it can't keep up with Aluminum except in a very limited fashion (has a teflon sleeve kit available, and of course you need an argon tank). If I spent that money, I'd still be limited to 3/16" by the power source and I'd still have to live with the rats nests and limitations of trying to push aluminum.

Plus I used to be limited to 110v (hence the 110v welder), but now, thanks to Kylen's guidance, I have 220v power out to my garage - so a 220 unit is my preference.

My first project is a side locker internal fuel tank for my boat. In my twisted math, it is more cost effective to upgrade my welder and do it myself as it is to pay a shop to do it, since I'll have the welder in the end for other projects.

Can you share any advice on your experience with the Miller 175/180, 220v welders, spool guns, and the like?

Thanks,
Charlie

PS. I'd love to go to a TIG unit, but I've been told the baby TIGs like the econotig are not a good choice versus the 180/spoolgun. I can't justify a better TIG or Pulse MIG, price wise...
 
PS.

Spec wise here are the differences:

Model Duty Cycle Speed Wire sizes
Spoolmate 100 135A @ 30% 65-125 IPM (used with the MM 180) .030-.035
Spoolmate 3035 150A @ 50% 115-715 IPM .023-.035

The Spoolmate 100 is ~$200 and direct connect, the Spoolmate 3035 is ~$500 plus needs a ~$250 adapter (SGA100) for a total of ~$750.

According the the Miller help desk rep, the two are virtually identical in hand.

Clearly a difference in performance, but for "hobby use" rather than production, I'm not sure it will matter. I won't be breaking any speed welding or duty cycle records.

Thoughts?

Charlie
 
I have the 180 and it's a very nice machine. I was looking for something bigger when the local shop talked me into the little 180. Although I haven't had a need for the spool gun, I have used other miller spool guns on bigger welders in the past. They work pretty well. Any time I needed to use them in the past they were on THICK stuff though, like 1/2" or thicker stock. On the thicker stuff it was a 2 person job to keep a torch on the area and keep it hot. The thick stuff discipates the heat too quick and it's hard to keep up. Anything 1/4" or thinner would be a piece of cake I'm sure, but I always had a tig sitting there to reach for. (no, not at home... I wish)

My dad and I have been using it on a car project for the last year and a half and have really put it through it's paces. Couple issues that we've run into were both "user error". The wire tension setting is very touchy and a hair one way or the other and it don't work... I also have a bad habit of pulling the welder around the shop by the gun and it can loosen up at the machine, and a hair is all it takes to vent the gas, and it don't work then either.

To be honest, they didn't have that 100 available when I bought the machine or I would've grabbed it. They only had the $600 model available and I didn't have enough "aluminum work" looming to justify it. For 2 hundy though, I'll have one soon.
 
Dwayne,

Thanks! Sounds like a good setup.

According to the Miller help desk if a MM 180 is below serial number LH210051 you'll need a kit, which I think has a diverter valve in it. After s/n LH210051 has it built in... He told me to check for the s/n in case the unit has been on the shelf for a while.

He said the spoolmate 100 has only been out 5 or 6 months, and a lot of the dealers don't even know about it (my Airgas guy didn't). Part number is 300371 and it lists for about $218 retail, and you'll pay less if your supplier is a decent one.

Thanks,
Charlie
 
Cool, thanks for the info... I'm lookin' forward to givin' it a whirl!!!

You'll like the 180, and you're right about the "dealers", cuz list on their web for the 180 was 950 or 980 or somethin', and I know my dealer sent me out the door w/ extra tips, 5lbs. of .035, 5lbs of .035 stainless and stargon gas for under 900. All depends on how much wiggle room they have on that gun. Keep me posted if you take it for a ride before I get a chance to. It's carvin' season for me now, getting ready for Westlake, so I don't see it happening for me until around April/May.
 
Charlie, let me know what you think of the 180 for aluminum. I TIG aluminum and don't even own a MIG anymore. However, iron railings have become my bread and butter for the business and TIG is just too time consuming for this type of work. I would like to offer aluminum railings to my customers at a reasonable price. A machine like that may be the answer. Please send a PM or post your opinion. Thanks, Kevin
 
Leslie,

I've got a General International that I got based on recommendations here and in the woodworking magazines. Good value for a table saw.

Charlie
 
Charlie- you have an 18' lund right? let's see some pics of the cavity... if it's anything like the 20' you're going to have to darn near disassemble the side storage area to wedge the tank in there...

Have you contacted lund to find a replacement tank? I'm thinking it would be safer/easier to do... If you build a tank you'll need to pressure test it, etc. so you know you don't have leaks.....
 
Hi Paul.

Yup, I have a 1999 Alaskan 18'er. Pretty much the little brother to yours.

Pictures will have to wait for the Spring as she's under a tarp and several feet of snow. Most snow on record for the month of December here...

Yes, I'll need to pretty much disassemble the top of the passenger locker. It is held on with stainless screws so it shouldn't be horrible (famous last words).

I have a handy copy of "Boatbuilding with Aluminum" right by my side and I've been reading chapter 10 on fuel systems. Mr. Pollard agrees with you, it is better to buy than build. Unfortunatley that part is no longer available and I can't find one anywhere. So, it looks like custom fabrication - either me or someone else, if I can't source one. The commonly available commercial ones just won't fit, I've measured and measured and still can't get them to fit.

Or I could give up and keep running the portable tank. Smarter that way, yes. Nobody said I was smart....

Charlie
 
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