NDR-Montana Vacation help needed

Blake K

Blake K

Active member
Long story short--my wife and I plus another couple are wanting to vacation in Montana since our fly in fishing trip to Ontario appears to be a no go for this summer. None of us have ever been to Montana. We are looking at the last week in July since that is when our other trip was booked for. We like to hike, fish, and open to suggestions such as rafting or horseback riding. We prefer to stay in one centralized location in a house/cabin but be willing to move locations once. We prefer to spend most of our time outdoors and not in a vehicle. Any suggestions/recommendations would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance for any help you can provide me with!
 
My wife and I had a great week or so in Montana many years ago. We stayed in a place called "point of the rocks" guest ranch which was right on the Yellowstone river, about 30 miles south of Gardiner, which is one of the entry points into the park. They had horseback riding on the ranch.They also guide for fishing and also do hunting for elk and deer in the fall. They said that September is the best time to fly fish there with streamers for large trout. We made several day trips into the park, seeing lots of game and Old Faithful , etc and did a raft trip along the river which started outside of the park. It was mid July and we wanted to fly fish, but even in July the river was high and dirty. There was still ice melting in the park! There lots of all large salmon flys hatching ,but I don't think the fish could see them. We caught some trout with large wooly buggers. The spring creeks in the area were supposed to be great, but all of them were booked up. Thanks to my wife we found out about a tailwater fishery in the little Big Horn river, in Eastern Montana, about 6 hours away. Fort Smith was were we stayed, and there rooms available. BelowThe Yellow Tail Dam was where we began our float, and the takeout was 13 miles downstream. We had a guide with a drift boat and we caught loads of trout and some good size whitefish Drifting small # 16 nymphs, and scud patterns, with indicators to show when a fish grabbed the fly. Sometimes we would stop and use dry flies. We caught lots of trout 12" and up with a half dozen about 20". Also some large whitefish that fought well. The next day we took a drift boat on our own and had another great day. The water flow can vary a lot but the river was very clean and cold coming out of the base of the dam. We made another trip the next year with similar results. If the flow was too high they wouldn't let you take the boat yourselves for safety reasons. In the evening we would fish wading near the base of the dam, and there would be huge numbers of rising 12 " trout all around us! On the second trip we also fished out of Missoula where several rivers come together, with guide from Kingfisfer Outfitters, a local tackle shop and also had great fishing. The high water wasn't a problem there.
I'm sure some of the names may have changed but this gives you some places to look. I've been to Montana about 15 times and always had a great time. The hunts were for birds ,deer, antelope, and elk. I have two friends from the east who moved there 30 or so years ago and they had good dogs and contacts so that was a huge help. If I had gone there when I was 14 years old I'd probably be living there now!
 

Montana.

Great place, been there many times, bird hunting and trout lookin'. Always drove there.

"Close" is a relative term.


We once upland bird hunted a ranch that a recently widowed lady owned.

It was miles from her mail box to her house. Her Willy's Jeep was parked by the back door. Barbed wire & fence mending tools, a rifle in a scabbard, and a pistol in a holster mounted on the dash of the Jeep.

She welcomed us and we had to sit a spell to talk, and have coffee and her freshly made cookies. She told us she had to count her cows everyday cuz rustlers were still around, and she did it by Jeep. "It takes me days, but I have a small ranch, others count cows by airplane, or helicopter."

After we signed the register to hunt her land, I asked. "Do you ever get lonely, living here alone?"

She looked at me quizzically, and said. "No... my son just lives down the road." How far I asked? Her reply - "Just 40 miles."

This is just one true story, of many wonderful memories I have of Big Sky County.


Montana is like no other place. The quiet is so deep, that when the wind stops blowing you can hear your heart beat.

Don't go anywhere out there without a full tank of gas, and prepared for whatever arises.


You go there cuz good & great things ain't close.

Enjoy yourself.




my 2 cents
VP
 
Glacier Park is probably my favorite place on earth.
It's getting more and more crowded but you can get away by taking some of the less popular trails or get a climbing guide book. Most of the climbs are not technically difficult and many routes follow breathtaking "goat trails".
The fishing is probably not great in the park but you can catch some monster trout in the blackfoot reservation just to the east.
We canoed the north fork of the flathead when we were young and it was fantastic.
Lodging is probably getting hard to find this late bu still possible with some persistence.
We stayed in a cabin on the reservation about 7 miles east of the park and kept busy for a week with minimal driving by montana standards
 
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If you are interested in Yellowstone, my wife and I have found that the NE entrance is a lot quieter, and a lot close to wildife and fishing, staying in Gardiner or in West Yellowstone. Prices for hotels or rental houses are a little better, too.

But be forewarned. Although there are a couple of good restaurants and bars and a great bakery, the nearest grocery store or fly shop is in Gardiner or Cody, 90 minutes or more way. Stock up on your way in!

We had to cancel last year but I just cashed in my airplane a lodging credits for a trip this September.
 
We have booked a cabin in the Darby area. Hoping to avoid a lot of the crowds by avoiding Yellowstone and Glacier(we will save those for another trip). Planning to get some fly fishing and hiking in. Really looking forward to this. Never been fly fishing so definitely be a learning experience. Any fly fishing tips, hiking tips, places to eat in the Darby area, etc would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!
 
My first tip would be to splurge and hire a guide, especially if you are new to fly fishing. The combination of unfamiliar water and unfamiliar tackle puts two large obstacles between you and the fish.

Be honest with the guide about your experience level--they'll plan the trip accordingly.

If you don't want to spend the money on a guide, at a minimum find a local fly shop and take a few casting lessons. The transition from spinning or casting gear is a hard one--it's a very different casting motion.
 
Jeff Reardon said:
My first tip would be to splurge and hire a guide, especially if you are new to fly fishing. The combination of unfamiliar water and unfamiliar tackle puts two large obstacles between you and the fish.

Be honest with the guide about your experience level--they'll plan the trip accordingly.

If you don't want to spend the money on a guide, at a minimum find a local fly shop and take a few casting lessons. The transition from spinning or casting gear is a hard one--it's a very different casting motion.
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Definitely have plans to hire a guide for a day or two. Last time I used a fly rod was about 40 years ago fishing for bluegill and crappie here in southern Indiana. None of the other 3 people in our group have ever used a fly rod. We all need casting lessons for sure!!
 
The Victor Steakhouse and Lolo Creek Steakhouse are both on 93 north of Darby. I've not eaten at either, but have recs for, both of them. Note, that they vary in price and swankiness.

If you haven't been there visit the Berkley Pit in Butte. It is a very quick trip and mine-blowing.

Don't think you need a fly rod to catch trout. Unless it is fly-only waters, spinners, jigs and even worms work great.
 
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tod osier said:
The Victor Steakhouse and Lolo Creek Steakhouse are both on 93 north of Darby. I've not eaten at either, but have recs for, both of them. Note, that they vary in price and swankiness.

If you haven't been there visit the Berkley Pit in Butte. It is a very quick trip and mine-blowing.

Don't think you need a fly rod to catch trout. Unless it is fly-only waters, spinners, jigs and even worms work great.
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Thanks for the tips! Be great for a couple people in our group not to have to use a fly rod. I plan to use a fly rod simply because of the tradition.
 

No matter where you go in Montana. The best food (especially grass fed beef) are usually in the bars and cafes that the locals frequent. If ya ask around people will gladly tell ya the best places (not tourist places). On some reservations you can enjoy some delicious Bison, and not just burgers.

As almost everywhere, lotta $$$ don't mean good and great food.


You don't need a fly rod, but it just makes the experience much more rewarding IMO. It opens up a whole new world that is not just about catching fish.

I wish you and yours well. Yer gonna have a very rewarding time.


Best regards
Vince
 
If your casting is a little rusty, or non-existent, it's a good idea to brush up on that ahead of time. Your local Orvis or fly shop probably has a class on casting, and you can learn the basics in your yard with a video (take the leader off and just use the fly line). You'll enjoy your trip MUCH more if you have the basics of casting down and aren't frustrated every time you have to cast.
 
ksherbine said:
If your casting is a little rusty, or non-existent, it's a good idea to brush up on that ahead of time. Your local Orvis or fly shop probably has a class on casting, and you can learn the basics in your yard with a video (take the leader off and just use the fly line). You'll enjoy your trip MUCH more if you have the basics of casting down and aren't frustrated every time you have to cast.
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We live in southern Indiana and as far as I know there are no Orvis or fly shops. Planning to order a couple fly rods in the next week or so in order to be able to practice some before we head west. My limited understanding of fly fishing for trout involves a few articles I read on weight of flyrod/reel/line to try to determine what to purchase. It appears I need something in a 5 or 6 weight for trout??

Plan to watch several videos on casting and hopefully will pick up enough from them to become somewhat efficient. My wife and I definitely plan to practice regularly before we head out. Thanks for the tips!!
 

Just a suggestion.

Get a copy of Joan Wulff's - FLY FISHING Expert Advice from a Woman's Perspective.

It will serve you, your wife, and your family very well. It gets right to the heart of the matter.

Very good info, and advice from most likely the best fly caster in North America.



VP
 
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