NDR-Tablesaws and Miter Saws

M

Matt Masters

Active member
I have been out of the woodworking scene for several years and have made do with just your normal hand power saws. I am looking to start buidling up my woodworking equipment again. I am going to be in the market for a good quality tablesaw and miter saw and wanted to get opinions from those who use these tools on a daily basis as to what brands to look into. I know there are the normal big name brands that I can pickup at my local Lowes Or Home Depot, but I know there are more than those companies out there that make a good qaulity saw. I am a firm believer you get what you pay for, and I also want something that will last the rest of my life. Any information is greatly appreciated.
 
Matt~

I agree with "you get what you pay for", but, you do have to ask yourself how many miles are you going to put on it? Is it your everyday profession or occasional project? And, there are always exceptions. I think of my $11 Black & Decker jigsaw that I bought in 1975 - there are some jobs where I grab it over my Porter-Cable.

re Table Saw: Cadillac is PowerMatic. Other very good ones are Delta, Porter-Cable, Jet, Grizzly. On the other hand, I still use a 9" Walker-Turner from the 1930s. Most important part is the fence. It needs to be and STAY exactly parallel to the line of the cut. Whatever you buy, you'll probably be looking for a "cabinet saw" (meaning heavy, solid base), not a "contractors saw" on open legs.

my Chopsaw (not a sliding miter saw - I use a radial arm for those cuts) is a 12" Makita - from Home Depot, I think. Been very happy with it. Only occasional use - but the 12" lets you get through decoy lumber and wide stuff.

Happy Hunting!

SJS
 
As far as usage, it will be used on a weekly basis for projects and side jobs. I have plenty of room so I planned on a cabinet model saw and build my work table around the saw. I am wanting the equipment to stay true and not have to adjust my cuts due to the saw getting off and not staying true, if that makes any sense?

I have several friends who have relatives in the wood working profession and some use everyday normal store bought equipment and just hearing how after years of use and abuse they are not as pleased with the accuarcy of the saw as they were when they bought it new. I know there are numerous variables as to what might make a saw do this, I am just trying to prevent it.

For 90% of the projects I will be doing, I do not see myself needing a radial arm saw to start with. That will be a purchase later on down the road.
 
http://www.sawstop.com/

for table saw's, I truly do not think you can do better than this. most tech schools and many wood shops have all changed out to this for liability reason's given the safety features, but the one thing that is often overlooked is the fact that the trunnions are OVERBUILT to handle the shock of such a sudden stop, thus, they are more acturate and true given the increased mass. having used powermatic, general, delta, unisaws and now this one, I can tell you this is by far my favorite, hands down. I feel it is quieter and just has a more solid feel. the one draw back on this saw in my opinion is the arbor is a bit short if you are doing much stacked dado cuts, especially once you get out to the 3/4" thickness, you don't get many threads on the nut. that said, they were supposidily working on this a few years back, so I don't know if they changed that yet or not.

Most any saw that is in the 3-5 hp model range will be nice, fences are the bomb, thin cut kerf blades I feel often give you the ability to use slightly underpowered saws on thicker cuts, but if true accuracy is needed, then can suffer a bit since with thicker cuts they can wobble slightly more.

as for bandsaws, I personally like the grizzle model 0555 ultimate 14", now if you need even bigger, Laguna would be the way I would go.

as for the radial arm saw, I personally would never own one, a compound sliding miter chop saw is what I would buy instead.
 
Last edited:
Matt

I have a Powermatic 66 and can't imagine having a woodshop without one, unless it was replaced with something bigger like an Oliver, Greenlee, Northfield, etc..


I will keep my eyes open for a tablesaw that might meet your needs. Powermantics, Delta Unisaws, etc. turn up from time to time on craigslust, and at local auctions. If you are not opposed to driving a few hours a lot of possibilities are out there. Make a favorites folder of craigslust search engines and machinery auction sites like www.irsauctions.com and with some luck you will find what you are looking for at a price easier to swallow than new equipment. The key is to search every day and find the good deals before someone else.
 
First I have a table saw that was built in the 1940's by SEARS It was used to build two houses and their cabinet work, trim work, etc. The redeeming quality of that saw is the cast iron bed, rather than stamped steel. It is from my point of view under powered. 1/2 horse. This kind of saw is on Craigs list all the time. People buy them use them once or twice then they sit unused for years. New, the range seems to be between 300 to 500 dollars. If you wanted a used one, look for a cast iron table. Better yet find one with cast iron extensions on the edges of the table. This makes the saw more usable. You might have to buy two saws to get the extensions. You can buy one for a hundred. Clean off the dirt and you have a usable saw. Bang for your buck this is the way to go.

Next step up in saws These have solid beds, better fences, larger motors 220volts, better dust collection(most important for your health) these saws are often referred to as cabinet saws. Here you have to ask yourself the seriousness of your hobby the prices of these beauties range from about 1500 to 15,000 The real deluxe ones will make coffee for you in the morning. You do get what you pay for in cabinet saws.

I have been looking around but I can't justify a four or five thousand dollar saw at my age. I saw a saw at Sears for about 1500 on sale with a stone table I almost pulled the trigger on. Having a good accurate fence no matter what the saw is a time saver and lumber saver. Not all saws have a good one.

You can build your work shop around a good table saw. Good luck in your search what ever you decide.


+
 
Agreed that Powermatic is the standard. They are heavier than Delta Unisaws. I have had a Powermatic Model 72A for just about 20 years. It is a true 14" saw. If I ever get around to it I have a Model 72 12/14" saw from 1967 that is down in the restoration queue. Regarding miter saws, all of mine (3 sliders and standard) are Hitachi, 3 10" saws and a 15". Bandsaws, thats easy, I have a Delta 14" and another just a bit larger

tannewitz_2.jpg

 
Good ole Jeff,


Still operating under the premise of "mine is bigger than yours" and "bigger is better". (insert big smiley face grin)
 
Matt~

You're getting lots of great advice from more experienced sources than I. One thing caught my eye, though, in your recent message. You mentioned building your work table around the table saw. If you have the space, I would avoid this - it's how I had my last shop set up. You probably want a generous outfeed table for your table saw but try not to use it as your work table. If you do, the work table always seems to be full when you need to use the saw.

I have 2 other work benches. One (28" x 96") has vises and is where I do my heavy work - and where I shape decoy bodies. Many of my power tools live right beneath it on open shelves so I can quickly grab - and put away - sanders, skilsaw, jig saws, routers, electric plane, etc. (most of my hand tools, measuring stuff, hardware, is right behind me in bench drawers or in a closed cabinet) Its top is about 36 inches off the floor. My other work bench - I call it my "assembly bench" - is bigger (4' x 8') and also lower. I assemble big stuff there and also use it for glueing, clamping, and painting. (In fact, I have a roll of kraft paper mounted beneath one end so I can roll it out to keep the top clean - just like in the doctors office.) lThis bench is 32" off the floor. Having a variety of heights is handy and definitely helps my back. And, my radial arm bench (which I still like for plowing dadoes and as a cutoff saw) is even higher, at about 38". The older I get, the more I appreciate the higher benches.

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve is SO on the money about, if you can possibly avoid it, not having your assembly (or whatever you want to call it) bench double as your outfeed table for your table saw. My shop is small, only 20X30, and to accomodate a 4X8 table, I had to couple it up with the saw. Here's what you run into (especially if you're not much of a neat freak, like me) looking down the saw:
100_0832_zpsffdc21f8.jpg


A picture being worth a thousand words, there you have it.
Gary
 
Gary your shop is like most normal shops. It's a place where things get done. I am jealous of the second out table on your saw. Also I see your fence still works.

Don't worry about that neat thing. It's a advantage for one thing your wife or significant other will never ask to store things in there. You sneaky devil...( : o ) It's all yours.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top