New Predator BBSB Sneak boat (formerly the Chuck Huff BBSB) info

Cruising right along. The deck has now been finished, permanant marking decals added tooling gelcoat applied and the skin layer of fiberglass done. Next we put a good build layer times 2 and core then we build the structural framing and add wheels and were ready to start the hull. We always build our Hull molds in the deck molds for a perfect seam fit that way. Stay tune. Hope your enoying the process.




 
Coming along very nicely tony! Will the fiberglass dodger be removable or permanently attached to the boat?
 
Cruising right along. The deck has now been finished, permanant marking decals added tooling gelcoat applied and the skin layer of fiberglass done. Next we put a good build layer times 2 and core then we build the structural framing and add wheels and were ready to start the hull. We always build our Hull molds in the deck molds for a perfect seam fit that way. Stay tune. Hope your enoying the process.



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Hey guys.... I've been MIA after a lousy duck season. As an owner of an original Chuck Huff, I'm excited to see Tony undertaking this revival project. I love my Chuck Huff boat !

Tony, what are you talking about when you refer to " adding wheels" ?

I'd prefer a smooth front deck without the built in ridge but I understand why its there.
 
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Fred the wheels are for us to be able to move the molds around in the shop. and the front lip on the deck is crucial for blocking water along the spray dodger.
 
Tony, is the cockpit offset to the left or is it just the angle of the photo? If it is, what is the reason?
I'm loving the look of this boat, just wish I could hunt 2 plus a dog out of it.
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The Deck mold is complete. Popped it and all is good. Now the Hull Mold. Stay tuned. She looks a little dingy from the PVA. Its all wiped clean we have test fitted the hull now were going to layup the deck using the same thickness as we will be building the hull and deck combined to get the proper gap between the hull and deck molds then build the hull mold directly onto this deck for a nice clean tight fitting deck and hull joint. Stay tuned. Lots more to come.

 
Guys, as the owner of an original Chuck Huff, I'm here to tell you this boat rocks ! I can't wait to see the updated version that Tony is building.

I run mine with a 2 HP Yamaha outboard. I ran a 5 HP Johnson on it last year. The only reason I switched to the 2 HP was to eliminate the onboard fuel tank, which by the way stowed nicely under the rear deck. I just don't run that far to need one here in Indiana.

Looking good, Tony !
 
I absolutely love that your improving upon this neat little boat. I know a few guys who've had them & the bouncing in the floor (on their particular boats) always scared the heck out of me. I've read here that some boats had bounce & some didn't. Anyway, cool boat & can't wait to see how it performs when finished...
 
Time for another update. We are now building hull 1 of the Predator sneak boat and have the official capacity information.
15hp motor.
2 persons 290lbs.
450lbs persons motor and gear.

Now the real fun starts we have to hide 5.3 cu ft of floatation foam into this sneak box without absorbing all the usable space. so. We are coring the floor in half inch divincel awhole 4x8 sheet of it actually and then coring the deck in 2lb density foam strips that are 3"wide and 5/8'thick. This will allow us to add a quick 2 cubic feet of floatation without hardly noticing it. Then we fill the combing and the decoy boards to add another .7 cu ft of floatation for just a hair over 2.5 cu ft done. Now the other 2.5 cu ft. So we will place 2 poured rectangle blocks in both rear corners and fill the bow nose with foam. With .75 cu ft in each rear chamber and the remainder in the bow. Its always a challenge with these small boats to meet USCG standards and many fall way short here due to no room for its placement without buying the right core and foam materials to be able to hide it in the right ways out or site out of mind. Arthur Armstrong good for that back in the day. the also filled the decks underside with floatation, rarely do I see a boat done this way now days. But its a great place for it and it provides great uprighting and stability to a swamped boat. Anywa enough rambling. here is a photo before we fire up the resin pump and cover the core andget out the biaxial and finish this boat.


 
I absolutely love that your improving upon this neat little boat. I know a few guys who've had them & the bouncing in the floor (on their particular boats) always scared the heck out of me. I've read here that some boats had bounce & some didn't. Anyway, cool boat & can't wait to see how it performs when finished...
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Yes many issues reported from the older boats. With the new one and a fully cored floor and deck and a layup containing 1708 biaxial woven material this hull will be rock solid. You will be able to walk on the deck and never see the hull flex rest assured. And most likely will be lighter than previously bas due to not using all the resin rick chopper gun layup. Hope to have more info and maybe even a few photos of hull number one put together early next week. One other thing were doing is using a 1.5In thick coosa bluewater 26 composite transom core. Overkill. Yes sir. But you will never break it or wear it out.
 
Next step The most important part of the process properly locating the floatation. You will see here that we are just about ready to put the Predator together. one thing I can assure you is this hull isn't going to flex. We have built the hull using 1808 biaxial sandwiched with divinecell 1/2" core and used a 1 1/2" Coosa Bluewater 26 transom. You could hang a 90 on this hull transom and not worry about it. The deck is also completely cored using 2lb density foam sheets to provide amazing structure and balanced floatation as well. Here is the deck and hull now. We have fit the floatation pods and glassed them to the deck. Yes the deck Raising the foam off the hull provided better stability and level floatation and keeps it away from water.
Hope your enjoying the process. Next time you see the Predator it should be on a trailer.




 
Hey Tony -


Just a question as I don't know the answer. Are you required to fiberglass in the flotation blocks back near the stern?. Could you have built a "flotation holder" into the deck, left the foam "free standing" and not fiberglassed around it or is this against some regulation?


Mark W
 
Mark there is no laws on how we install the foam only that it is installed and wont come out. Glassing it in seals it from moisture, leaving it open would make it easy to be removed and allow it to absorb moisture. 2 things we dont want to happen.

With smaller crafts like this floatation becomes a challenge and we understand that. With that said, there is no way around it as a manufacturer. The repercussions of getting caught would cost us our business,
 
It Lives. Tomorrow we get some weights, see how strong the deck is, and start working on the interior and prepping it for hardware. Time to order some grass rails for this baby. The question is teak color or black? decisions decisions?

 
Can I be on the pro staff and get one for testing???? :)
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Carl I have a small problem, Just realized my 15hp motor is a long shaft. Free test rides for anyone close with a 15 or 25hp short shaft. LOL
 
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