Thanks Tom S and P Taylor for your responses on motor operations. I also have never liked the idea of choking an engine to stop its operation.
Tod, thanks asking the question.
Tod, thanks asking the question.
OK brain trust.... motor question
- Thread starter tod osier
- Start date
Mark W
Well-known member
Couple of things Tod that may or may not be of help
I got an app on my phone called "ethanol free". This way, wherever I am I can tap on the app and it tells me if I am near a place that sell etOH free gas. I am amazed at the number of places that do. Pretty handy app.
Second, I saw some new stuff, well new to me, at Home Depot the other day. It's gas in can. Suppose to last a long time in storage and suppose to be great for motors. Know nothing other than I saw it and read the little blurb at the store. It isn't cheap but if you don't need much, and you don't use the motor often, could be a potential solution.
Mark W
I got an app on my phone called "ethanol free". This way, wherever I am I can tap on the app and it tells me if I am near a place that sell etOH free gas. I am amazed at the number of places that do. Pretty handy app.
Second, I saw some new stuff, well new to me, at Home Depot the other day. It's gas in can. Suppose to last a long time in storage and suppose to be great for motors. Know nothing other than I saw it and read the little blurb at the store. It isn't cheap but if you don't need much, and you don't use the motor often, could be a potential solution.
Mark W
Yes, but we are in an area mandated by the EPA to use only oxygenated fuels (used to be MTBA, but now is E10), so that app will tell me that I have to drive out of the area to get real gas. I do grab real gas when out of state, but that is a PITA.
The home depot stuff is what I was talking about trying (Troy said he tried in his chainsaw). I think it will work great for my use if they have TC-W3, not just air cooled. I literally only need a quart a year and if it keeps better than e10 that is great.
Gary Tanner
Active member
Here is Nissan's manual: http://www.nissanmarine.com/.../Nis9-9C_15C_18D.pdf
On page 39, covering winter storage, it says to drain lines, BUT to fill the tank to guard against corrosion. Makes sense to me.
Gary
BTW, if you google "Nissan outboard proper winter storage", not only will you get the above link, but links to a zillion youtube videos that cover fogging, sta-bil, etc etc etc.
On page 39, covering winter storage, it says to drain lines, BUT to fill the tank to guard against corrosion. Makes sense to me.
Gary
BTW, if you google "Nissan outboard proper winter storage", not only will you get the above link, but links to a zillion youtube videos that cover fogging, sta-bil, etc etc etc.
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Kristan
Well-known member
You may have a problem that may be induced by vibration during the season. If the tank is made of a Polyethal or HDPE based plastic there is natural degradation of this type of plastic relative to vibration which is compounded by weather extremes that induce differentials in pressure. This constant vibration and pressure differential can produce stress cracks very rapidly. The tank in free state with just gas should last 10+ years.
What you may be experiencing is the damage is caused during the hunting season, fishing, and etc. When the motor is allowed to set in free state in the cold or the heat and allowed to expand and contract the stressed area is then splitting.
My humble opinion: Try to remove as much vibration from the motor as possible by adding 60 Shore A rubber sheet or some other material at the connecting point between the kicker motor to the kicker mount or plate. Or if possible stuff some rubber padding between the tank and frame to absorb some of the shock.
Regards,
Kristan
What you may be experiencing is the damage is caused during the hunting season, fishing, and etc. When the motor is allowed to set in free state in the cold or the heat and allowed to expand and contract the stressed area is then splitting.
My humble opinion: Try to remove as much vibration from the motor as possible by adding 60 Shore A rubber sheet or some other material at the connecting point between the kicker motor to the kicker mount or plate. Or if possible stuff some rubber padding between the tank and frame to absorb some of the shock.
Regards,
Kristan
Kristan
Well-known member
Not exactly but the main motor does push your boat through the water while your kicker just hangs there...Every wave you hit and vibration made from naturally driving you boat with your main motor will cause your other motor the kicker to be bumped and bounce. Also to mention any gas in the kicker becomes a volumetric hammer to put more stress on the on the plastic tank of your kicker...If through my assumption that the tank could be a polyethylene based plastic on the kicker the cracking could be caused by vibration. If the cracking comes from any localized area around a port such as the gas tank opening or near any radial or angular bends in the structure the main cause of the failure started due to vibrations to the motor, also known as creep or cold flow. It is a time dependent stress to the material, it takes repeated motion of this same stress over time to finally cause it to rupture. My opinion is that you may be perfectly fine with current gas level and even have the right setup of your pressure cap. The root cause is the natural rocking or bouncing that occurs to the kicker over time. You do not see this crack as soon as you change to a new fuel tank. It probably takes months of randomy running the boat, letting it sit and repeating the process. My recommendation is to reduce as much vibration or bouncing of your kicker to slow this process down. It is going to happen over time. This same thing occurs around the area of the cowling that latches to the main body of outboard motors overtime. I am sure you have seen that occur on a big outboard motor.
Regards
Kristan
Regards
Kristan