ok long liners I need some help

Tom Modin

Tom Modin

Well-known member
I am not waiting until the day before just the month before season starts to get some stuff to rig for long lines.

I have talked with one fella about them he gave me some pointers. Will be used in lakes up to 30ft in depth and smaller waters of depths of 6-10 but mud bottom. Dog will always be in use especially in shallow smaller waters.

Gear needed, set up ideas, do's and don'ts any and all information is appreciated.
 
Give Bob at Decoy Rigs a call at (219)659-8371. Bob not only has a complete line of decoy rigs/longlines, he is very knowledgeable about them and can answer most, if not all, questions that you may have.
I have bought several off of Bob, and I know Pat Gregory is a regular customer of Bob's as well.

Tim
 
I used Doctari Longlines for all of my gear. I felt the quality and pricing was very reasonable. I did not know about the othe company mentioned above, so be sure to check out both. By your location, I assume you won't be hunting tidal waters, which maybe makes things a bit easier.

I rig a dozen birds on a line. Basic setup for me is scope on the line, 2xs high water depth (I hunt tidal). I use old window sash weights. One at each end. They sometimes roll/drag a little, but it hasn't been a problem.

Each lines has a long line clip at both ends. This is for the sash weight. Each decoy gets about 1.5-2' of line tied directly to them and then a long line clip. I hunt with dogs as well and have found this depth works well. I generally place my decoys 6' apart in the longline. This also works out for me since my arm span is 6'6". I can clip one decoy, reach out the length of my arm span and that is where the next decoy goes.
 
i like making my own stuff so here is what i do:

decoy dropper: saltwater stainless swivel, 3ft tanglefree decoy cord(dog goes through as does an outboard), long line clip
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weight: old sash weight wit a loop of cord
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long line: (we usually hunt 3-20feet depending on tide, location ect) 75ft mainline with a carabineer at each end. there are two on each roll i have.
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it is very easy with two guys, to set out the guy on the tiller holds the maineline then the other guy sends the sash weight to the bottom gives a few feet extra then starts attaching decoys. depending on depth and how you want them set decides how close and how many there are. when the last deke is on attach the other sash and back up to straighten line and set the string where you want it. if there are no tides keep it taught if there are tides give the line some slack to rise and drop with the ebb and flow.
 
Chris is using the same setup that I do. I have a large air hose reel (harbor freight $40) mounted to the boat that has 800 feet of Doctari on it. I also use 5lb barbell weights from Walmart at each end. They do not rust for me but I hunt the Great Lakes so no salt added. They also do not roll around on me when I get lazy and just toss them on the floor of the boat.
 
I am not waiting until the day before just the month before season starts to get some stuff to rig for long lines.

I have talked with one fella about them he gave me some pointers. Will be used in lakes up to 30ft in depth and smaller waters of depths of 6-10 but mud bottom. Dog will always be in use especially in shallow smaller waters.

Gear needed, set up ideas, do's and don'ts any and all information is appreciated.
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My main thought is... just buy the components from a fishery supply place, don't mess with a reseller.

I have all my stuff with longline clips and lines separate, but I'd strongly consider if doing it again to have a setup where the decoys stay on the longlines full time in the big stand up leaf bags. I don't like the decoys tied on permanently (sans longline clips), I'd still go with longline clips to be able to adjust things and remove tangles in a big rig (like if your whole rig gets in one big knot, shouldn't happen- but sometimes shit happens). Use the big clips.

Tons of people use sash weights, but I like something with more holding power (we don't use just a chunk of steel to anchor the boat, why decoys?). I have a buddy that has some tiny danforth anchors that work great (I've never seen them in a store). I have lead mushroom anchors that I made (think lead pot mold with screw eye in it), but I've started buying up the little bruce anchors (horizon claw), the smallest size - you can get them for under $10 (west marine has them).
 
I have my longlines set up with only 6 or 7 per string that I keep permanantly cliped onto the mainline. They are stored in rubbemaid totes. However the mainline ends only a few feet from the first and last decoy. I then attach cheap home depot carabiners on each end. this way I can clip them together to make a 6, 12, or, 18 decoys per string. I then have 15' lengths of mainline on an extension cord spool to add on the ends depending on depth. I will hunt in areas anywhere from 4 to 30 feet. One spot one end of the string has no dropper and I need 3 on the other end. This setup works for me because I feel it is a nice compromise between the flexibility of attaching decoys every time without have to do it. I have a few buffleheads and goldeneyes that I keep loose to add here or there if I feel like it. I have ordered supplies from Doctari, and Memphis net and twine. I also use sash weights. I have used other anchors but I like them the best because you can drag them into place easily unlike other anchors that "grab" the bottom plus they were a buck a peice. By the way I usually put out 2 to 4 dozen decoys when hunting divers so that can be considered small by a lot of diver hunters.
 
As Tim said, I used Bob's products with great success. All my friends do as well. He's been at it many, many years. I've seen different lines, clips, no clips, they all work. My key suggestion is, if you're going to hunt big water, develop a repeatable process to deploy that you can execute in 15-20 minutes. And, lines are a big part of that. Hopefully not, but someday your safety might rely on it...

As far as what lines, I make decoys and leave the line making to the experts. So, I'll make some decoys, sell them, and purchase the lines...

Just my 2 cents... pg
 
I use line, swivels and snaps from Bob Metrich at Decoy Rigs to make my own lines. Bob's line doesn't fade, is the right stiffness (IMO), and sinks. I use brass or stainless swivels and snaps to avoid discloration on my decoys. I thread a swivel onto the mother line then tie my decoys directly to the mother line...fewer bits and pieces to catch and tangle, also easier on the hands in cold weather. Long drop lines help avoid getting the dog or the motor tangled, but doesn't eliminate the possibility...staying out of the decoys is the only way to guarantee not to get tangled. Short drop lines make deploying and recovering the decoys much easier. We use the stand-up leaf bags to store the lines and decoys when not in use.

We also use extensions that can be added on to each end of the long line when we hunt deep water.
 
As far as what lines, I make decoys and leave the line making to the experts. So, I'll make some decoys, sell them, and purchase the lines...

Just my 2 cents... pg
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Excellent suggestion Pat, leave the cutting of rope and tying of knots and whipping of ends to the "experts". I don't know what I was thinking doing the overly difficult and time-consuming job of rigging my decoys when I could have employed an expert to do it. And to think, how foolish I was to have a feeling of satisfaction sourcing the best materials and tying all those silly bowlines. Not anymore now that I know better. I'm buying my next duckboat from an expert, buying decoys from experts (of course they will only be rigged by experts), maybe I can get an expert to clean my gun too.

I'm hungry for a snack and rather than have a handmade venison landjaeger, I think I'll have a twinkie, which is made by an expert baker. Phew, life is sooo much easier now. :).

T
 
Avoid longline clips if you can, they are just a breeding ground for problems. There are a few ways to rig the dekes on the mainline and never take them off. That is much quicker, as one guy can do it-out of my sneakbox I run five or six ten bird lines alone. Just search out lou tisch and his information on rigging. I have done clips and just about every other method too, no clips and decoys permanently on the line is the way to go. Space them 6' for a 2' dropper, I would not do much longer than that.

Also, consider leaving the pooch @ home, deep water in winter is no place for a dog rescue. Just too dangerous if the dog swims anywhere near a longline rig. We take no dogs into lake erie. Good luck, let me know if you want more help.
 
We only use long lines in the ocean sea duck hunting. Droppers are 10" because of the tide. The main line and droppers are #120 tarred line. Get your tarred line from Memphis net and twine, get your clips from SNL Corp. in Sebastian FL. 1/2 the price of anywhere else for the same clips. I always send Gus for the birds, I wait until the bird drifts free of the rig . Memphis and the SNL Corp are commercial fishing supply houses, remember the Longlline was developed by commercial fishermen duck hunters have adapted it for their useage.
 
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As far as what lines, I make decoys and leave the line making to the experts. So, I'll make some decoys, sell them, and purchase the lines...

Just my 2 cents... pg
Click to expand...


Excellent suggestion Pat, leave the cutting of rope and tying of knots and whipping of ends to the "experts". I don't know what I was thinking doing the overly difficult and time-consuming job of rigging my decoys when I could have employed an expert to do it. And to think, how foolish I was to have a feeling of satisfaction sourcing the best materials and tying all those silly bowlines. Not anymore now that I know better. I'm buying my next duckboat from an expert, buying decoys from experts (of course they will only be rigged by experts), maybe I can get an expert to clean my gun too.

I'm hungry for a snack and rather than have a handmade venison landjaeger, I think I'll have a twinkie, which is made by an expert baker. Phew, life is sooo much easier now. :).

T
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Welcome back T....I missed you hahahahahahah
 
As far as what lines, I make decoys and leave the line making to the experts. So, I'll make some decoys, sell them, and purchase the lines...

Just my 2 cents... pg
Click to expand...


Excellent suggestion Pat, leave the cutting of rope and tying of knots and whipping of ends to the "experts". I don't know what I was thinking doing the overly difficult and time-consuming job of rigging my decoys when I could have employed an expert to do it. And to think, how foolish I was to have a feeling of satisfaction sourcing the best materials and tying all those silly bowlines. Not anymore now that I know better. I'm buying my next duckboat from an expert, buying decoys from experts (of course they will only be rigged by experts), maybe I can get an expert to clean my gun too.

I'm hungry for a snack and rather than have a handmade venison landjaeger, I think I'll have a twinkie, which is made by an expert baker. Phew, life is sooo much easier now. :).

T
Click to expand...



Welcome back T....I missed you hahahahahahah
Click to expand...


I've got some homemade longlines and a NY lifetime license, got any numbers for me along the South Shore?

T
 
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