Old Scull Boat, New project

[MikeF]

Bought one of these last fall from a guy that used it a lot to hunt Geese. He said it needed a lot of work. It doesnt really. The shell is plywood with taped seams. Everything is solid. Few cracks in the taped seams. One chipped and rotted piece in the stern. I was going to replace it, but the original company brand is on that piece of wood. I'll clean it up and use epoxy and sawdust to fill it in to save the brand. Now its time to start restoring it. Does anyone know what color it should be? It looks like at some point someone put a black membrane on the hull bottom. That has to go. Should I use Spar varnish and paint, or brushed on epoxy then pain to seal just the bottom? Does anyone know where to get a replacement boot, it is dry rotted. Paint, I really like Lous paints but the shipping is prohibitive. Recommendations that could be picked up locally? I have a Cabelas close by, and of course big box stores and some paint stores.

I was fortunate to get the sculling oar with it.

 

[Steve Sanford]

Good morning, Mike~


Nice vessel!


I have never used one - but restored this old one - a Joppa Flats Gunning Float - built by Pert Lowell in Massachusetts in the 1920s - several years ago. The owner wanted to match the original color - a Steel Gray - maybe from Interlux or Pettit?. The paint is glossy here - but I added flattening agent to get a semi-gloss on the final coat. The bottom is Gloss Black. This boat had been 'glassed. Since your boat is not - but has been painted - I would just sand carefully down to 100-grit, then paint 3 coats on - the first probably thinned a bit.







Parkers Coatings in Green Bay, WI sells a Bay Gray that may work for you - but it is flat.



BTW: Note the well near the bow for the lead ballast. Does your boat have any ballast up forward? I know some sculls have moveable ballast systems with lines and pulleys.







This sculling port does not use a "boot" per se - more just a lining of oiled leather to prevent chafe and keep things quiet. The plug is carved softwood. You could probably fashion a boot from heavy inner tube.




All the best,


SJS

 

[MikeF]

Thankyou Steve!
I will post some pictures as I go.
It doesnt have ballast per se. The gentleman I bought it from used an electric motor to move up and down the river then put it in the bow when he sculled. The Battery box he made is in the bow. I like the leather boot idea.
I watched this boat for a couple weeks when it was advertised. I thought it was a home-built and wasnt interested. He dropped the price and I looked again and realized it was a factory boat. He kept it inside and dry.
Everyone that has seen it thinks its great. Ive had one person offer to buy it because he wants to hang it as is in his Barn/Man Cave. I think it needs to hunt again though.

 

[MikeF]

 

[MikeF]

Started stripping it last night. Very impressed with how solid it is. I will strip it, replace the fiberglass seams and paint it. The inside I will only be painting. The transom needs some wood repair.

The port for the oar is brass, lined with leather. It will need a boot if anyone knows where to get one.

All of the original fasteners are nails.

 

[Steve Sanford]

Good morning, Mike~


Nice work!


I am wondering if you need to replace the 'glass tape. Your photos show it to be fairly sound. If it is well-stuck to the hull, I would be tempted to reinforce it with another layer. You could use another layer of tape - maybe an inch wider - or just make your own "tape" out of cloth (7.5 ounce) by cutting it carefully into strips. I would also mask the area meticulously so that you could cut (utility knife with a new blade) ragged edges right to the tapeline when the epoxy is in the "green stage" - barely tacky but not yet fully cured. This approach would minimize sanding and fairing.


All the best,


SJS

 

[bob welsh]

These may be the plans for the boat. I have detailed building instructions that were provided.

 

[Dave Diefenderfer]

I have been real happy with Duralux Marine paint from Home Depot. You need to order it, but it ships free for around $50 per gallon. I have only used Dead Grass Green, but would imagine the open water grey is same quality.

 

[MikeF]

Bob, Id love to get copy of those plans!

Dave, thanks for the tip on the paint. That might work.

Steve, I'll strip the tape where it sits in the water, and the stern (Its all cracked). But the rest I will just refresh. The bottom and about 2" up has been flex sealed. Only way to get it off is heat and scrape. Easiest to just replace the tape. Makes more work for me, but maybe it saved the boat? I did find another small area of rot in the bow, but it will be an easy fix. I have penetrating epoxy ordered as well as 2" tape.

 

[bob welsh]

i can send them to you
message me your contact info

 

[MikeF]

 

[MikeF]

Havent posted pictures like I planned. I ended up stripping the glass tape off, and replacing it. Double layer on the waterline seam since it was cracked on both sides. 2" and then 3". Painted alll of the wood with penetrating epoxy before re-painting. Repainted with 2 coats of enamel that was recommended on here. I know its glossy, but I thinnk nit will bend fine with the water. If not, a little spray paint will tone it down. I wanted the old plywood to show through the paint and thats why I used the epoxy to get deep into the cracks. There was some rot on the stern and a little at the bow. I didnt want to replace the wood. Especially the stern since it has the factory brand in it. I rebuilt those areas with epoxy peanut butter. The inside I stripped and painted. Someone had glued or refoamed the ribs in. It looks like gorilla glue. I left it alone and painted ebverything the same as the exterior. Its wired for an electric motor, which will make it easier to get to where I want to scull. The battery and motor will make good ballast. I also put the floor back in and it has a 1/2" neoprene floor pad for comfort. I like how it turned out, and Ill post a couple more pictures when I get it out. I havent learned to scull it yet, so probably not going to hunt with it this year.

 

[Troy Nicolls]

Nice find! I'd love to restore an old original alviso. I built one about 10 years ago from the same plans Bob pictured, however I modified them a bit I think to shorten... and build sealed stitch and glue. Very durable boat. Sculled many, many ducks with my modified alviso.