Opinions of self-blueing gun products

Kurt Hendricks

Kurt Hendricks

Member
I have an A-5 that has seen hard use since my dad bought it in 1958. The current barrel has lost some of it's blueing near the end of the barrel and near the forearm grip where the barrel slides.
What are the opinions of a good self blueing kit? I am not going to send or take the gun to have it re-blued entirely as it doesn't need it and that would be expensive. Besides...I like the look it has now. Even if I has to reapply over the course of time it is better than it rusting every time out.
Thanks
Kurt
 
Birchwood-casey perma blue works - it will have a slightly greyer look than the original - but its good for patching the finish- i have used it on barrels that I was not going to get done for a while

this one looks good- i have been going to try it but haven't yet

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/liquid-cold-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue--prod1072.aspx

no cold blue will have the depth of a good slow rust blue job, but of course - cold blue also is faster, easier and cheaper
 
Good winter project. I've used brownells and a few others that are good to touch up wear spots. They will wear easily again. Remember to clean it well...
 
I inherited a Mossberg bolt action 12g from a dear friend and it is BEAT up. I finally freed the action and have it totally disassembled. I've been dealing with the rust in stages and I'm probably another few hours away from bluing it, but I've been concerned about it because I've never done it. I'm not looking for a professional restoration. I'm looking to bring the gun back to functioning, safe condition as homage to my friend. While the directions on that Brownell's product says that it "goes through the rust" but I'm guessing that getting the barrel as smooth and rust free as possible is best, right, prior to bluing? I'll read the directions more closely but what's the process? Just wipe it on, let it sit, then wipe it off?
Pics to follow, thanks.
 
Paul Mc said:
I inherited a Mossberg bolt action 12g from a dear friend and it is BEAT up. I finally freed the action and have it totally disassembled. I've been dealing with the rust in stages and I'm probably another few hours away from bluing it, but I've been concerned about it because I've never done it. I'm not looking for a professional restoration. I'm looking to bring the gun back to functioning, safe condition as homage to my friend. While the directions on that Brownell's product says that it "goes through the rust" but I'm guessing that getting the barrel as smooth and rust free as possible is best, right, prior to bluing? I'll read the directions more closely but what's the process? Just wipe it on, let it sit, then wipe it off?
Pics to follow, thanks.
Click to expand...

get the rust off, and i would still degrease the metal, actone or even rubbing alcohol will do it, and a little light clean up with sandpaper, down to 320/360 is normally enough, no finer than 400

test which ever product you use in a area that will be covered. most you can wipe on in long smooth strokes. i have seen some that get a purplish cast if you try to rub it on too much.
 
Kurt Hendricks said:
I have an A-5 that has seen hard use since my dad bought it in 1958. The current barrel has lost some of it's blueing near the end of the barrel and near the forearm grip where the barrel slides.
What are the opinions of a good self blueing kit? I am not going to send or take the gun to have it re-blued entirely as it doesn't need it and that would be expensive. Besides...I like the look it has now. Even if I has to reapply over the course of time it is better than it rusting every time out.
Thanks
Kurt
Click to expand...

I'd try the Brownell Oxpho-Blue Professional Grade Cold Blue. There is some magic and quirky parts to doing it, but it does work well. Read some tutorials online or watch a couple videos. I've tried a few products in the past and the oxpho gives the best color and quality finish. When I've done it and had really good luck, I've worked on a lightly oiled surface and used a rag to apply, but then buffed off with a very fine scotch brite pad (finest the box store has - gray is the color I used). You put it on and buff it off. Eventually it gets there. When you start little happens, but then once it works, it gets better and better. I've had good luck blending into what was there this way.
 
...I'd recommend Brownells products...they have good tech support...you might want to try the bluing on a piece of scrap steel first, just to iron out any bugs in the process...
 
Since reading this post I've ordered the Brownell's product, watched a few videos and gotten my project gun (inherited bolt action 12g Mossberg) down to bare metal with the wire wheel on my bench grinder. It was completely red with rust on every inch of the barrel and action. I'm satisfied that it is intact and safe, but my concern is the INTERIOR of the barrel. I figured that I'd run a wire brush on the end of a rod through it a bunch of times then oil it really well; but is there another way of getting the INSIDE of a barrel all shiny and new? I was thinking about hooking up the rod to a screw gun and going to town on it but........
Also, it sounds like warm bluing has better results than cold bluing. If so, is there a down side to just leaning the barrel on the wall next to the wood stove while I'm prepping the materials? Or is that more technical than it seems?
 
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Paul Mc said:
Since reading this post I've ordered the Brownell's product, watched a few videos and gotten my project gun (inherited bolt action 12g Mossberg) down to bare metal with the wire wheel on my bench grinder. It was completely red with rust on every inch of the barrel and action. I'm satisfied that it is intact and safe, but my concern is the INTERIOR of the barrel. I figured that I'd run a wire brush on the end of a rod through it a bunch of times then oil it really well; but is there another way of getting the INSIDE of a barrel all shiny and new? I was thinking about hooking up the rod to a screw gun and going to town on it but........
Also, it sounds like warm bluing has better results than cold bluing. If so, is there a down side to just leaning the barrel on the wall next to the wood stove while I'm prepping the materials? Or is that more technical than it seems?
Click to expand...

the best way to clean a bore like that is a Frontier pad

http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

i use them wraped around a bronze brush on a cleaning rod with the handel removed - I chuck that in a cordless drill

BTW - these things are great for the outside as well - they remove rust and crud without damaging bluing or case color


here are before and after pictures of the lock from a grade 2 Parker 10 bore. the whole gun was covered in fine rust when it arrived, after some time and elbow grease - i had locks showing a lot of original case colors and with undamaged engraving
first pic is as found on the left - first pass at cleaning on the right

second pic is cleaned locks inside and out







View attachment DSC_0773.JPGView attachment DSC_0786 edit.jpg
 
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