Painting vermiculation on a broadbill?

[John Fraser]

I just posted a picture of my pine broadbill drake on the August workbench thread. I've never spent the time to paint real vermiculation on the backs of my other broadbill that I've repainted because they were rough "working blocks". I want to do a nice job painting this bird so I'm looking for some advice on how to paint it. Should the base coat be black or white? Then how do I paint those fine markings? I've tried combing before, but it didn't come out good.

I plan on painting with exterior latex, as I've got full cans of black and white. I also have a broadbill drake mount that I can use for reference.

 

[Brandon Yuchasz]

John,
I know of three ways to do it on decoys.

1. Combing, paint black as the base coat and let it dry. paint white over top and comb through it while wet to show the black. It works best if the base coat is hard like an enamel. I use alkyd tube oils.

2. Texture the bird with a sponge and texture past. After its dry paint the back white and let it dry. Then dry brush black onto the peaks of the texture.

3. Hand vermiculation with a brush one tick at a time. (hardest)

 

[John Fraser]

Thanks Brandon. If I try option #3 hand vermiculation, should I use white or black as a base coat?

 

[P. Revicki]

Another way is by using textureing paste mixed with white paint. Put the mixture on and then comb the back. After it has dried paint the back black and when the black is dried sand the back. Only the top of the combing will be white. I would practice on a board first.

 

[Brandon Yuchasz]

John, I would base in white and then tick in black. That said I think its the hardest option.

 

[John Fraser]

What type of texturing paste do you recommend? Do you texture the whole bird or just where the vermiculation is on the wings?

 

[Steve Sanford]

John~

I'm in the Stippling School - using the end of a very dry bristle brush (usually a "flat" a half or 3/4" wide) to apply black then white over a medium grey base coat.

Here's one on a pine bird and a foamer:

Here it is on a Model 72 Herters - it takes just a few seconds per bird - and thus meets my test for gunning-style paint:

That said, Pete Revicki's combed backs (with heavy gesso/pastes) are just PERFECT. Here is a picture I took of one of Pete's when I first saw it in 2011 - because I was (am still am) awed by the effect :

One subtlety with any approach is to grade it a bit darker toward the aft end.

Finally, I agree completely with Brandon that traditional combing only works well if the base coat is really hard.

Hope this helps,

SJS

 

[george w]

base and comb a light gray, then when dry, apply a black with a dry fan brush-going in one direction. Actually, that doesn't matter as much as the angle of the brush--I usually use a 1" fan and keep most of the paint on my shorts. Smyser does white on black also, but i prefer the black on light gray.
Using Golden Matte from jar-Gray lidGood dense material that will comb!

 

[Vince Pagliaroli]

I second Mr. Revicki, it's easy, looks good and lasts, but it's not the only way I impart vermiculation. Try as many ways as possible, every decoy is different. Painting each line is a huge pain, but ya gotta do it at least once...

 

[Lou Tisch]

John,
Lot of good info here.
If you are interested, I have a tutorial on painting a Pintail on my website: www.lockstockbarrell.com
I address the issue of vermiculation and combing in there....pdf file.
The more reference the better.
Lou

 

[Steve Sanford]

Good morning, Lou~

Your Pintail Painting tutorial was excellent! I should have read it a long time ago. You covered every step very nicely - and I certainly picked up a few ideas.

All the best,

SJS

 

[P. Revicki]

If there is a art store around they should have goldens or you could order traditions. Most of the time I will texture the whole bird, but the back is done as one step. The rest of the decoy just gets stippled. if you decide to go this root send me a pm with your number and I can explain better (not very good at explaining it in words). Steve me and Chris are working on your BB.
Pete

 

[Vince Pagliaroli]

John - I'd suggest getting a copy of Waterfowl Painting Blue Ribbon Techniques by William Veasey. It coves just about everything you need or gunning decoys and more. It's a sound investment that you will put to good use.

 

[RLLigman]

I'll second Vince's suggestion: One of the best working decoy paint how-to guides in available.

 

[Matt DeFore]

I like to simply comb a thick black basecoat, and then just take my time drybrushing with white over the top of the ridges.

 

[Tom Modin]

I have painted vermic trying all the mentioned methods with different successes. With exterior latex paint I believe the stipple method may be your best bet. Look at a Pat Gregory tutorial using a chip brush that is trimmed down.

 

[John Fraser]

Thanks for all the input! I've read all your suggestions a few times. This bird is for someone else, so I'm a little nervous to try the texturing.

However I'll stop at the art store tomorrow and see if they have any of the texturing paste. If so, I'll practice on a board first. I do have some white gesso, if I mix it with the paste will it be hard enough for the base coat? Then I'd use the black latex over that.

If it doesn't work out on the board I'll stipple this bird and try texturing on some of my own birds.

 

[John Fraser]

I finally finished the bird. I used modelling paste for the vermiculation on the back and stippling on the rest of the feathers.

I went with a more subtle (and easier) irridescent green and brown in the area of the wingtips (primaries, secondaries, etc.) above the tail.

His first swim outside of the kitchen sink.

Here's the decoy that I got this pattern from:

Pretty cool "suk-duck" design on that bird: