Vince Pagliaroli
Well-known member
george w said:
And a very good Industrial Strength Mask/Respirator, and proper ventilation in yer work area.
Cork dust (all kinds), and varnish fumes are nothing to mess around with.
VP
Repairing cork decoys
- Thread starter Lou Ureneck
- Start date
And a very good Industrial Strength Mask/Respirator, and proper ventilation in yer work area.
Cork dust (all kinds), and varnish fumes are nothing to mess around with.
VP
Lou Ureneck
Member
okay, will do.
Lou Ureneck
Member
Here are photos of the ones that are most beat up ...
View attachment IMG_1960.JPGView attachment IMG_1962.JPG
View attachment IMG_1961.JPG
View attachment IMG_1960.JPGView attachment IMG_1962.JPG
View attachment IMG_1961.JPG
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Lou~
On birds like that - with sections lost - I would slice off the area to get a flat mating surface for new cork. I would epoxy (epoxy thickened with fairing compound) a new oversize slab in place. Once the epoxy is cured (overnight), I would carefully shape the body with a medium rasp and coarse (60-grit) paper. Once shaped, I would finish sand everything with 80-grit. Then - the soaking coat of Spar Varnish.
Need any cork?
SJS
On birds like that - with sections lost - I would slice off the area to get a flat mating surface for new cork. I would epoxy (epoxy thickened with fairing compound) a new oversize slab in place. Once the epoxy is cured (overnight), I would carefully shape the body with a medium rasp and coarse (60-grit) paper. Once shaped, I would finish sand everything with 80-grit. Then - the soaking coat of Spar Varnish.
Need any cork?
SJS
Lou
I've got a cork brick ready to drop off at the post office tomorrow.
Eric
I've got a cork brick ready to drop off at the post office tomorrow.
Eric
Lou Ureneck
Member
thanks!
Lou Ureneck
Member
Steve, Yes, Eric from the forum is sending a block tomorrow. I've learned a lot from these exchanges and the forum. I can see now that 's it's not enough to have a spread of decoys, boat, dog and shotgun. I need a workshop ... Lou
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Mike~
I cannot provide any real technical argument for traditional varnish over polyurethane just my observations. I have read numerous comparisons over the years - and many seem to contradict each other.
I lean toward spar varnishes because I want the initial coat to seep into and bind with the wood or cork fibers. Spar varnishes typically include linseed oil and tung oil and perform to my expectations. I use it as a sealing base under boat woodwork beforew painting - unless I am using epoxy as the primary sealer.
My experience with urethanes is that they tend to form a harder shell over the substrate, but do not bind as well. I use polyurethane on my Pine floors in our house and am happy with its performance there.
As always, I defer to anyone with more experience or expertise and am willing to learn new stuff.
All the best,
SJS
I cannot provide any real technical argument for traditional varnish over polyurethane just my observations. I have read numerous comparisons over the years - and many seem to contradict each other.
I lean toward spar varnishes because I want the initial coat to seep into and bind with the wood or cork fibers. Spar varnishes typically include linseed oil and tung oil and perform to my expectations. I use it as a sealing base under boat woodwork beforew painting - unless I am using epoxy as the primary sealer.
My experience with urethanes is that they tend to form a harder shell over the substrate, but do not bind as well. I use polyurethane on my Pine floors in our house and am happy with its performance there.
As always, I defer to anyone with more experience or expertise and am willing to learn new stuff.
All the best,
SJS
IF you can find an old hardware store that might have Val-oil, snatch it up immediately, make a slurry with that and the cork dust, and build and fill with that!
Betting all of us old geezers here will tell you that THAT WAS THE IT way to go when working with black cork.
As far as a 3work preference, work outdoors, using a big tarp to catch what you grind or rasp. Easy way to save it.
Definitely use Rooster's method on joining the big pieces.. I almost suggested grinding that really beat one up to use as filler, BUT on second thought, you can always save with butt joints and some judiciously applied dowels for stability.
Looks like you have a fun time on your hands. Best to leave until after season, though. You might find this repair stuff becomes rather addictive!!!
Betting all of us old geezers here will tell you that THAT WAS THE IT way to go when working with black cork.
As far as a 3work preference, work outdoors, using a big tarp to catch what you grind or rasp. Easy way to save it.
Definitely use Rooster's method on joining the big pieces.. I almost suggested grinding that really beat one up to use as filler, BUT on second thought, you can always save with butt joints and some judiciously applied dowels for stability.
Looks like you have a fun time on your hands. Best to leave until after season, though. You might find this repair stuff becomes rather addictive!!!
Lou Ureneck
Member
Thanks!
Lou Ureneck
Member
Eric, I just received the cork you sent along. Many thanks! I'm going to have some fun! Lou
Lou
Good luck with the repairs. Let us know how it goes.
Eric
Good luck with the repairs. Let us know how it goes.
Eric
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, Lou~
Just an afterthought....
When epoxying on repair slabs, I typically use duct tape to "clamp" it in place - no need for mechanical clamps and high pressure.
All the best,
SJS
Just an afterthought....
When epoxying on repair slabs, I typically use duct tape to "clamp" it in place - no need for mechanical clamps and high pressure.
All the best,
SJS
Lou Ureneck
Member
I will do that ... and I've begun looking for a new house that would provide me with a workshop. The next duck hunting season may cost me in excess of several hundred thousand dollars. Ah, the life of a duck hunter.