I recently purchased a Rickshaw mud motor for my Momarsh Fatboy. There were some issues with the motor when I received it with broken parts. I contacted Rick Willis of Rickshaw Motors with my findings. I told Rick I did not want to return the motor and wait for another and that I would be happy to keep the motor if I could get replacements for the broken parts. He was very easy to work with even asking if I would offer suggestions for improving his packaging and shipping methods. I received my replacement parts Thursday night and had the motor repaired last night. Today was the first chance I had to put it to the test. I'm sure there are others out there on sneak boats but I have not found any on Momarsh products so I thought I'd give a little report based on my setup.
This is how it comes out of the box.
The only thing to assemble is the handle assembly and mount the motor receiver to the transom of your boat. There are two clamps to tighten once you have the handle adjusted to your liking.
The only thing you ever have to adjust is the throttle cable and it's as simple as this.
Here is a shot of the gear housing/shaft sleeve assembly. The casting has been thought out with durability as well as cost in mind. You'll notice there are 4 gussets placed 90 degrees about and large radii are used on the gear housing front plate. This could have been designed using 3 gussets spaced 120 degrees apart that may have saved a little on mold cost as well as using fewer button head caps screws securing the the front plate to the gear housing body. The shaft sleeve is a composite sleeve epoxied into the gear housing front plate. This design is similar to what Minnkota uses on it's trolling motors again adding durability to the motor.
The skeg appears to be a waterjet cut part and tig welded to a aluminum sleeve again epoxied to the shaft sleeve. Skeg and welds are very smooth with no sharp edges eliminating any edges that would catch weeds.
The motor has a primer bulb like most motors today but whenh I went to start the motor I forgot about the primer bulb. After filling the tank I engaged the choke pulled the rope three times and it fired right up. If I had thought about the primer bulb I believe the motor would have started with one or two pulls of the rope. Every time I pulled the rope after the initial start the motor started with one pull of the rope. So far I am very impressed with this motor. I don't have a hand held GPS but I imagine I was going around 6 maybe 7 miles per hour. Twice as fast as a quick paced walk which is all I require. The motor was surprising quiet with very little hum fro the gear box. There was no uncomfortable vibration while operating the motor. I'd call this one a winner. The one thing I am going to do is have another tramsom mount pin fabricated that will protrude out the bottom of the receiver where I can cross drill and add a washer and snap pin. When I got into shallow water where I had to use leverage I almost forced the pin out of the receiver. If I hadn't been paying attention I would have lost the motor in the river. We all know how you get ribbed for dropping a motor to the bottom of the river around here. I believe I have the perfect marsh boat for my style hunting and can't wait for opening morning next weekend.
Movie
http://s147.photobucket.com/...current=DSCN0877.flv
Take care,
Ed L.
[/url]
This is how it comes out of the box.
The only thing to assemble is the handle assembly and mount the motor receiver to the transom of your boat. There are two clamps to tighten once you have the handle adjusted to your liking.
The only thing you ever have to adjust is the throttle cable and it's as simple as this.
Here is a shot of the gear housing/shaft sleeve assembly. The casting has been thought out with durability as well as cost in mind. You'll notice there are 4 gussets placed 90 degrees about and large radii are used on the gear housing front plate. This could have been designed using 3 gussets spaced 120 degrees apart that may have saved a little on mold cost as well as using fewer button head caps screws securing the the front plate to the gear housing body. The shaft sleeve is a composite sleeve epoxied into the gear housing front plate. This design is similar to what Minnkota uses on it's trolling motors again adding durability to the motor.
The skeg appears to be a waterjet cut part and tig welded to a aluminum sleeve again epoxied to the shaft sleeve. Skeg and welds are very smooth with no sharp edges eliminating any edges that would catch weeds.
The motor has a primer bulb like most motors today but whenh I went to start the motor I forgot about the primer bulb. After filling the tank I engaged the choke pulled the rope three times and it fired right up. If I had thought about the primer bulb I believe the motor would have started with one or two pulls of the rope. Every time I pulled the rope after the initial start the motor started with one pull of the rope. So far I am very impressed with this motor. I don't have a hand held GPS but I imagine I was going around 6 maybe 7 miles per hour. Twice as fast as a quick paced walk which is all I require. The motor was surprising quiet with very little hum fro the gear box. There was no uncomfortable vibration while operating the motor. I'd call this one a winner. The one thing I am going to do is have another tramsom mount pin fabricated that will protrude out the bottom of the receiver where I can cross drill and add a washer and snap pin. When I got into shallow water where I had to use leverage I almost forced the pin out of the receiver. If I hadn't been paying attention I would have lost the motor in the river. We all know how you get ribbed for dropping a motor to the bottom of the river around here. I believe I have the perfect marsh boat for my style hunting and can't wait for opening morning next weekend.
Movie
http://s147.photobucket.com/...current=DSCN0877.flv
Take care,
Ed L.
[/url]
Last edited:
