Runabout conversion hull?

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Robby Baumgartner

New member
I am planning a runabout conversion to a sneak box style boat, and was looking for advice on hulls to start with. I will be using them for open water diver hunting on inland lakes. I have access to a couple of 18 ft. runabout hulls that will probably both end up as duck boat conversions, but would like to know the pros and cons of them both. The first one is flat in the back and tapers to a deep V in the front. The second one has a slight V at the back and tapers to more of a V in the front.
Also, how high above the waterline do I need to cut off the sides of the hull for safety in medium sized inland lakes?
Thanks
Robby
 
Post up some pictures Robby. This has been done before. The highth above the water line does not have to be too high if it is decked over. The hardest part is getting the proper cut line.
 
First hull I already started to strip. It is a Larson.
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Best of luck on putting some pretty useless hulls (in my H.O.) to a noble use. I have access to several of those pigs and will watch your progress closely. Thanks for sharing and sincerly the best of good luck!
 
You have a good start on the Larson. Cut off the rear end about the same height as the rest of the hull. Run some caulking around the board in the back just in case water could come in and take it to water nearby. Load it with weight equal to you, dog, decoys, etc. This is a judgment call on your part. Also try to figure out how much the decking will weigh. The water should be calm doesn't have to be deep. When it is floating you will be able to mark a line around the boat with a maject marker the same height all the way around the boat. Bring a level to make sure the boat is level port to starboard.

The decking you put on the boat flat or slightly curved will determine where you want the line. Again a judgment call. The more convex the deck the lower to the water line. ( Once you have a line around the boat you can always change it.) When weighting the hull put the weight near where it will be( thinking about a motor and people)

When this is done bring it home and cut to the line. Then the fun part building the lay out.
 
Thanks for the info. I was also wondering what advantages or disadvantages I will have in any of the hulls? The Larson is flat in the back, the Thompson and Lund have a V in the back, and the Lund almost seams to have a little bit of a tri-hull appearance.
Thanks,
Robby
 
Rob,
Make sure if you use one of the inboard/outboard hulls that you tie the transom into the structure of the hull and don't just plug the opening where the lower unit came through as those transoms aren't made to be as strong as the transom for an outboard (been there done that with disastrous results). The weight for the I/O's is carried mostly by the engine logs affixed to the bottom of the hull and not by the transom alone as it is done with outboards. Try bonding in a couple of L shaped thingys to the sides and transom. You really can't make those areas to strong in an I/O conversion After that then make your transom cut out to the height you desire.

My favorite hunting rig (the Marsh Pig ) was made form an old pleasure boat. The transom went bad because I didn't properly strengthen it and only plugged the hole where theI/O had been. Take more time than you think you'll need and more care than you think is necesssary. In so doing you will build a boat that will last longer and perform better. I'd probably contact Lou about what kind of paint to use and how to apply it.

This will be a project you will curse and praise.

Make sure to spend some money on the trailer as loading a boat on a crappy trailer after spending a day hunting is a type of frustration that none of us need.

Remember these type boats were built to zip around the lake towing water skiers and hauling beer and sanwiches and not for braving the elements we typically want to have when we are after "Dem Loosive Waterfowl".
MO,
Harry
 
I was going to say the same thing as Wispete

Re: hull shape.

A vee carried to the stern will drive through "chop" with the least pounding but needs
more power to plane. A flat bottom gets up & stays on plane with least power and rolls less at rest.

For inland lakes I'd go with the flattest bottom.
 
Thanks for all the advice. What kind of wood should I use for the deck (will this stuff work? http://www.morelandcompany.com/ultraplyXLbrochure.pdf )? Also, what should
I use for the cross braces under the deck?
Thanks again for all the help?
 

I know it's been a while, but I finaly got the Larson ready to hunt this year. Took a little longer than expected (the whole time and money thing).[inline]
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Robby~

Here are your pics. I will let you provide the narrative.

Your little gunning partner looks like a sharp one!


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All the best,

SJS
 
Thanks Steve. I couldn't figure out how to post the pics.
Anyway, this is the Larson that I was asking about in 2009 I finally got to spend some time working on it this summer. That first picture was on the first hunt. I Had to take Lydia on the first hunt after she spent so much time helping me with it.
 
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