Capt Rich Geminski
Well-known member
I used a ball peen hammer and heated with a hand held torch to flair the end...
scuppers
- Thread starter joseph van wie
- Start date
No problem. You don't really need to flare it, just cut it a bit long (1/8" or 3/16") and then bed in 5200. Wipe up the 5200 with a rag soaked in mineral spirits (wear gloves) and leave just a bead around the part of the tube that isn't flared. Flaring would probably be better, but I wouldn't have any worry about the unflared tube if it is in a place where it isn't going to get beat on or abused.
joseph van wie
Active member
Tod, Thanks for your help, I have been searching for the tubes & tool all morning & just placed a order for both tubes & flaring tool for $55.00 for all 3 items. Thanks again for all your & everybody else's help. Joe
John Canavari
Member
West Marine can order them
Looks like there are some claims of uv degredation of 4200/5200 and streaking, hence 3m 4000UV for pretty topsides where streaks might matter, but I'd still use 5200 on this application, since in essence it is below waterline - no way I'd use silicone on a transom at or near the waterline, but as Rick says... Your call..
Surely you can accept that they are scuppers and are meant for water to flow through and as such they are often at or below waterline.
You are absolutely right on the placement of scuppers in relation to the waterline, but on the Lunds with wells I've seen the wells are often wet and are often soaked most of the day, both the inside and outside. This isn't a knock on the Lunds, the wells are doing their job perfectly keeping water out of the boat proper. The scuppers are above waterline at rest in dead flat water, but not with waves or motoring or backing. Stopping quickly with the low transom on the Lunds I've been in often ended with the water over the transom and filling the well (that would be the well doing its job perfectly). Wells also tend to sit with water in them for days at a time on a trailer until the water that is below the low point of the scupper evaporates - again, necessitating an at or below the waterline quality seal.
T
Tod,
That is one of my pet peeves about the factory tin boat I have for fishing (not a Lund). The drain tubes for the splash well sit about 3/4 inch above the lowest point in the well. What water stays there will collect all the dirt and crap blowing around in the air. The dirt then tends to hold the moisture for an even longer period of time. Makes for a dirty slimy mess if not kept clean. Guess that means I must use my boat more often to keep it cleaned out, ya that's the ticket.
Obviously you know that they do it because you can't get the crimp tool in there or a flanged tube for that matter to get it perfectly flush with the bottom, but it is an annoyance I agree. Hard to sponge out on a lot of boats too because of the cables and fuel lines in there. Sitting with water through hot sun and then cool nights and freeze thaw cycles really tests the seal on the scuppers AND the consequence of the leak is a wet transom. Somethign to really guard against and to use only the best materials imo.
It is little things like that that is great about building your own boat that you can fix. The splashwell on my snowgoose is drained by a single drain through the transom and I formed the well in such a way (put a slight belly in the center of it) that the water drains to one point and the nice and big drain hole is located flush with the bottom of the well. The well won't hold a single teaspoon of water.
Tod,
Depending on the actual design, the drain tube could be installed before installing the splash well. While one might not get it truly flush with the well, it could be a lot closer to flush. Course that would take preplanning.
Depending on the actual design, the drain tube could be installed before installing the splash well. While one might not get it truly flush with the well, it could be a lot closer to flush. Course that would take preplanning.