Seeking Recomendations for Fordom Burrs

Scott Farris

Scott Farris

Well-known member
Barb is giving me a 1/6 HP Fordom and I'm not sure what basic selection of Burrs I NEED. I will be using it for primarily carving decoys. Decoys will be made from pretty much anything. I am presently working in Basswood, cedar, & Black cork. I even have two 4" sheets of Wiley cork when I'm ready to hack it up.

Since the Burrs run roughly $20 a pop I'm hoping to start with a small basic selection. So:

What make, Which shapes and sizes, What coarseness for which material?

I know from previous reading that I should have a spare shaft and I will get some of their lubricant for the shaft. Anything else? I have a leather apron, respirator and will use a glove on my hand holding the part. Any other tips?

Thanks guys,
Scott

 
If I remember way back to when I actually carved decoys. For heads, I can do it all with a x-mas tree and a knife to cut in the bill. Black would be my choice, but I don't think they are made anymore. I have a red one that I use most of the time.

If you are shaping black cork a sureform works good. I do use a 1 1/2" x 3" long silver drum that I use if I want to go fast adn make a big mess.
 
The silver cone shaped and cylinder shaped ones are all you need. I do 99% of my work with them and a cylinder sander.

Black burs are too aggressive, eat through wood and gloves to fast!

Red are not bad either.
 
My favorite is a 3/4" dia cylinder black with a 1/4" shank. I gave my cone to Rutgers.I have a gold colored thing that is about 2" long and 3/8 or so dia that looks like metal dust glued to a shaft..it isn't but that's the best I can describe it...it takes wood and meat off quick. A sanding drum is nice too.
 
Call the Duckblind...

When I was shopping for a grinder, Diane said that Willy has a huge assortment of burs in the shop, but only really uses 3...that is the 3 they recomend to people just starting to power carve. They sold me a extra course (orange) cone, course (green) 1/2" cylinder, and a 1/4 fine (yellow) ball nosed cylinder. It was a great starting point, I haven't quite got used to the extra course bit, but I do like that cone shape. The fine is a bit slow. If I were to buy two more today, I would get a 3/4 ball nose cylinder, and another cone, both in green.

Get yourself a padded sander too, I use that almost as much as the burs.

BTW Willy was running a sale on in stock saber tooth bits

Chuck
 
i use two bits, an orange bullet headed cylinder, for bodies, and an orange christmas tree, aka cone, for heads---the amount of hogging or not depends upon pressure you exert, and the speed of the motor/shaft.
Willy gave me some a couple of years ago to field test, since i was having a bit of trouble with shafts of typhoons going out of alignment--i have been convinced ever since--it took me a bit of eggort, but i finally wore the tops off of the teeth! now, they serve for finer work.
You might also want to invest in a sanding mandrel, with replaceable sponges and sanding paper--usually 80 grit will suffice for dekes!
 
Thanks guys I knew I would get some great input. Yes Chuck, I am planning on calling Willy (or at least Princess Di), but I always like to get a number of inputs, try to understand the reasoning behind them before I talk to the supplier. I also found this basic description of the different types of burrs. Way too basic for those of you already in the game but it helped give me some back ground. With my dremel, I’ve only used small fluted cutters, stones, cut off wheels and sanding drums.Tentatively I’m going to go with a Saburrs in coarse 3/4" taper and leave the super coarse to experts like George. I do hope to develop the skills to become comfortable with the most aggressive cutters but for now I’m going to back down a step. Possibly wasting my money but I think I’ll add a ¼” taper medium for detail work, and definitely a 1” dia Cushioned Sanding Drum w/ a spare cushion. Lee that 3/8” X 2” silver thingy sounds like a Kutzall Carbide Sanding Drum. They look tempting but maybe for later after I decide what grit paper I like in the Cushioned Sanding Drum then match it.

Thanks for all the help guys!
Scott
 
Scott,
I was having problems with the kutzalls throwing teeth once in a while--shafts were fine, though--i did find that the saburrs kept their continuity and sharpness, and did discover that if you were gentle, you could get down to almost smooth! that sanding mandrel is a must!!!! saves a ton of time
 
Foredom makes a sleeve that is 2 inch long 3/4 diameter with 1/4 inch shank. It is my number one bit. Use it for cork or wood. The red one is my choice. I know you can get them from sugar pine. $30 and the drum is about $3.
 
Thanks for the input Jason, it sounds like the big brother of Lee's sanding drum. Having the full 2" length does sound interesting. Perry, I'm always pleased to listen when George or any of the Runamuck guys share their experience. I think I'm pretty much in agreement with his recommendations except I'm backing down from extra coarse to coarse due to my personal skill level (beginner). I'm sure as heck planing on keeping away from the flying [font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]kutzall teeth.

Thanks again all!

Scott
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The gold thing I have isn't a sander. I have two sanding drums I got from Willy and a bunch I had for my drill press . The ones from Willy take flat paper, not drum type paper. You can do a lot with the sand paper dealies when you get comfy running the tit eater.
 
Scott, don't use any of your good tools on the black stuff. They won't be good after you use them on it.

Carving decoys now, are you? Give up on the foamers or just tired of it after making 50 dozen or so?

Jim
 
Actually the first duck I ever made was a many layer white pine mallard I carved back in the early 80's. I then made a bunch of primitive BS cork ducks and 12 BS cork geese just about the same time period. The EPS Foamers have been a great way to fill out my diver rigs. Still have lots of bodies and heads kicking around, as well as a new to me Brant mold, a GE head mold and a smaller puddle duck mold. When I'm bored I want to try two part foam in them. Right now I'm converting the 12 BS Cork geese into Brant by reshaping and adding "Brant" heads. This way I should get some use out of them without having to worry about the weight. I've also been working on a handful of Buffies in basswood and cedar since I don't have a small diver mold. With the two sheets of Wiley's tan cork I have a light fantasy to put together a cork puddle rig for special hunts. Maybe a handful of Blacks, mallards, GW teal and two bull sprig. And of course I need a classic RB Merge rig for when that's the only "duck" Min lets us hunt.

Did you ever make any more decoys after your Black Duck rig?

It's all about keeping busy and having fun!

Scott
 
Hi Scott, If you want to try out some of the different burrs give me a call or send a email. I am in central CT. (Portland) and I have a number of the burrs that you are looking at purchasing. You can give me a call on 860-338-3590 or send me a email at revcoys56@yahoo.com. Thanks Pete
 
Pete,

I saw you listed in the "Volunteer / Instructor List" on the carving forum and thought I'd touch bases with you when I finished picking Tod's brains. I'm still at the don't know much stage but I've got books and I'm having fun. My buddy Paul D. has always been extremely complimentary of both you and your work. He has one of your decoys in his living room. For some reason we never get to hunt over it :^)

I would very much like to take you up on your offer. The next week or two are crazy but I will give you a call next week and check on your availability.

Thank you!

Scott
 
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