Show me your keels!

K

Kevin Puls

Well-known member
Looking for design ideas for wooden keels for foam decoys. The three big decisions are weighted vs not, line wrap slot vs not and material to use.

Also, anyone know of a place to order a simple branding iron with just my name for a reasonable price?
 
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I found that many of the keels I made with line wrap slots were mostly a waste of my time. Like many things that look good on paper, not so good in reality. In nasty weather hurry up pick up you do not have the luxury of using them, but they look nice...
 
And, Terry will be at the ODCCA Decoy Show in Strongsville next month.

Or at least he always has been in the past.

Jn
 
As an alternative to a brand,I've actually had decent luck with a custom rubber stamp and a solvent based ink (stazon). I apply it after the finish and it looks good, I'm not like a 100 day a year hunter, but it's held up great for me, and I've even had em in salt water. I figure when the stamp rubs off I could just reapply. I got a custom letter stamp (you pick size/design etc) and the ink for like 15$.
 
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Kevin - The keel you saw on my longtails are a standard for me. Made of 1.5 in tall aspen, 1/2 inch wide, they are fitted to the length of the bottom of the decoy. I drill out a cavity near the middle of the keel from the top to create a cavity to pour lead. This way, the lead is totally contained inside the keel and not exposed. I use a screw eye fitted with a 1 inch stainless steel ring I get from Decoy Rigs. They are not great for wrapping lines but excellent for longline rigs. Each keel is stained to allow the beauty of the wood to show then, sealed with a spar varnish.

I second the notion of using Terry's brands. He's made several for me. They are reasonable in cost and last a lifetime. Let me know if you have questions. Pat
 
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I will look Terry up at the show. Looking at some web pages they seem to run for 70$ and up. A little out of my price range to be honest. I will see what he has to say.
 
Kevin~

Here is what I have done on the few foamers I have made. I do not have a photo of the completed bottom - and my 'Squaw decoys are on Long Island right now.

OldsquawFoamerbottom_zps6d87ba81.jpg


The 1/4" AC protects the edges of the foam, gives bearing for the screw eye and something for the ballast weight to bite into. I also set the ballast in adhesive caulk. The ballast weight is poured in an old cast iron muffin mold. I flatten the head of a deck screw (side-to-side) on a grinder before I pour the lead around it.

Most of my wood or cork birds have conventional keels - usually 5/4 x 1 3/3" pine with the ballast poured inside as Pat described. I bore a 3/8" hole in the forward end for my anchor line. I also round the ends of my keels so they do not chafe other stool. I wrap all my birds around the body - in the interest of time and out of lifelong habit.

RBMerg-2012_zpsbf84c517.jpg


All the best,

SJS
 
I am a fan of lead pad vs. keel. Keels take up a lot of room in a bag and if you put your birds in a bucket they sure do put the hurt on other birds.
 
Kevin:
I will be attending the ODCCA show this year, I should be there Friday noonish. I will not have a table in the ballroom, but I will be circlating and having a great time. Please stop me and talk to me, I'll answer any questions you may have.

Jerry Stateler makes the best keels, they are all cabinet grade wood sealed and coated with spar varnish. It is a thing of beauty, as they look at the fine keel, it gives them less time to be critical of my carving ability! Here's a photo of some keel for my decoys.

Thank you guys for the ringing endorsment!


 
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Kevin~

I just stumbled across some better photos - while looking for something else this morning. Here is the bottom of my Oldsquaw foamer fully assembled:

OldsquawBallast_zps091b41cb.jpg


And here are the keels on a pair of cork Broadbill. Note on these how I poured the lead into the bottom of the keels. You need to cut/drill some "ears" inside the mortise -which I cut on the drill press with a 1/2" Forstner bit - to keep the lead from dropping out.

Keels_zpsa3f2fbaf.jpg

 
My NORCRAFT branding iron has served me well since 1985, as there were few choices back then. I don't know if they are still in business.
 
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