South Bay Duck Boat Spray Shield

Steven,

I cant thank you enough!! This is definitely the direction Ill go! I was thinking of shooting over the side of the boat sitting on cushions on the floor. I plan to start my build soon, so I will keep everyone updated!!
 
My boat blind has a low bench in it I made from a 1x12 it sits about 8 inches high placing my head at the right height for the blind. This low gets old after two hours for me at least.
 
Before I hunted from a one man duckboat, I took a 13' boston whaler and converted it to a three man side by side duck boat. Built a flat deck on the bow, a two piece folding deck over our laps. A short back to lean against. Worked well, was low profile, but not really comfortable for long periods.
The problem with the design was the back that acted like a sail on real windy days. We did not hunt open water, only smaller creeks. Each style of blind has it's limitations. Most of the blinds out here are are floating blinds, I am in the minority here.
I prefer hunting from one man boats hunting in pairs.
 
I have a 13 foot skiff that i use with a scissor blind, but came across this SBDB. For the price had to get it. Im thinking ill build some sort of blind for the front and put flip down doors on the sides, kind of like what they had but higher to fit my needs. Maybe get a custom fiberglass piece for the front to grass up and protect water from getting in. And for seating maybe a low bench long enough to fit 2 guys side by side
 
Good morning, Matt~


Here is how I would approach it:


1) remove all of the existing cockpit coaming - cut to a rectangle similar to the one added by the previous owner. So, the cockpit opening would be a bit wider and a bit longer than the stock South Bay,



2) reinforce the edges of the cockpit with wooden framing on the underside of the deck.


3) add a new wooden coaming 4 - 6 inches tall on all 4 sides.


4) make tall flapboards for port and starboard. On this boat, I made both flapboards open framework style - so gunners can can see through them as birds approach but let them down when it's time to shoot. I would make the windward flap solid (plywood or fibreglass) - to keep out wind and improve hide - and the downwind (shooting) flap framework-style. Instrad of the on-deck mounting blocks shown here, you could simply mount the hinges on the wooden coamings.



View attachment 12 Flap boards.jpg



For the open framework, I reeve decoy line through the frame so that bundles of hay can be lashed to it.


View attachment Flapboards - thatching line outside.jpg



In down position....


View attachment Flapboards - thatching line inside.jpg



Here it is thatched up. This vessel has a solid canvas "weather cloth" that can be snapped inside either the port or starboard flap boards - depending upon how the boat was situated relative to the rig. The weather cloth gives the solid, wind-proof backdrop on the windward side. On your boat, I would simply make the windward flap (starboard) solid wood or 'glass.



View attachment Thatch after cutting full portside.jpg



5. Make a tall spray shield on the forward end of the cockpit.


6. Instead of a long bench seat, I would make 2 boxes - say 12" wide x 16" long x 8" (or more) tall. The top would be hinged so small gear - lunch, camera, ammo, gloves - could be stowed inside. I would glue 1-inch foam on top as padding.


I'll send some sketches later today....


Hope this helps!


SJS





 
Good morning Steven,

That is exactly the look I am leaning towards in my head for this boat. Thank you thank you!! This helps tremendously. Looking forward to those sketches! Plan on starting a the big overhaul this weekend!
 
Matt~


Here are the sketches - I hope each is self-explanatory.


Note that I would not go as wide as the existing keyhole coamings. I would remove them and rebuild the deck in that area.



View attachment Cockpit 1 - Cut Line.jpg





The framing needs to be clear stock. Fitting it is the most challenging part of this whole project, in my opinion. If you can get good 3/4-inch treated lumber, it's an inexpensive but strong and rot-resistant option.


Here's the Plan View - not to scale. Note that the carlins run past the opening - to avoid a weak spot at the cockpit corners.



View attachment Cockpit 2 - Cockpit Framing.jpg



Section view.


View attachment Cockpit 4 - Section.JPG



Quarter knees in each corner greatly strengthen the coamings.


View attachment Cockpit 3 - oblique view of coamings and quarter knees.JPG



These are very easy to make on a chop saw - set at 45 degrees.


View attachment Cockpit 5 - Quarter Knee Detail.JPG





I'll send my thoughts on seat boxes, too.


All the best,



SJS

 
Do you guys think I need to cut it for a bigger opening to put up the collapsable sides? Or could I get away with keeping it stock?
 
If you plan to hunt 2 people I would go with the larger cockpit. It does make a big difference when you open it up.
I do not usually hunt with another person in the boat but I could now.
I hunt with an 80lb lab and wanted to be able to sit sideways on a cut down crate and shoot over the side vs laying down with the dog behind me sneak box style.
 
Good morning, Brian~


What are the width and length of the Garman Cockpit?


BTW: Flowing from this post, I'm going to start another re duckboat seats - for those who hunt in low cover but want to sit up on "something" whilst waiting for the birds to arrive....


All the best,


SJS

 
Good morning Steven,

Cutting open the cockpit is going to be the move I do, following your sketches and dimensions you gave me! Just one question, how would you secure the wooden frame to the fiberglass? Thank you!
 
Matt~


I would bed the framing members in either 3M 5200 or a thickened epoxy.


I would fasten from above the deck with s/s panhead screws - 1-inch #10s. I usually remove the screws - and then fill the holes with thickened epoxy once the 5200 or epoxy has cured. (About a full week for the 5200, 48 hours for the epoxy).


There are a few different ways to finish off the deck=coaming joint. I'll send some more sketches when I have a bit more time.



All the best,



SJS







 
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