South Bay refurb

VINCE, did YOU EVER GET MY MESSAGE ON NEEDING YOUR HOME MAILING ADDRESS TO MAIL YOU THESE PICTURES I TOOK & DEVELOPED FOR YOU . STILL WAITING I HAVE SENT YOU A PRIVITE MESSAGE E/MAIL & HAVE NOT HEARD FROM YOU PLEASE SEND IT THANK YOU PAUL
 
I appreciate the input on the trim / edge protection, and I am going to take the time source like material. Even if it's black and gets painted with the rest of the boat it will make a big difference aesthetically.

Despite having to work 12hr shifts all this week I made an important purchase tonight... I've been searching for some time to find this... I finally acquired a 15hp Johnson outboard at a reasonable price.
I did run the boat 2 times at the end of last season with both the 25hp and 9.9hp, but I think the 15hp will be an improvement and best of all it offers the same low profile of the 9.9hp. I found it very difficult to shoot over anything bigger. And now I can dedicate the 9.9hp johnson to my barnegat bay sneakbox. Win. Just not going to get anywhere in a hurry, the BBSB is a displacement hull and the South bay, well it's "in the same boat" haha

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Jason~


Please let us know which model/item from McMaster-Carr matches the South Bay.


More important: You do not need an "excuse" to buy tools - simply provide the sound reasoning and justification for the necessary investments....


All the best,


SJS

 
Taco marine moldings makes quite a few of the trim moldings found on fiberglass boats. I think they are located in Florida. The pic of what you found is type used on kayak cockpits. Some commercial waterman marine supply outlets carry the original I,m betting.
 
SCORE!!!!!

I had the same motor in 9.9 years back, reliable, always started, pretty much indestructible as long as you don't overheat it and blow the block.
 
I've got a week off work starting tomorrow, doing a little fishing and turkey season starting. I plan to work on the boat at night all week, starting to reconsider the light post mounts, they require large holes in the deck to insert. Am I asking for trouble drilling >1.5" holes in the deck?
 
Got some real work done...

Glassed in the aft bulkhead, using "peanut butter" to seal it to the center transom wall and around the edges (my first time using cabisil, fume silica). Tabbed it in around the edges with 1 layer of chop strand mat. Then drilled inspection holes in each side to allow me to see if anything leaks into the whale tails, it will enable to me to pour foam in once I'm satisfied (didnt install beckson plates, sorry Steve).

This was a learning process, frustrating. Fitting the board in, sanding, sanding, sanding... fiber-glassing, all in the cramped under deck space was a new experience, spilled one whole cup of resin too.
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Next I made my own motorboard... I cut 3 pieces of 1/2" plywood, painted on some resin,added a layer of chop strand mat between each layer and clamped them together around the edges with a big rock on top. Then I sanded the outside and added resin and glass cloth to outside, not so much around edges because I found glassing around corners and edges extremely difficult.

I cut and resin coated an inside "backer board" too. I then clamped the 2 boards together after measuring where they'd be positioned and drilled a center hole. Put motor board up to boat and drilled center hole, penned through hole onto backer and drilled that center hole. At this point I realized the motor board sit just against starboard edge of whale tail and has gap on port side, I decided to press on...

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I then marked where I wanted other 4 holes, tightened the center down and went for it drilling the 4 holes through boat. Went well, they all line up inside and out, all 4 bolts fit nice and tight.

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I then proceeded to put the motor on. I'm not sure how the angle will work out but the height... I got lucky! the cavitation plate sits even the keel center board not the bottom of the boat itself, a difference of just about 1/2". I'm happy with that. I was also able to move the motor to where it is centered and mark positioning.

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Next, I couldn't wait. I enlisted the help of girlfriend. We used 2 tubes of 3m 4000, I went with 4000 because it seals just as well as 5200 but is semi permanent not permanent. And if I need to make changes it will be somewhat easier. We got some out on both boards (motor and backer) where they meet the transom. Some did squeeze out, but...
*lesson learned: the small tubes of sealant I was using not the bigger caulk gun tubes are extremely difficult to squeeze out. I ended up blowing out the back to tube and just smearing/globbing it on with my gloved fingers. I worry now I did not get enough out on boards where they meet transom. I tried to mitigate this by doing the edges once the boards were finished.
Once the boards were pulled tight in the middle I also applied sealant to holes, wasters, and bolts. It now has to cure for 24 hours and I just about completed my first transom.

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There is my first made from scratch motor board. My first bulkhead, glassed in to a transom I patched and glassed, to which I attached the homemade motor board and backer. Shew, only time will tell how I did.
 
Good work Ross, cant wait to see her in action.
Will you make recesses into the circles on the motor board for they motor clamps ends to sit in?
Or bolt the motor on?
 
I will bolt the motor on, those holes can drilled at later date. I am also going to add an eye bolt through the deck backed with square piece of 1/2" plywood to attach cable too from motor. Taking extra precautions since it's my first fabrication.
 
Some good news, for me and anyone else who has to work on a South Bay... I found the edge trim.
Dimensional wise it is exactly the same. It is soft compared to what is on the boat which is rock hard, but I assume that from age and weathering.
It only comes in blue, I am running a paint test as I type this, I have two pieces drying in the garage. I lightly sanded one sample and the other is stock, finger painted with Parkers duck boat paint using a gloved hand.

I now plan to strip all original edge trim. I will glue (how and what type?) on to the edge, drill, pop rivet.

https://hannarubbercompany.com/product/34-opening-x-1-height-blue-silicone-u-channel/

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Jason~


Good find!


I recommend you ask the seller (or manufacturer if you can) for advice on the best adhesive. I believe most South Bays used mechanical fasteners only at the ends - on the stern.


They may know best paints and prep, too.



All the best,


SJS

 
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/taco-marine-black-flexible-vinyl-trim Take a look at Tacos trim molding here. I think you,ll find it exactly what your after.
 
Steve Sanford said:
Jason~


Good find!


I recommend you ask the seller (or manufacturer if you can) for advice on the best adhesive. I believe most South Bays used mechanical fasteners only at the ends - on the stern.


They may know best paints and prep, too.



All the best,


SJS
Click to expand...

Problem, the material won't bond to fiberglass. The original trim had what looked like brass rivers every 2 foot along edge and there appears to glue residual.
 
The way I seen the South bay trim installed is.
1 You need to boil water then put it in a 5 gallon bucket
2 Put the rubber in the water and let it sit for a few minutes.
3 Starting from the stern put about a foot of molding on the boat
4 About a inch or less install a brass rivet (the type that you add a washer then flatten the rivet
I replaced my rivets with 8-32 SS bolts and nut Washer top and bottom
5 Two more inches add the second rivet or bolt.
Now find a helper
6 One person pulls the molding slightly away the other pushes the molding in place.
7 Work your way around the boat when you get to the end add 2 more rivet.

Do not glue in place. In time the rubber will stretch.
When that happens you simple re stretch. I have had my boat 30 years and needed to stretch in 3 times.
 
Good find Rossja, How does the paint stick to it? Still deciding to replace or use my old trim also.

Bill, whats is the proper length of trim to start with? How much should you stretch it?

Brian
 
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