Stainles vs Aluminum vs Piranha prop performance

Depends upon what kind of water you run and how conservative you are too. I have never had to change an aluminum prop due to catastrophic damage. Sure, I've changed to my backup just for the heck of it - but not because I had to. On my current boat I have the prop that came on the motor and the spare I bought with it (refurbished) for $40. I think this is the third year I've run that motor. For my usage, I see no compelling reason to buy a $250 prop.
 
Check on www.midwestpropeller.com they have rebuilts,new,stainless,comp props and do repair and can pound in a different twist if you want. They are really nice to do business with and have made me happy in the past.
 
Dan,

Which SS prop did you get (brand)? I see a Solas on iBoats on sale for $155. Haven't seen anything cheaper.

Pete Pete, Solas is considered the "cheap" brand of props. Obviously given that price you can see why. I've never owned a Solas but I wouldn't hesitate to buy a stainless prop from Solas because a cheap stainless would be better than the best aluminum, and at $155 would be pretty comparable price-wise. As they say, opinions are like a-holes, everyone has one and most are a little different (so my proctologist buddy says). But I always think it's funny when guys try to argue that their opinion is the best when they don't have the experience of trying more than one way to do something. If you have a Cabelas within driving distance you can keep your eye out for a returned stainless in the bargain cave. I've saved a lot of cash in the bargain cave over the years. Otherwise I'd go with the Solas and you will be wonder why you didn't go with a stainless prop sooner. Good luck. Bret
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I don't need to buy a perazzi to know that my citori works "well enough" for my needs. At some point the increase in cost derives marginal returns. I don't need to own a stainless prop to tell you that I don't need one - aluminum works fine for me.

I'm sure the stainless is the bees knees, but I do not need one and I bet there is more than one other person on here that has something better to do with those "extra" dollars. Your procotologist doctor friend aside...
 
Bret,

I wasn't deriding them because they were cheap, or at all for that matter. I recognize the brand but don't know much more about them. I agree though that spending $155 once is a whole lot better than shelling out $80 or $160 a year for new props. I've had two guides that hunt in my area tell me the same thing. I haven't run across anyone or heard of any stories of anyone ruining their gear case due to running a stainless.

A stainless prop will be on my motor before next season and likely before the year is over.

Pete
 
I have heard the stories and seen the mayhem of people busting their 250 dollar stainless props in the Great Pee Dee river. I run alummium and it works for me. The prop that's on my boat right now has been filed 5 times in two years already. I can't do that with a stainless steel one and to tell the truth can't afford to go run to the boat shop and have the lower done. I have seen the torque hubs and pondered their ability to take a strike like a rock flat at 1/4 to half throttle. When the river is low iusually tend to stay off of it unless the stripers are running. This is usually the time I see someone stranded or a tow going up river. There is always that chance your gonna strike and everyone knows it that runs here locally. I would love to have something more durable but without sacrificing my L/U. It's a 25 merc 2 storke so no jet for me. Any suggestions/ references on the torque hub?
 
Well, I know that stainless prop can still get busted up on a rock. But, even if it doesn't, like you say, you can still ruin a LU in a hurry. I can't help you much on the torque hub except tell you my experience. My buddy also runs a 25 merc 2 stroke and has dropped his LU a few times, he's also a little more reckless than me, and he's hit quite a few that did no damage. I've hit several rocks at 1/2 throttle or more, on plane and haven't had any real damage to the LU on my Evinrude (with both the SS and alum props). Really just beating up the skeg, which I should do something about this offseason.

By the way, for anyone looking, there's one of the Merc/Mariner SS props from the above link in the Bargain Cave at Cabela's in Rogers, been there for a couple months. I think it's marked at $125, and it's like new.
 
I don't need to buy a perazzi to know that my citori works "well enough" for my needs. At some point the increase in cost derives marginal returns. I don't need to own a stainless prop to tell you that I don't need one - aluminum works fine for me.

I'm sure the stainless is the bees knees, but I do not need one and I bet there is more than one other person on here that has something better to do with those "extra" dollars. Your procotologist doctor friend aside... Uh huh..... That's wonderful that aluminum works so well for you. Unfortunately your opinion doesn't matter much when it comes to giving advice for which prop material is the best choice for MIDWEST conditions, especially the MISSISSIPPI RIVER. I'm guessing you have very little or no personal experience of boating on ol' Miss, so besides the fact that you don't have any personal experience with stainless props, you also don't understand the conditions on the river in question. FYI- the Miss is full of stumps. And not many rocks. It's not uncommon to hit dozens of stumps each day. Aluminum props get easily bent under in these conditions, leading to propshaft seal failure. Stainless doesn't bend, so it's the absolute best option for these conditions. Your conditions and pocketbook may differ, but I'd gladly pay $125-$155 for a stainless prop than $100 for an aluminum any day. Have fun filing your aluminums guys!
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