James Tully
Member
Just cut mine open. Prepare for questions. Like 'why did I think this would be fun' and 'how do you guys get your boats to stay afloat?' Let the good times roll.
Sunfish to Gunning Boat Conversion
- Thread starter J.P. Ward
- Start date
James Tully
Member
Appreciate that J.P. Although I'm not sure my boat will be as photogenic as yours. I will take pictures along the way and if she turns out decent I'll share. If not it'll be extra motivation to make sure it hides well so no one sees my frankenboat.
Shawn Linn
Active member
J.P. did you get your deck on the sunfish yet?
J.P. Ward
Member
Yesterday, my free time and good weather happened on the same day so I was able to get out and work on the Sunfish some. In March the hull was left with 2 fresh coats of paint and ready to deck.
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I planned to deck with 1/4" plywood but the original fiberglass decking was always attractive as an alternative. I knew it would come up short because of the increased arch in the new deck. To see how much, I snapped a chalkline on the center line and cut it in half
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The halves were tacked down to the outwales to discover how much more I needed to cover the arch. The difference was approximately 4" wide tapering down to nothing at the ends of the boat. I made paper templates to transfer the difference to some scrap decking and cut them out with a skill saw. Since I didn't plan this approach I also had to scarf in some smaller pieces to make the cockpit cut-out work with the bulkheads.
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After some grinding and smoothing the deck pieces went into the garage to be joined.
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Duct tape held the pieces together for the glue
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They were joined with 2 pieces of 4" tape and epoxy. Cellophane over the top allowed me to place the weights directly on the joints.
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This is where it sits today.
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I planned to deck with 1/4" plywood but the original fiberglass decking was always attractive as an alternative. I knew it would come up short because of the increased arch in the new deck. To see how much, I snapped a chalkline on the center line and cut it in half
The halves were tacked down to the outwales to discover how much more I needed to cover the arch. The difference was approximately 4" wide tapering down to nothing at the ends of the boat. I made paper templates to transfer the difference to some scrap decking and cut them out with a skill saw. Since I didn't plan this approach I also had to scarf in some smaller pieces to make the cockpit cut-out work with the bulkheads.
After some grinding and smoothing the deck pieces went into the garage to be joined.
Duct tape held the pieces together for the glue
They were joined with 2 pieces of 4" tape and epoxy. Cellophane over the top allowed me to place the weights directly on the joints.
This is where it sits today.
James Tully
Member
Looks like it'll work. Looks like you planned it even. Glad I took mine off in one piece and put aside. As I haven't done any of my bulkheads and knees I wasn't sure how much of a crown I was going to put in and I was thinking I might get away with cutting into panels but this gives me some hope that it'll work.
I like the idea of fiberglas deck on a fiberglas hull. Having done considerable work on Corvette's I like the way you pieced the deck. On Corvette's we always use tek screws to hold the parts in place while the resin sets up. Might be a little easier but looks like your way worked well.
Joe
Joe
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
J. P.~
I think you and I might be cut from the same cloth: great way to re-use and re-purpose! (Although you may want to change the color at some point.....)
QUESTION: Where did you find the cellophane? I would like to have a roll in the shop for molding - much superior to wax paper.
All the best,
SJS
I think you and I might be cut from the same cloth: great way to re-use and re-purpose! (Although you may want to change the color at some point.....)
QUESTION: Where did you find the cellophane? I would like to have a roll in the shop for molding - much superior to wax paper.
All the best,
SJS
James Tully
Member
Steve-
I know most big hardware stores sell the large rolls of heavy cellophane stretch wrap like you would use to wrap pallets (or unsuspecting buddies cars) with. The come in like 2-3' wide rolls and you can put some serious pressure on them while wrapping. Might be worth a look for bigger jobs.
I used to use the heavy plastic sheets from overhead projectors when doing surfboard repairs. They were amazing. Especially on rails and noses where a radius had to be matched.
I know most big hardware stores sell the large rolls of heavy cellophane stretch wrap like you would use to wrap pallets (or unsuspecting buddies cars) with. The come in like 2-3' wide rolls and you can put some serious pressure on them while wrapping. Might be worth a look for bigger jobs.
I used to use the heavy plastic sheets from overhead projectors when doing surfboard repairs. They were amazing. Especially on rails and noses where a radius had to be matched.
J.P. Ward
Member
So after a hiatus for the worst of the summer heat I'm back to work on the Sunfish. I added some doublers of 3/4 plywood traps to the bulkheads to add some gluing surface for the deck.
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After prepping the surfaces one more time I used generous amounts of 3M 5200 and set the back half. Drywall screws clamped it tight.
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I did the same thing with the forward deck a couple of days later. While the 5200 dried, I started shaping the coamings.
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To join the halves of the deck i cut butt blocks from remains of the deck. They were glued in place with thickened epoxy. More dry wall screws pulled everything together.
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For the coamings I used Cedar to keep the weight down. They went on with lots of clamps and 3M 5200. The coamings set on top of the deck and are fastened to the deck. I drilled holes for wood screws through the top of the coaming. The wood screws went in from the bottom side to keep the top of the coamings clean and to avoid having to countersink the screw heads.
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After removing the clamps this is where she sits. Ready to fair the deck and paint.
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After prepping the surfaces one more time I used generous amounts of 3M 5200 and set the back half. Drywall screws clamped it tight.
I did the same thing with the forward deck a couple of days later. While the 5200 dried, I started shaping the coamings.
To join the halves of the deck i cut butt blocks from remains of the deck. They were glued in place with thickened epoxy. More dry wall screws pulled everything together.
For the coamings I used Cedar to keep the weight down. They went on with lots of clamps and 3M 5200. The coamings set on top of the deck and are fastened to the deck. I drilled holes for wood screws through the top of the coaming. The wood screws went in from the bottom side to keep the top of the coamings clean and to avoid having to countersink the screw heads.
After removing the clamps this is where she sits. Ready to fair the deck and paint.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, J. P. ~
Excellent work! Isn't it amazing how initiative returns after the summer heat begins to wane ?
Great job on the comings - doing double duty to stiffen the decks as well as keeping the Mighty Seas at bay.
All the best,
SJS
Excellent work! Isn't it amazing how initiative returns after the summer heat begins to wane ?
Great job on the comings - doing double duty to stiffen the decks as well as keeping the Mighty Seas at bay.
All the best,
SJS
J.P. Ward
Member
So with time for a few test runs before our season starts I finished out the Sunfish conversion with paint, canvas, oars, and accessories.
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I patterned the mini dodger with some scrap canvas. The bow is a piece of plastic electrical conduit. The dodger was sewn of Sunbrella and fixed to the hull with snaps.
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Here are a few pics from a recent test run.
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Here is what was left of the original boat minus the tub and centerboard slot.
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Thanks to Steve Sanford for the inspiration and much of the plan.
I patterned the mini dodger with some scrap canvas. The bow is a piece of plastic electrical conduit. The dodger was sewn of Sunbrella and fixed to the hull with snaps.
Here are a few pics from a recent test run.
Here is what was left of the original boat minus the tub and centerboard slot.
Thanks to Steve Sanford for the inspiration and much of the plan.
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James Tully
Member
Nice job J.P. Makes me want to re light the fire on getting mine done. What do you think finished weight is on yours? I'm looking to transport mine in my truck bed with a bed extender for quick solo hunts so just want to make sure I'll be able to hoist it in and out of the bed solo.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Good morning, J. P. ~
Excellent result ! I look forward to your many adventures in her.
BTW: Did you add a skeg? If you plan to row her long distances, a skeg would help her track. (On the other hand - a skeg would grab the bottom if you'll be working her in shoals, weeds or mud.)
All the best,
SJS
Excellent result ! I look forward to your many adventures in her.
BTW: Did you add a skeg? If you plan to row her long distances, a skeg would help her track. (On the other hand - a skeg would grab the bottom if you'll be working her in shoals, weeds or mud.)
All the best,
SJS
James Tully
Member
Scales are over rated. Asking for weight was more measured in hernia or no hernia. Glad to hear it's doable with one man. Looking forward to hear how it hunts.
Bill Clark
Well-known member
Great job J.P. that hull configuration ought to row with little effort. Terrific workmanship and vision.