TDB Foam replacement

G

Greg Tessar

Member
I have an 89 14 classic which is in great shape except that it 's a little heavy in the rear. I haven't opened it up yet but it seems the rear flotation foam is wet and needs to be replaced. I put a moisture meter on it and it buried it. I would like some advice on how to open up the sections and replace foam and close it back up. Any suggestions would help.
Thanks
 
You will need to open the area up, cut, scrape or digout the wet foam, re-install new foam then close up hole. If your not comfortable doing fiberglass work then you can use a large hole saw or cut an opening and install a small poly hatch or inspection plate.
 
This is now becoming common issues with these boats. Drill a couple small holes near the base of the foam chambers where it meets the floor and watch them pee. LOL

It would be major work to replace the foam but you could simply cut a section of the foam chambers and remove the foam. putting it back will be tougher as it rises naturally and you would have to find a way to put in from top or simply cut pieces of eps foam to refill them.

Look for cracks along the floor where the foam chambers meets this seems to be a problem and also check the seem of the hull deck joint in the back corners as this also allows water to get into the chambers.
 
John did a good job of how to fix the problem. I would add to get the foam that doesn't not want to come out easy use a small wire wheel on a drill. It will chew the foam right up. Also when you are ready to foam lift the bow of the boat as far as possible so when you pour the foam it will run to the back and fill from back to front. If you cut the whole front wall of the flotation box out use a piece of card board with past wax on it to cover the hole to contain the foam so it will fill properly. Once the foam good you just pull the cardboard off and glass shut. All said I don"t think it is that big of a job. Just make sure everything is sealed to keep water out in the future.

Tom.
 
Thanks guys for your input. I like the idea of using a deck plate or inspection cover. I'm open to any other suggestions. I'll let you know how I make out.
 
Gregg, depending on where the foam is and what access you can create, I know you can use a power washer and pulverize the foam, and then use a wet vac to remove it? If you can install the deck plates on the high side, then you could use those holes to run the power washer. Then when she is cleaned out and dry, pour the foam in? Don't install the plate final until you pour and expand the foam so you can trim it up nice. Maybe excavate a small cavity after the foam is expanded as a spot for storage under the deckplate? Maybe stick a plastic container glued in?
 
Greg,
You own a great boat. I purchased mine new in 1993. I have not encountered the issues you have because it has been garage kept it's whole life. I would however caution that whatever modifications you make that will alter the flotation be minimal, because that boat is designed to float full of water. I know! It floats level and can be rolled over with two guys once it's capsized. You can then slide back in and bail it out. Good luck with your repairs.
RVZ
 
Greg,
You own a great boat. I purchased mine new in 1993. I have not encountered the issues you have because it has been garage kept it's whole life. I would however caution that whatever modifications you make that will alter the flotation be minimal, because that boat is designed to float full of water. I know! It floats level and can be rolled over with two guys once it's capsized. You can then slide back in and bail it out. Good luck with your repairs.
RVZ
I know of a boat the capsized and could not be rolled over, the hunter has to sit on to of the belly up boat till they got rescued.. The dog was not so lucky. Keep in mind this is a high sided flat bottom boat.
Click to expand...
 
Greg,
You own a great boat. I purchased mine new in 1993. I have not encountered the issues you have because it has been garage kept it's whole life. I would however caution that whatever modifications you make that will alter the flotation be minimal, because that boat is designed to float full of water. I know! It floats level and can be rolled over with two guys once it's capsized. You can then slide back in and bail it out. Good luck with your repairs.
RVZ
Click to expand...
Did this occur on Houghton Lake last fall? If yes, would you elaborate on what happened?
 
Yes, on Houghton Lake. Not last fall. It was November 13th eight years ago on a week day during deer season. It was not the boats fault. I was running in the trough of a wave, maybe 2 to 3 footers headed to lee water to set a diver rig. I backed the engine down, the bow came up and a wave forced a slow roll. We held the grassing rails on the way over. Lost an anchor and binoculars but everything thing on the shelves stayed put. Bottom line is the boat saved our lives because of it's design.
RVZ
 
Rod, that can be a very scary lake to hunt on in a blow;large surface area coupled with shallow water brings large waves very quickly. Good to hear that you survived with minor loss and that the boat held-up its end of the bargain.
 
New to forum and new 1996 TDB 14 Classic owner. Do the foam chambers take up whole space in the back two corners? Or is there an empty pocket where the handle and cleat bolt thru?

Thanks,
Scott
 
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