The Latest South Bay Duckboat "Spa Treatment"

Good morning, Rick~


No. I tried a couple of times - e-mail and phone - but never got a reply. I guess that's one that got away.


All the best,


SJS

 
Good morning, Steve (and Rich Geminski and Cap'n Wrackline)~


I sent you a PM re motor board.


Next time I have a South Bay in the shop, I will make a prototype shelf to run along one side of the cockpit, beneath the deck. I have thought about this before. I would probably hang it from the upper deck and not try to fasten it to the hull or the "chine". I'd probably make it long enough for a cased shotgun - and also add a little rack to hold 6 or so shells at-the-ready.


Would you want a shelf along the port or stbd side?



Stay tuned......


SJS

 
Good morning, Jay~


After a quick search, I could not find a photo of the full hull interior. I like to scour them and paint them - including the underside of the deck - when I work on a vessel. I have inspected several, though, and there is some variation.


I just looked at a very early South Bay. It had no bulkheads for flotation foam and it had a plywood floor 'glassed in.


All the others have plywood bulkheads for and aft. I installed a 6-inch Beckson Deck Plate in the forward bulkhead of this boat - which I believe was built in 1984. The Becksons are a good idea - so foam can be inspected. It was bone dry, I am happy to report.


View attachment WSB AFTER 74 Beckson fwd closed - small.JPG



Here is the aft bulkhead - and the backing board I add when I attach the new motor board. The "bumper" on the backing board protects the gas tank from chafing on the hardware. I installed a pair of 4-inch Beckson's here - and the foam was good and dry in both compartments.


You can also glimpse the backing board I used for the eye-bolt which is mounted through the stern deck thatch rail - and takes the safety chain from the OB. Just ahead of that, you can see where I cut through the foam that was sprayed to the underside of the deck. The foam has a skin of 'glass mat. I removed it so I could install another backer for the 6-inch deck cleat.



View attachment WSB AFTER transom Beckson, backing plate, bumper and ID plate.jpg



This photo shows both a cross member (the frames or, more traditionally, the "floors") - which is a 1x2 'glassed flat to the hull - AND - the wood encapsulated within each of the strakes (which stiffen the hull and also help to keep the hull on track). The wood inside the strakes is 'glassed flush to the hull interior.



I think there are 4 cross members - onto 2 of which I fasten the bases for the turnbuttons.


View attachment Floorboards - Turnbutton pad - small.jpg



I have also seen cross-members (frames) made of half-round PVC pipe - but I do not know if that was "factory" or a later "fix".


I always enjoyed seeing South Bay creator Red Magnus at various shows. I wish now I had "interrogated" him thoroughly about his boats.



Hope this answers some questions.


SJS













 
Jay, there is a full series of photos in sequence in the link that BobM has posted in the classifieds for his South Bay boat that Steve rehabbed some years back. The turn-buttons and hand bilge pump access well are really nice, well thought-out additions.
 
Paul et al~


I spoke with Red about a year ago; he lives in western NY. We had a nice chat - but I'm afraid long, detailed conversations are no longer within his grasp. I sent him a copy of On the Falling Tide - and made sure his wife could play it for him.


Would you put a shelf on the port or stbd side? Or do you need all the room you can get for The Next Generation?


All the best,


SJS

 
I visited Red at this house in Sayville back in the 90's and bought a pair of his RB mergansers that he made from refrigerator cork and one of his famous shoving poles. I'll try to remember to post a pic, they are just incredible. I used to hunt over them but just can't bring myself to anymore. If my house was burning down, they would be one of the things I'd grab. His house was so modest and meticulous, like a time capsule from the 50's. His, and his son's SBDBs were in the back yard; one with the gray, green and brown camo pattern, the other dull dead grass. He is one of the warmest men I've ever met; completely oblivious to the contributions he's made to waterfowling, or maybe that was just more of his modesty. Both of my SBDB stories are as unique as the boats. First, my gunning partner got a call from his father's friend that they "didn't use their duck boat anymore" and that we could have it. We were expecting a home made, waterlogged disaster. We arrived to find a SBDB that was painted gray and couldn't get it onto the trailer (for free) fast enough. Many years later I was scrounging for firewood and saw a downed tree in a yard in the worst area of Brentwood (a sketchy town to start with.) I went up to knock on the door and noticed that the electric meeter wasn't even spinning (imagine horror movie set.) I walked around the yard and saw a giant clam boat AND a SBDB......the weird just got weirder. I split. Years later a neighbor ON MY STREET asked me if I still duck hunt. He offered me his old boat and told me to meet him at his (dead) parents old house in Brentwood. He started to give me directions.....I said "I know the way." $800 and it was loaded with Al McCormack BBill decoys.

One thing Red told me was how he regularly field hunted broad bill upstate. Was he messing with me?
 
Sorry Steve,
I forgot to answer your question. I installed one of the two shelves you made for me on the port side of my boat as I hunt over the engine and that puts my gear to my right. I love it, thanks.
 
Mc~


I recall scribing the pattern for the "hanging knees" - but have NO recollection of actually completing the shelves....ahhh....to be 64 again!!!!!


All the best,


SJS (age 65)

 
Steve Sanford said:
Mc~


I recall scribing the pattern for the "hanging knees" - but have NO recollection of actually completing the shelves....ahhh....to be 64 again!!!!!


All the best,


SJS (age 65)
Click to expand...

Another pic I'll have to send. I have one that is not yet installed if you'd like to take a pattern next time you come down.
 
R - Just looked in the classifieds. That is really some boat Steve rehabbed there.

Steve - I just looked in the above link. You really do an unreal job. I was super impressed with how you rehabbed even some of the original trailer parts.

It's a shame all these South Bays became available AFTER I bought my Higbee. Oh well.
 
Steve, Never gave the a full length shelf a thought. Got to do some thinking now. I only use 6-8 decoys as I hunt salt marsh and only see small groups of birds. When we hunt up west with John L, we take extra brant etc.
I have my gas tank and battery in the bow on a lift out tray, similiar to your stern tray. I usually stow my gun in a floating gun case in the bow to clear the deck. Like your idea of hanging the shelf for more decoy storage.
Any idea for running wires for bow/ stern light? I like hard wiring.
 
Capt Rich Geminski said:
Steve, Never gave the a full length shelf a thought. Got to do some thinking now. I only use 6-8 decoys as I hunt salt marsh and only see small groups of birds. When we hunt up west with John L, we take extra brant etc.
I have my gas tank and battery in the bow on a lift out tray, similiar to your stern tray. I usually stow my gun in a floating gun case in the bow to clear the deck. Like your idea of hanging the shelf for more decoy storage.
Any idea for running wires for bow/ stern light? I like hard wiring.
Click to expand...

Hi Rich,
The shelf is too small for decoys. It is for shells, calls, coffee, flashlight etc. I've measured and tinkered with a longer, larger shelf but with the interior curvature of the deck, you'd have to bring the shelf right to the edge of the cockpit to make it work, which would terribly eliminate valuable foot room etc. I too only hunt with a handful of puddlers. I have them in a slotted bag on it's side in the cockpit. I can also stack 10 brant in the stern because my gas can is in the bow.
 
Steve Sanford said:
Good morning, Rich~
Steve, I always wanted oar locks but can not figure out were to install them or how long the oars would need to be. For now I stow a push pole and a double ended paddle.
Nope. When I plan each rehab with the owners, we go over the boats inch by inch. No one has requested shelves yet. I think most want the option to gun 2 people sideways in the cockpit.


BTW: No one has asked for oarlocks either. I wouldn't leave the launch without oars ad oarlocks in a duckboat....



All the best,


SJS
Click to expand...
 
Bill, here is a good site I came across that might be good to read over to get some idea on our locks and length

http://theoarcruising.blogspot.com/2016/04/where-do-oarlocks-go.html?m=1
 
Good morning, Ben~


When I work on the next South Bay, I plan to work out a set or oarlock stanchions. Because most guys have flapboards on their boats, they would primarily be for emergency use - or if gunning as an open bay layout. I would try to get them about 4-foot on centers. The rower would probably kneel. Any flapboards with removable hinge pins could be removed and stowed (or lashed on the foredeck) to accomodate the oars.


I may design them as foldable stanchions a la Barnegat Bay Sneakboxes.


All the best,


SJS

 
Steve Sanford said:
Good morning, Ben~
Good morning Capt
When designing keep in mind that most run with the flapboards up to keep the water out. I had thoughts of a block on the deck but under the flap board when the boards are down. Then a pipe to extend the oar locks higher, so that you can row with the boards up.
When I work on the next South Bay, I plan to work out a set or oarlock stanchions. Because most guys have flapboards on their boats, they would primarily be for emergency use - or if gunning as an open bay layout. I would try to get them about 4-foot on centers. The rower would probably kneel. Any flapboards with removable hinge pins could be removed and stowed (or lashed on the foredeck) to accomodate the oars.


I may design them as foldable stanchions a la Barnegat Bay Sneakboxes.


All the best,


SJS
Click to expand...
 
For emergency use, why not find a pair of 1/2" aluminum pipe flanges, screw them down to the deck, with adequate backing, of course. Then, procure two pieces of aluminum pipe of appropriate height, as part stanchions. Electrical conduit will work, threaded on one end to screw into the flange, and then find and install into the other, (top, or upper end), nylon bushings, made for oarlocks. When not in use, these can then be stored easy to reach, yet out of way inside the boat somewhere. When needed, the pipes are simply screwed into the flanges, and voila. Very quick, cheap and effective.

I have these on a little, 8' aluminum Duckwater marsh boat we won at a duck hunting show a few years ago. In my case, I can remove them while hunting, as they stick up and sometimes get in the way.

From my experience, I'm not sure I would want to rely on them for rowing miles and miles on an everyday basis, but for light, or emergencies, I think they would be just fine.

Just an idea...

PS, I would get photos, but right now, that rig is tarped over and buried under snow, with a major storm predicted to hit at any moment...

Jon
 
Jon & Bill ~


There's lots to be said for pipe oarlock stanchions. I repaired these - on a 1960s Scooter - a few years back.



View attachment 1 - sm - Skidmore 3 Sea Trials 8.jpg





Many such boats had removable stanchions - that slid through the deck and landed in socket below decks. These are 1/2-inch galvanized iron pipe





View attachment 1 Skidmore - Oarlock stanchion framing.jpg





I've always presumed (but have never seen) they stopped up the deck hole with a cork or a wooden plug when not in use. I fastened and sealed these as permanent features. Rubber caps (furniture feet) keep water out.



View attachment 1 - sm -12 Stanchion cap.jpg



I put them on my first duckboat (circa 1981). I through-bolted these - chromed brass - to Oak frames.



View attachment 1 - sm Grasboat # 1 - stool rack.jpg



I learned the hard way to design every accessory on a duckboat for the worst-case-scenario. I had screw oarlock socket to the softwood coamings of a 2-man Scooter a few years ago - envisioning only occasional use for a boat that would be towed by a larger vessel (the tender). As it turns out, the tender's engine failed on the first day out. We wound up towing the tender with the Scooter - rowing until the oarlock sockets broke away from the coamings - taking some of the coamings with them. Did I mention it was blowing about 35 out of the northwest?


So, the rest of the voyage found us "paddling" (desperately) with the oars. And the next building season found me installing heavy wooden oarlock stanchions bolted through the decks - with the requisite backers and fender washers.


View attachment 1 - sm - WW stanchion 6.JPG



All the best,


SJS













 
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