The latest South Bay Restoration - coming down to the Finish Line

[Steve Sanford]

All~


As you may have noted, I have been flat-out in recent weeks trying to complete the JAMES CAIRD for the ill-fated Tuckerton Show. You may not know that I was also trying to progress on a South Bay Duckboat restoration at the same time. Quite simply, I did not have the time to post progress on either....


So, here is an update. I hope to be wrapping up all the installations and myriad tasks in a few days. I still have 2 "pieces" to fabricate and finish - and then install.


Here are the new removable floorboards. (Stock South Bays installed their floorboards permanently - leading to a number of problems....) You can probably make out the "curbs" up forward to keep the gas tank and other gear from drifting aft when under way. I applied anti-skid in the area open to the cockpit. The 4 oblong slots are for the wooden turn buttons with which the 'boards are held in place. And, the semi-circular cuts allow for the use of a hand bilge pump should one find oneself with a bit too much of Great South Bay within the vessel.


BTW: I was able to re-use the original floorboards - re-cutting them to my pattern and sealing them thoroughly with straight epoxy.



The 11-foot pushpole is a reasonably straight length of closet pole with a duck-bill (Richmar, not the original Herter's). The portion of the pole that fits in the socket is sealed with epoxy - and the pole is set in a slathering of 3M 5200. It is still waiting patently for a Turk's head at its upper end. The pole was sealed with spar varnish before getting its first coat of Parker's Marsh Grass.







The aft chock to secure the pushpole is Mahogany sealed with straight epoxy. The 6-inch galvanized dock cleat has been primed. There will be one each on the central thatch rails, one forward, one on the stern deck. In the background you can see how I masked for the anti-skid.









Here are the central thatch rails - drying in the sun. They are Mahogany and were sealed with spar varnish before getting paint. The block on the foredeck rail will hold the portable navigation light. I used some 1-inch Azek - and a 5/8-inch spade bit bored the perfect socket size.


I made the motor board weeks ago - but my preferred sequence of installations has kept it awaiting its turn. It is wider than usual because the owner bolts a 25-horse onto the craft.







Here is the spray shield before trimming - one of the XLs I lay up on a male mold. It'll get 2 wooden (laminated Mahogany) thatch rails.







Here it is tacked onto the boat - along with one of the flap boards - for measurement and fitting purposes.







As it happens, I have since trimmed the forward ends of each board. I like the rake of the board to match - be parallel with - the rake of the spray shield. There will be a gap of a half-inch or so when both are finally secured.







There are many ways to hold flap boards up where the gunner wants them - either for hiding or for crossing the bay. I made these out of the same piece of Azek - which I had salvaged from the original floorboards - where it had served as a curb. Each will hang via a decoy line lanyard to the inside of the coaming - so they cannot get lost. After this photo, they got some more machining and a coat of primer.







One unusual challenge was the cockpit cover. Some earlier attempts to "reinforce" it produced a concave top - that held about a gallon of water after each rain. The 100+ pounds of lead weights - a gift last year from a LI gunner - seems to have done the trick. I milled some PVC lumber to a trapezoidal section and glued the 2 in place with epoxy + milled fibers + chopped 'glass strands. Just before I came in from the shop I laid wide strips of 1708 biaxial (with mat) over each frame with straight epoxy. The cover now sports a shallow convex "dome" - as it must.






Stay tuned!


SJS

 

[Craig F]

Excellent work as always Steve. I really like that azek chock idea for the flapper boards.

 

[Steve Sanford]

Craig~


Thanks for the kind words.


I hit upon the PVC for chocks last year. Unlike real lumber (wood for us Old School guys....), there is no grain to split. And, no real strength (other than some compression) is required. These chocks were 3/4" but I like the 1-inch - a bit more lateral stability when in use.







I also use the PVC "lumber" for chocks to hold a gun rest across the cockpit in South Bays. Because there is no concern about rot (as there would be with the plywood I used to use) I install them dry. It allows the owner to move them fore and aft easily if desired/needed. Here I used 3/4" but 1/2" is fine/better.







One more "new" (for me) application of the 1-inch PVC was to add some thickness to the transom when I installed the drain tube. With it added to the stock South Bay 'glass hull + 1/2-inch plywood, it took the standard 1-7/8" tube without any need to cut it - which can be challenging.






All the best,


SJS

 

[Steve Sanford]

All~


Here are all the little things that come together during the final innings of a restoration. The owner hauled the vessel South on Friday. I hope to see it all thatched up and ready-to-hunt at the SSWA Duckboat Show on October 28 - at Cedar Beach.


Here is the "before" central thatch rail with the socket to hold its temporary bow light.







And here is a cleat mounted on the foredeck, to the starboard of the thatch rail. There was one like it on the stern deck, down toward the gunwale.






The interior got thoroughly painted - with Parker's Marsh Grass. I tried to paint any surface - such as the flotation foam up under the decks - that could be glimpsed from outside the boat.






Making the cockpit cover convex once again was successful. But, I needed to relocate the original holes that had held an "aftermarket" s/s handle - as they were not directly on the center line.








The new handle is backed up with big fender washers...






...and is now webbing - instead of a rigid wood or metal handle.






The "hatch" on South Bay Duckboats is not symmetrical fore and aft. So, I mark the forward end so it can be seen in low light.






Two coats of flat white oil do the trick.






And just in case the hatch gets separated from the boat and its owner - a little ID can't hurt.






Much more to come.....


SJS

 

[Steve Sanford]

Final Innings - Part 2


As I was putting new thatch rails down the center line - and had already "modified" the 2 small rails either side of the outboard notch - I decided to round and fair the existing laterals - even though they were new last year. I began by routing the 2 upper edges whilst the rails were still conveniently held on the boat. The ends were shaped later on - in the vise. They got sealed with Spar Varnish and painted before being re-installed later in the process.







I flipped her over for some underdeck work - so she was "Duckboat in Space" for a few minutes.






The bottom was in excellent shape - and needed no filling or fairing.







The new center thatch rail on the stern deck has a cleat and an eye bolt - the latter for securing the engine. As it went through the deck in an especially strong location - right near the bend of the transom, I used just a large (1.5") s/s fender washer as a backer.






The cleat - a 6-inch galvanized dock cleat - was mid-deck - so got a plywood backer in addition to 2 fender washers. I want to be sure the boat can be lifted safely by its deck cleats.







I measured the shape of the bulkheads because my next South Bay (3 more in the queue) was built without them (and thus no flotation chambers). So, I'm using this vessel to make my templates. This is the forward bulkhead.







When cutting out the holes for the inspection plates - one 6-inch in the forward bulkhead and two 4" in the aft - I was happy to see that the foam was nice and dry. I have encountered fully-saturated flotation in some earlier South Bays.






The inner "transom" is all done. Inspection plates, new motor board and backer (with the "bumper" to protect gas tank or gear from the bolt ends), transom drain, and paint.






This migrant took a brief rest on the flapper boards as their prime coat cured in the sun.






The floorboards, too, worked on their tan during the daylight hours.






Not done yet.....


SJS

 

[Steve Sanford]

Final Innings - Part 3


The turnbuttons - to secure the floorboards - were made from Black Locust. They got a few coats of Spar Varnish.







I finished the "rod" for the gun rest bright as well. The chocks are made from half-inch PVC "lumber".






The new "XL" spray shield got painted inside and out.






I mask the mating surfaces for the thatch rails so the 3M 5200 will make a good bond.






I removed the wooden "prop guards" from the outboard notch - and prepped the surface for fresh paint.






I never took a "before" photo of the back rest - a simple piece of half-inch plywood. I decided to clean up its edges and add some foam padding a a bit of canvas - the same Cordura nylon (1000 denier) that I first used on the JAMES CAIRD.







The Coyote color is an amazing match for the Parker's Marsh Grass duckboat paint.





The Cordura is set in caulk and held with s/s staples on the bottom.



I used to use rubber "grommets" to protect the coamings and cockpit cover from the flap boards. They proved to be both expensive and unreliable. Instead, I now use a hole saw to punch out these foam discs from a piece of shop mat. They are held in place on the flap boards with 3M 5200.







Here you can see the new anti-chafe pads, the new PVC flap board chocks - tethered to the coamings so they do not get lost - and the gun rest in place. The rod simply sets loosely in the chocks and it set aside as needed.






Almost done....


SJS

 

[Steve Sanford]

Final Innings - Part 4


Heavy decoy line gets fastened - via bowline - to an eye strap at the forward end of each floorboard.







A generous length of line allows the gas tank or other gear to be secured for travel. I used to use "bungees" for this - but have become all too aware of the hazard posed by hooks flying near my (one good) eye under the tension of shock cord. I use them in some instances - but very sparingly, and usually where they will be safely at arm's length.






Here is everything in place. You can see how the turnbutton is mounted on a pad that fits within the floorboard slot.






The spray shield gets attached late in the going - so it's not in my way as I work in the cockpit. As you see here, some extra fasteners help the flange of the shield conform snugly to the crown of the deck. I used to set the shield in 3M 5200 - but see no need now. It went on dry as it is plastic against plastic - so no risk of rot.






All top-coated and done - and ready to emerge from the shop.






Once again in space - awaiting the trailer.






Out into the sun.



The duck's eye view - courtesy of the Pencil Brook Air Squadron. Note the chock-and-bail for the pushpole.







A closer look at the cockpit. Note that the flappers are in their upright position - as they would be for crossing the bay, not for hiding.







Stern deck details.






Stay tuned for the final batch of portraits....


SJS

 

[Steve Sanford]

The Last Inning


From her bow quarter.







Profile.






Here's the bow light in its new stanchion. It lives in the tool kit until it is needed.







Cockpit cover keeping everything dry.







The bail for the upper end of the pushpole.






The chock for the lower end. The loop of shock cord is used when crossing the bay or trailering - but not when actively moving the boat around the rig.






Here are the flap boards down in hiding position. You can see why the gun rest is needed to keep the muzzle pointed away from the gunner's boots and up out of the cockpit.






Another view - from the stern quarter.






The shock cord holds the flappers up when motoring.






The cord is stowed right on either flapper when not needed.






The staff in Pencil Brook R&D are still developing a way to hold the flap boards level when they are down. ( A challenge on this vessel because we retained the original low blocks that support the flappers.)







Now we wait for photos from the October 28 Duckboat Show - with motor and thatch.


All the best,


SJS

 

[Brandon2684]

Pictures don't do it justice. The boat came out absolutely beautiful Steve! Thanks again! Looking forward to what the R&D department comes up with lol. She'll be getting grassed this week and will be at Cedar marina on the 28th.

 

[Steve Sanford]

Brandon~


I'm so glad you are happy with your vessel. I just made the support blocks for your flap boards. They are simple Mahogany blocks - but critically shaped and fitted to the South Bay deck contours betwixt the thatch rails and rub rails. They are now sealed with epoxy - and will get paint and hardware over the next couple of days. Then, they'll migrate down to you via USPS.


All the best,


SJS

 

[Brandon2684]

Thanks Steve!

 

[Eric Patterson]

Steve

Every boat restoration you do seems to present a new set of challenges and you keep coming up with creative solutions and refining them. No two restoration are alike.

I would love to hear more about the process for rolling boats over. I can see you have chain hoists at each end and attachment points on the top and bottom of the hull. I hazard to guess you lower the boat and rest/balance it on its sheer while you switch chain attachment points and then use the hoists to raise and complete the flip. Am I on track? How hard is this to do by yourself? We need to get Anthony to film a hull rollover! I've been looking into various means to accomplish the same thing in my shop. My trusses span 40' so I don't feel comfortable attaching to them. They weren't engineered for it. I can make a couple gantry cranes but dadgum they would hog up a lot of space for their number of uses. I guess I could weld couple sized for the relatively light load of a duckboat hull and store them outside. Hmmmm. We have used manpower to flip my Brant and a jon boat in the past couple of weeks and will do it again tonight. I need a means to roll a boat that doesn't involve the "crew."

As always, excellent work, which happens to be well timed as I progress on my Brant refurb and am always looking for ideas and inspiration.

Eric

 

[Capt Rich Geminski]

Always great to see another boat restored. Also all the new innovations you come up with. My southbay went to the original family that purchased it originally. Have a project going now.

 

[Anthony Babich]

Looking great as usual Capt. Show will be here quick i'll have the Baur on display along with the TDB! Looking forward to it!
Managed to get her grassed up in the hour window we have on our rainy weekends as usual!
See you soon

 

[Steve Sanford]

Good morning, Rich~


Now I want to hear about your project! Coming to Cedar Beach?


SJS

 

[Steve Sanford]

Good morning, Eric~


Flipping any of the vessels in my shop has been eased tremendously by the pair of chain hoists (what my father-in-law used to call chain falls) that I can hang from various points along the center line of the "boat bay" in my shop.. When I built the shop, I doubled up the 2x12 joists that span the 20-foot width. The doubled joists have spacers of half-inch plywood every couple of feet. A series of half-inch carriage bolts drop through them. I had plates made so that a heavy steel rectangle serves as a washer up in the loft. These plates distribute the weight across the 2 joists - and are inletted into the loft floor so they lay flush.


I have eye nuts (and washers) on about 5 different carriage bolts - which allow me to lift vessels from 12' to about 18' LOA (someday I plan to test them on my Rhodes 19 sailboat).


Flipping most gunning boats is straightforward. I have a sound attachment point at both bow and transom. I often tie the heavy hooks of the hoists to the boat with a short length of 1/2-inch line to avoid chafe and to allow the contortion of flipping. I lift the boat off the trailer or horses high enough so that its beam will just barely touch the floor when I turn it on its gunwale. I stand mid-boat and s-l-o-w-l-y ease it over.


South Bay Duckboats present a special challenge because of the notch in the stern. But, I use it to my advantage. When I flipped it upright just last week, I first did two things.


1. At the bow, I fastened the hoist (via rope) to the pad eye on the deck (which is facing the floor because the boat is bottom up). I started the line and chain on the north side of the vessel. I took up the slack 'til it was taut.



2. At the stern, I fastened the hoist (via much longer rope) to the eye bolt on the stern deck (facing the floor) then ran it northward out to the rubrail and took up the slack 'til it was taut.


Next, I raised the bow to a height about half the beam. Then - with heart somewhat in throat - I slowly raised the stern whilst standing close to amidships, with one hand on the hoist chain and one on the boat. When at about half-beam elevation, I let the gunwale down onto the floor. Now I could let go of the chain hoist and - with both hands - lift the almost weightless hull up enough to bring the gunwale north. Then I could slowly let it rise back to level.


The next step is to put the horses (I have 3 heights) or trailer beneath the hull and lower it onto them.


The trait I like most about chain hoists is that they are infinitely adjustable - unlike pulleys or winches. With just gentle pulls, one can raise or lower as slowly as needed and put the boat within a fraction of an inch in height. This is especially helpful when fitting a hull to a trailer.


BTW: I got my chain hoists from Harbor Freight. I think I paid $40 each. As they live inside my shop - never used outside - and I am dealing with hundreds of pounds, not thousands, I opted to not buy the $300 hoists. Nevertheless, I have a pair of hooks out of the way on which I hang/store them when not in use. (And, I occasionally borrow one when I need to lift the "bow" of my lawn tractor for repairs in my car barn.)


Make sense?


SJS

 

[Steve Sanford]

All~


The owner has put some nice long Salt Hay where it belongs for the next few months.



Here it is on just the new spray shield and flap boards - both are which are much larger than their predecessors.






From the bow quarter.






From astern. You can see he left a gap amidships - until he installs the blocks descrfibed below.







He will be getting a pair of "flap board support blocks" in today's mail. After he installs them - to keep the board level when down - he'll just add power to the new motor board.


NOTE: Those light cleats are just for holding the boat against the saltmarsh - via a light line (1/4-inch) and "marsh stakes" or "bog spikes" when gunning - and NOT for holding to a dock or trailer.







All the best,


SJS

 

[Dani]

You did an awesome job Steve! I enjoy following the boat rebuilding/refurbishing processes that you post.

 

[Eric Patterson]

Steve

Thanks for the boat hoist information. There is a lot of good information there I'm sure I'll refer to when it's time for me to come up with a different solution than getting a bunch of hunting buddies to come to the shop to flip the hull.

Eric

 

[MIKE-SID]

Beautiful work. I love it! I want a South Bay more every time you post a restoration.