Tiller Extension Breaking Linkage?

Mike Trudel

Well-known member
I have a piece of pvc on my tiller handle so I can reach it as my decks put me several feet forward of a boat with no decking. It is cut out so the kill switch can be used.

My problem is the original handle frame, where it connects to the engine, broke from the increased torque. The piece is cast and my worry is, even with a new tiller handle, this could be an on going problem. Is there a way to strengthen this connection? My motor is a 25hp Evinrude.

Tonight the handle broke completely off at high speed, but I quickly hit the kill button. The motor may have been stressed from the last day of duck season, since this is the first day I have had this boat out since December (when Pete McMiller talked me into running the "rapids" on the last day of the season). I knew we hit some rocks. My motor was also knocked 2" over on the transom.

Just a side note..all the ducks worked to the side of the rapids we put the boat in, so running them was not really necessary. Some guys have to run all over to hunt or fish, when the best sport is near the landing!
 
Mike, I don't know if any reenforcement is really necesary. I had to replace the part you are talking about after my boat took a trip off the trailer into the weeds but that again is extreme (kinda like knocking the motor sideways on the transom). Good move on the kill switch, I wouldn't want to be out without one. Let's see if anyone else has an idea but I think they are pretty strong as they are. Good idea to ge the boats out and find the weak links while it is warm. ;-)
 
Mike, do you think the extra "leverage" put on the tiller by the extension in trailering could have contributed? The tiller bouncing withthe extra weight of the extension akin to those dolts that tilt their motor by pushing down on the tiller?

T
 
Mike, Mike, Mike,

It couldn't have been from hitting something in the rapids. If you remember you made Doug and I jump out of the boat and PUSH YOUR BOAT A QUARTER MILE UP THE RAPIDS while you steered. If I remember right, that was after I guided you to the hot spot where we could view eagles and coyotes while gunning those galloping Golden Eyes. Tsk tsk it's amazing how memories fade - must be all those paint fumes.
 
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Mike, Mike, Mike,

It couldn't have been from hitting something in the rapids. If you remember you made Doug and I jump out of the boat and PUSH YOUR BOAT A QUARTER MILE UP THE RAPIDS while you steered. If I remember right, that was after I guided you to the hot spot where we could view eagles and coyotes while gunning those galloping Golden Eyes. Tsk tsk it's amazing how memories fade - must be all those paint fumes.
Pete



I don't believe either one of you!! The real truth has escaped,, never to be heard from again.
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Most of the guys here run some sort of tiller extenders or another. I have used PVC and wondered about increasing the leverage too. Have had no tiller failure yet, but I will always wonder when or if it is going to happen. I try not to put the helm over too hard when using an extender and I've rigged mine so as to be able to use the kill switch (smaller piece (diameter) PVC inside the tiller extender that sets up against the kill button and extends about 1/2 " out of the tiller extender. In rough water I sit down and remove the extender and use the standard tiller.

If it broke once it may well do it again when you least need that to happen.

Let us know what you do,
Harry
 
I'm about to start running an extension on my Nissan 25 for the first time, so I've given some thought to your question and I'm still confused. Why does the tiller extension increase the stress on the handle bracket? Have you cranked down on the friction lock that increases the force required to pivot the motor? Are you rotating the motor hard against the stops in a full over turn? Otherwise the load on the bracket should be the same. Your hand on the tiller resists the twisting torque from the motor and supplies the force required to pivot the motor to turn. Both those loads should remain the same, so the bracket shouldn't see additional loading. The one possible exception is when you hit something and the handle jerks, with the increased leverage and ability to resist the jerk, you may increase the impact load on the bracket. Sounds like a stretch but then I've never hit anything hard enough to shift the motor on the transom (maybe because it's bolted).

Note to self: Tod's idea of the added weight bouncing around during trailering is certainly worth checking out. I was planning on leaving the extension attached.

I'm looking forward to hearing about what loads I missed.

Scott
 
I have always used PVC pipe as a tiller extension with no problems on my work skiffs, however, my only Evinrude tiller motor was a Commercial 55 (some years ago) and they had some kind of plastic inner "shaft" under the twist grip and inside the tiller that would crack and break if the tiller took a shock with the extension on. The added leverage is what did it.
Never had that happen with any other engine. Of course only Evinrude made a crap tiller.
Nowadays it seems most of the stock tillers are lengthened from the factory and extensions are not needed as much.
 
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