Tools for working styrofoam

B

bob Petritsch

Active member
I have been using a rough wood rasp for shaping my styrofoam blocks. Fast but rough,sometime knocking more off than I expected. I also find it doesn't work well on closer work. The rasp is rounded on one side and flat on the other.
Any recommendations for getting a smoother surface. These are styrofoam blocks I get from Tractor Supply. They are 18"X12"x12". I use a hot wire to cut them in half to make an18X6X10 inch scooter. I put them on a belly board and haven't settled on a head yet. Probably five quarter by six with foam cheeks.
 
I have been using a rough wood rasp for shaping my styrofoam blocks. Fast but rough,sometime knocking more off than I expected. I also find it doesn't work well on closer work. The rasp is rounded on one side and flat on the other.
Any recommendations for getting a smoother surface. These are styrofoam blocks I get from Tractor Supply. They are 18"X12"x12". I use a hot wire to cut them in half to make an18X6X10 inch scooter. I put them on a belly board and haven't settled on a head yet. Probably five quarter by six with foam cheeks.
Click to expand...

Sandpaper?
 
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Files/Dragon_Hand-cut_Rasp.html

Get the fine. If you are working large blocks, you need the long rasp. It is excellent for wood too.
 
Whoa how I wish I knew how to post pictures.
But anyway......
I make my foamers out of the blue dock foam that is found regularly on the brushline of our salt marshes, earning me the nickname "Capt. Wrackline".....thank you Steve for that....
I use a handsaw to cut the basic tear drop shape, then begin with a Stanley rasp for general shaping and then I move to those black sponge blocks that are fantastic. I then have various rasps, files and sure-form tools for the roll out and tail detail.
 
I use pine heads with a lag screw up through the keel. I dig out a groove in the bottom and rest the keel in it on a bead of silicone. I also put a bead of silicone in the "cup" where the head sits and tighten the lag just enough to squeeze a bit of silicone, clean that up and done. If you over tighten, you'll make the rear end of the keel pull out of the grove and be crooked.
 
Paul, that's where a wood tail comes in kinda handy. Not only does it protect the aft end of the toy duck, I also run a screw up thru the keel into the tailboard too...


Jon
 
Last edited:
Yes Jon, I have done that too, but I only experimented with luan thus far because I burlap right over it. I was concerned about a seam that wouldn't seal top and below the wood....but I did run a screw up through it now that I recollect.
 
Tried the foam block. Got the roughest one I could get and it worked great. Especially when bent over double the foam worked great especially on the area between the wings.
I cut out some 5/4 stock as a head and glued I" blue foam to the wood and craved out a nice head. I'll use 6" screws to go through the belly board and into the head.
 
I use 3/8" ply for my tailboards. I burlap first. Then I use a jig to run the decoy thru a table saw with a Dado blade, of course set at the appropriate angle and such, then Gorilla Glue in the board. After it sets up, I then run the screw thru up thru the keel and into the tailboard. Trim off the excess Urethane glue, seal the end of the tail and seam where the tail channel was cut into the body with a good quality caulk. Add a couple coats of sealer, paint, let dry and go hunting.

20160207_112214.jpg


20160207_110550.jpg


These particular toy ducks do not need a keel, hence no screws. However, here is how I do the sawing and prep for such. (Only pics I have...)

Jon
 
John, I like your "jig" idea for the tailboard cut out. There have been times i have wanted to add tailboards to bobtails your jig would be the answer.

Paul, On foamers and blackcork try using a spade bit to drill a hole in the bottom rear of the decoy body, glue in a 1"piece of dowel to anchor the keel to.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top