Trailer axle, bearing and tire size questions.

[Brandon Yuchasz]

Now that Dwight is safe and sound in MN I thought I might as well post my question on trailers for the "experts" to chime in on. I put experts in quotes because I suspect Dave will be back from the boundary waters soon and I want him to feel free to post.

I trailer around 6000 miles a year the largest stint of that is a week long trip that adds up to 3000 miles. This is all done with my 16 foot Garvey and the surface drive 35hp is on it. The entire package is heavier then you would think, add to that hunting gear in the boat during the trip and its a heavy load. It all sits on a tilt roller trailer with a square axle ( I am told they are older and weaker then a round axle) it has five lug 12x5.30 tires. Its always seemed like a lot of weight for the trailer or more specifically the axle and bearings and I do seem to wear through lots of tires over the years. Last year in Ohio I had a bearing fail but it was due to the loss of a bearing buddy I was able to get the spindle repaired at a local shop. They welded it up and ground to back to round. A new hub and bearing and It was rolling again and made it back here to the UP with no issues.

So lately I have been considering two options, my dad has offered to give me his galvanized bunk trailer from his 19 foot Bayliner, his boat never leave the boat house / lake so a trailer is almost never needed. It has 14 or 15 inch tires with 5 lugs on it. Axle seems beefier and with the consideration of the weight of his boat that was on it I believe the axle is a higher weight rating. The other option would be to step up to a larger weight class axle on my trailer, killing a few birds with one stone. I would get a new axle, so no nagging feeling about the welded repair to my spindle and I would also as a bonus get new leaf springs. I like the trailer I have not I can crank onto the roller when the launches are less then launches in Canada and I can tilt the trailer at those same launches. I would have to give that up with my dad's trailer but the larger tires seem like a nice option.

My final question is are the bearing packs different in the trailers like my dad's with larger tires or with a new heavier axle for my trailer? Are they better, bigger or in any way different or am I really just looking and less heat due to larger tires but similar hubs and bearings?

 

[Capt Rich Geminski]

Larger tires are a plus, less rotations of the tire. Bunks are usually lower, easier to launch. The buddy bearings came in two or three sizes. Worth the investment. You also must think about the support to the boat hull.

 

[R.A. Nevins]

I towed a boat every day as a Marine Patrol Officer when there was open water, about 15,000 miles per year x 8 years. These are my observations. Run radials. Get as big a tire as you can that doesn't make it a problem getting the boat in and out of the water. Use bearing buddies and give them a squirt of grease them once every 2,000 or so. If a seal is blowing grease out the back change it out. Check that your tongue wgt. is good after you load your boat with gear. Keep a spare tire/rim in your tow rig and a can or two of fix-a-flat. Never think about it if I'm doing those things. Would go cross country and back on a good set of tires.

 

[Matthew R. Snyder]

www.championtrailers.com is a real good source of knowledge, both online and over the phone. Whenever I've had to buy an axle (or anything else) I have had good luck with them. Good prices too.

I tow a boat with a nominal, dry, hull + motor weight of about 1200 lb.. I run a 3500 lb. rated axle and 15" wheels, radial tires, bearing buddies. I don't feel the slightest bit over-axled. Only thing I would change about the setup is I'd rather have spindle-lubes than bearing buddies; if either bearing ever takes a dump I'll just scrap the whole axle and buy a spindle lube from Champion.

I've put well over 100,000 miles on boat trailers set up like this and in all that time I've had two or three flats, one non-catastrophic broken axle (on a 1200 lb. rated axle), and zero bearing failures.

 

[Huntindave McCann]

The other option would be to step up to a larger weight class axle on my trailer, killing a few birds with one stone. I would get a new axle, so no nagging feeling about the welded repair to my spindle and I would also as a bonus get new leaf springs. I like the trailer I have not I can crank onto the roller when the launches are less then launches in Canada and I can tilt the trailer at those same launches.

Brandon,

Given the info you have shared, I’d stay with your present trailer frame and upgrade the axle and spring components. That way you don’t give up the features you now have and like. Choose an new axle with hubs which will accept the larger tires like your dad's trailer has. Not only will the bigger tires run cooler and last longer, the bigger tires will impart less road stress to the trailer frame. (The larger tire will not drop as deep into a rut or pot hole and the resulting shock and impact will be less)

If when installing the new axel,” boat height” becomes an issue, you may be able to compensate by (a) using a “drop axle” or (b) installing the axle above the springs rather than below the springs.

If the new springs are too stiff for the weight you will be carrying, removing a leaf will make for a smoother ride for your boat and contents.
Feel free to give me a call if there is something you would like to discuss or have further explanation.

My final question is are the bearing packs different in the trailers like my dad's with larger tires or with a new heavier axle for my trailer? Are they better, bigger or in any way different or am I really just looking and less heat due to larger tires but similar hubs and bearings?

Yes, the new axel should also automatically give you an upgrade in bearing diameter and load capacity of the bearings.