trailer bearing size

Chris S.

Chris S.

Well-known member
With all the talk about blown tires and bearings seized up I was thinking of taking a look at my bearings and if need be replace them. Last season I kinda stayed put or at least my sneakbox did. I only trailered it the 3miles to the ramp and back. This season I plan on taking the sneakbox to new places my trip will be 1 1/2 hours one way with a top speed of 60mph and wanna make sure I don't run into any trouble that I could have prevented. My trailer is an old one but does the job. It has the 4.80X8in tires. Are the bearings on that size tire all the same? Does it depend on the axle size. Or will I just have to pull it apart to check to see what I need as far as size. What would you guess the bearing size would be for a small trailer with these size tires. Any help would be great thank you for the help.
 
Chris, the tire size is independant of the bearings, and I have seen a wide range... granted, I usually am picking up cheap or free trailers and doing a refurb on them, but the best bet is to take the bearings out and measuring them. Bearings are cheap, even good ones, so don't just hit Walmart or Harbor Freight, either order on-line or find a trailer supply local, they will have all the sizes and generally are better quality. Of coarse, if you keep them well lubed, and free of salt water, even the cheap bearings are good enough.
 
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Like Dave noted, tire size is no indication of bearing size.
If you know the brand and serial number of the trailer, you can usually search for what size bearings you need.
 
Yep to all above. I've found the two most common boat trailer bearing sizes are bearing L44694 (1.063-inch width) and L44643 (1-inch width).
 
Like Dave noted, tire size is no indication of bearing size.
If you know the brand and serial number of the trailer, you can usually search for what size bearings you need.[/reply


The trailer is and old one I think its called holwscal or something like that. I did a search a while back and didn't find much. I will pull it apart and go from there.

Is there anything else I should check or replace while I am in there? Thanks for the help.
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This is a trailer like that it came with the sneakbox its newer year then the sneakbox but you wouldn't know it. I just cleaned it up and painted it added new LED lights but didn't mess with the tires or bearings. What else should I check or replace while I have the tires and bearings off.

My sneakbox is over at Bill Simenson's shop while I am replacing the motor board. I will take a look at the bearings while over there. I am sure Bill can help me with checking things out. Thanks for the help

Dave,
I will see you at Tuckerton not sure if I am going both days or not but will be there at some point. When it gets closer remind me about those mallard decoys so I don't forget em.
 
I'd find a local bearing supply near you pull yours and go over try to match yours up with some high quality Timkens or similar keep em greased with heavy machinery grease and maintain grease levels on them regularly with bearing buddies
 
This is a trailer like that it came with the sneakbox its newer year then the sneakbox but you wouldn't know it. I just cleaned it up and painted it added new LED lights but didn't mess with the tires or bearings. What else should I check or replace while I have the tires and bearings off.

My sneakbox is over at Bill Simenson's shop while I am replacing the motor board. I will take a look at the bearings while over there. I am sure Bill can help me with checking things out. Thanks for the help

Dave,
I will see you at Tuckerton not sure if I am going both days or not but will be there at some point. When it gets closer remind me about those mallard decoys so I don't forget em.
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With an older trailer any part of the suspension can be bad. Springs, u bolts, frame, bushings, bolts, etc... Look at it all.

You need to get new inner seals if you are going to crack the hubs open.

T
 
Tod, makes a very good point....my trailer came from LI NY, and was in the salt. Though galvanized it has some rust, and I keep an eye on things. Just the last weekend I decided I wanted to lower the trailer, by moving the axle above the springs, gaining ~4 inches or so.... well the 1/2" u-bolts that held the axle, were rusted to 3/8" or so in a few spots, and cut pretty easy with a sharp sawzall blade! Fortunately a BBSB is light, so not much stress on most trailers, but there are components that will fail if neglected.
 
Bearing size is more related to weight rating of the trailer. If you replace the bearing, replace the races and seals. If you have the smaller bears, there will be more heat. Use a good grease that will hold up to the heat. Pack the hubs with grease so when you install them there will be no voids at all. Seals keep grease in and not the water out. No voids no water no rust.
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Don't forget to put a set of Bearing Buddys on there. They will also add some extra life to your hubs, races and bearings. Get a small greese gun and pump them up every now and then. They are very easy to install and you can see how much greese is in there by checking the diaphragm.
 
Look on the flat edge of the bearing for the bearing number then match as needed keep in mind timken and bauer are 2 top of the line bearing companys.
Remember to change the inside seal. the bearing along with the races. Then pack with a marine grade grease.
I use bearing buddys but I am not sure they do much good. It seems they grease the outside, not the inside bearing.
 
Chris, Like you I dip my trailers in saltwater fairly often. To ensure reliable bearing life I upgraded my two small trailers to a grease through hub system 10+ years ago. I bought mine from Cabela's but they don't seem to carry them any more. This is the Jamestown link but there are plenty of other suppliers.

super-lube-hub-kit.jpg


Unlike bearing buddies, these hubs let you use new grease to push the old grease and contaminants out of the bearings, effectively repacking the bearings in place. A couple of times a season simply remove the rubber plug in the outer end and pump grease in until fresh grease comes out of the bearings in a full 360 degree flow. If you ever see grease thrown out past the inside oil seal, you'll know it's time to change out the seal. Only problems I've had to date is due to the fact they use press in zerk fittings. After a bunch of years one set loosened up and wouldn't stay in place when removing the grease gun. I corrected by drilling the hubs out and tapping for 1/8" NPT zerks. Select assembly by spindle size and number & pattern of lug bolts to fit your existing wheels.

Further, listen to Tod, Dave & others and check out everything. I had a leaf spring break two seasons ago at the ramp (probably 20+ years old). Luckily it was a ramp close to home and I called Barb (wife) to bring me my tool box and jacks and she sat and guarded the boat and trailer while I drove around looking for a replacement spring and u-bolts. I located the only spring in the area. I subsequently called all around looking for the second and couldn't find one, had to order it. Apparently I was wicked lucky finding it and get back home. DHBP friends have since pointed out that the axle can be spaced off with wood blocks and strapped in place to get home. Anyway check it all out!

Scott
 
A point I would like to make is that you should be tearing down and repacking your bearings at the end of EACH season. I used to wait until spring to do mine, but found that if there was water intrusion, it would rust the bearings during the winter. Now I do it before putting it into storage and have not had a problem. I can't believe how many people will spare no expense for their boat and then neglect the trailer that sits under it.
 
I can't believe how many people will spare no expense for their boat and then neglect the trailer that sits under it.
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That is a very good point terry. I spent all that time and money when refurbing my sneakbox only to use this old trailer and not check the wheels and bearings.

Thanks for all the great info guys.
 
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