Transom Cut-down on a Starcraft?????

Carl

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Found an old Starcraft in great shape at a really great price.
Has the walk-thru layout I have been looking for and deep sides too.
Problem is that it has a 20" transom & I have a 15" shaft motor.
What do y'all think about notching the transom to fit my motor?
I would re-cap it with U channel, secured with stainless bolts.
Any pitfalls?
Thanks!
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I did it on an old bomber style bass boat. The type that had stick steering in the bow. The only issue I had was I had to go to a tiller because the cable tube was unaccessable after cutting a notch in the transom.

Good luck. I wish I still had my old Starcraft. That's a great boat.

Take care,

Ed L.
 
Thing that would bother me would be water intrusion at the stern. Personally, I'd get another motor rather than cut down the stern but then, I'm hunting Lake St. Clair and that lake will bury you if you're not careful. It can kick up mean and quick so.................I like a high transom.

You could also look at adding a new transom mounted, motor mount that is lowered down to where you need it and thus, still keep the high transom.
Lou
 
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It gets a little choppy down here, but I am not too worried about that aspect.
However, your point about a bracket is well taken, I've seen them on the market, will look into it.
 
Steering cables wont be a problem, I'm going to take out the console & use it as a tiller-steer.
 
Carl,

With a tiller, a bracket most probably won't solve your problem unless you go with a really hung off the stern bracket if one even exists. When I added the jack plate to my Starcraft I had to open up my transom plugs to allow full tiller motion and control access. I'd recommend making the cut but keeping it as tight to the motor as possible for best water resistance. Then think hard about adding a splash well although it adds an additional penetration in the transom that could lead to wood rot around it. I didn't add the splash well pretty much for that reason as well as not wanting to loose the space behind the aft seat.

Scott
 
Carl,
build a splash well that has a front bulkhead that is the hight of the boats gunnels. The wells shelf tapers down to be low enough to go under the motors clamps. A pair of drain holes in the stern let the ocean back out. Works very well. I have built two dories and both had the well. A very good tool for the work required when setting decoys or nets. Keeps water on the outside of the cockpit where it should be. Makes a seat too.


The two pictures at the bottom of the page in the link show a couple of angles of the well.

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/vintage/sbj/016/index.htm
 
Build or buy and off-shore bracket to fit the motor specs. In the long run it will save time and money. Second alternative is a cnc plate
 
Carl,

For a splash guard as stated look up back trolling and walleye rigs. These guys will use a heavy clear vinyl when back trolling to keep the water out of the boat. Here's a link to a plexi/rubber type. http://www.wavewackers.com/

Good luck.

Ed L.
 
I've got to agreee w/Lou on this one,stick to the tall transom.
When I read the title of the post I thought about the old Sinkkcraft[Seacraft] low transom horror stories.
Remember how nasty our bay's can be.
Be Safe.
 
Carl,

Simply make your cutout as close to the motor as possible. While I was filling in the full low transom you should be able to get the idea.

sternshot.jpg


My starting point, the 15" transom:

transomhole.jpg


Sure would have been easier to start with the 20 inch transom. I did check with Nissan to see if they had a conversion kit for a 25 hp to make it a long shaft. If it was available I would have gotten the 20" transom and converted the motor. Still, I like what I ended up with.

Scott
 
Lots of good advice. Buying a new motor is not really an option at this point, nor is there an extension kit for my Nissan 18.
My thought is to notch it just enough to fit the motor clearances. I'm already running a 15" transom mv jon boat. Wont be doing any back-trolling. Even with a notch in it, this Starcraft will be a huge step up in safety and ride.
Will let you now how it works out!
 
Well, looks like I can buy the long housing! Just not sure it is worth the money to buy all the parts & change it when I can just cut down the transom. Having a short transom notch is just not that big a deal around here.
 
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