Transom Drain Tube Sealant

R

Robert Pinner

Member

I have a new project. I picked up a 12.5’ fiberglass jon yacht that I’m going to make into a small-water fishing and duck boat. I haven’t quite figured out the mods I want to make for hunting, but I just replaced the transom this weekend. My fiberglass job isn’t the most beautiful, but it’s sturdy and more than functional. I’m going to drill a new drain tube this weekend, and I have 2 questions:

1. Should I use 4200 or 5200? I know I want to use the black color, but why is one indicated over the other? I feel like the 5200 never gets hard. I like the idea of 4200 better, but I’d love to hear what you all think?

2. Should I buy a “bolt-style” flanging tool, or should I just use a “hammer-style” flanging tool?

[font=Arial, sans-serif]When I have a little more time, I'll post some pictures. I took some, but I need to sit down and put them in [/font][font=Arial, sans-serif]order[/font][font=Arial, sans-serif]. [/font]

Thanks so much for your time and your help!
 
I am pretty sure cure time is the only difference. I garuntee that 5200 gets hard, I am removing some this winter to do repair work on my Poleboat. Not easy!!! I think the 4200 is fast cure but there is an expert here who I'm waiting on to speak up.
 
No expert here , however if you never want to remove the plug use 5200, if you do need to remove it at some point 4200 is the way to go. If it were me I would go with 5200 it hangs on like a tick.
 
Robert~

I have used 5200 with good success. It cures to a hard rubber - a bit pliable but not going anywhere. I'd rough up the outside of your brass drain tube with 80-grit - and be sure to slather the 5200 thoroughly on both surfaces.

As you can see from my earlier post, it can be done without the right flaring tool - but the result with a ball peen hammer can be comparable.

Go to my March 31 post in this epic tale: http://www.duckboats.net/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=280953;do=post_view_flat;page=-1

All the best,

SJS

 
As stated in the last two posts if you do not want to remove it 5200 is the way to go.4200 is also a very good sealant and it is easier if you need to replace the drain tube at some point . When replacing thru hull fittings we use 5200. When replacing portholes and such we use 4200. Btw you can remove 5200 by applying heat,we use a super duty heat gun for that.In regards to the drain tube we usually cut it to length ,then insert it,peen over.
 
Thanks so much for the quick replies! I picked up some 5200 on the way home today. I bought a 3” brass drain plug, but I only need about 2-1/4” or so. How much excess should I preserve for peening over when I trim it?
 
One thing that no one said is that ALWAYS use the FAST CURE whether its 5200 or 4200.
Phil
 
Phil said:
One thing that no one said is that ALWAYS use the FAST CURE whether its 5200 or 4200.
Phil
Click to expand...

I don’t like how the fast cure 4200 is to work with, I can tool plain ol 5200 more nicely an no rush.
 
Robert~

You'll need to trim it 1/8" to 3/16" longer for peening.

One challenge is to cut the tube without distorting its round cross-section. After seeing that my tubing cutter (for copper pipe) would crush it out-of-round, I instead put a 1" dowel inside the drain tube so I could cut it with a hack saw. I wrap with masking tape to mark the line I want to cut. The sawn edge can be cleaned up with sandpaper.

All the best,

SJS

 
Phil and Tod, I got the fast cure. Thanks for the heads up!

Steve, I was thinking about using PVC as an inner “brace,” but a dowel will be sturdier. That’s a great idea. Thanks! I love the thread you sent me. The history of that boat makes the restoration all-the-more endearing. I’m getting the foundation of this boat completed now. As time permits, I’m not sure how I’ll specifically adapt her for waterfowling. But your posts are a dazzling source of inspiration.
 
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