TUTORIAL - Rehabbing a Bean's Pintail

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
I have noticed a certain behavior among many of my Long Island friends of late. It seems that the almost-worn-out decoys are produced - usually preceded by a last minute, "Oh, by the way...." and a sheepish glance - at the end of a conversation, just before I head north. I usually head north with an assortment of "patients" - decoys needing somewhere between TLC and ICU.....

This is just one bird - a Bean's Coastal Pintail Drake - not a whole rig. And, I either never took a "before" photo or simply cannot find it on my hard drive. So, I can only offer this image of it after some rehabilitation had begun. As it came to me, it had no eyes and the head was loose.

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The process had been started by its owner. Most of the big voids in the refrigerator cork had been filled with foam - most probably an insulation foam from a can - a method I have used myself at times.

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The "sprig tail" was a piece of tubular plastic that seemed both pliable and tough. Alas, it displayed an unfortunate droop. One can only imagine picky hens avoiding the company of this particular drake.


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The first task was to re-attach the head. I actually did this months ago - when I had an open tube of 3M 5200 handy. It then sat on the bench until late last week.


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Before I put new eyes in it - 10 mm pinpoint pupil Brown - I carved around the eyes and a shallow "eye channel". I cleaned out and enlarged each eye socket with the Dremel.


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After setting the new eyes, I burned the rear edge of the bill - just as an aid to painting. The factory paint had the bill too high on the forehead.

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I also rounded off the edges on the keel - to minimize scuffing of other decoys.

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The tail next took my attention.

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I removed the cork with a knife and cleaned up the tail insert with a chisel.

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The new tail was cut from a piece of curved "rubber" - from beneath the front bumper of my son's 2002 Jetta wagon.

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I set everything in epoxy + fairing mix (cabosil and microballoons) + graphite powder (for the black color) and clamped it overnight.

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A saw, a rasp and sandpaper faired the cork. I added some shape to the tail with a knife. The tail is well-sanded so sealers and paints will stick to it.

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The bird was thoroughly coated with spar varnish and hung up and out to dry. These hooks are on the south side of my shop for just such a purpose. The "hoods" over the windows keep out the hot summer sun.

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Next was priming - with flat oils. I prime in finish tones so the usual wear does not reveal a starkly contrasting undercoat. It would certainly hunt well enough in this "plumage".

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But, I need to get the colors just right....mostly my usual Behr Ultra sample jars from Home Depot.

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I always work from the tail forward. The Flat Black oil needed no more topcoat so I just painted the outer tail feathers - Mocha Accent (720-D).

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For the flanks, I added some Yellow Oxide (tube acrylic) to some White. It was a bit too pale so I brightened it up with some straight Yellow Oxide. Probably a bit too strong now - but I doubt it'll flare any birds. Note that the flank patches extend much further aft than the factory paint - and so the black tail section is much smaller.

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The back was graded - from Elephant Skin (PPU 18-16) up forward - into Intellectual (PPU-18-19) aft, covering the tertials and primaries. These greys are much warmer than the primer - which is just a black + white grey - a "cool" color.

I drooped the tertials over the sides AFTER the sides (Elephant Skin) had dried to the touch. I maintained crisp edges on the "black crescent" so it would stand out.

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I add just enough White accents to suggest the drooping of the tertials and scapulars and their coverts.

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The "racing stripes" on the bill use the same blue-grey I use for Drake Broadbill. It's a little sample jar I picked up a while back from Benjamin Moore. You can mix it with White + Ultramarine Blue + Raw Umber.

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The face is done with Espresso Beans (PPU-6-1). I always bring the white neck stripe forward on the curve of the head - an egregious misrepresentation of the Natural Order of Things - but I like the way it looks. The breast got a final coat of White latex. And, I painted the lower eyelid a pale Grey - just for fun. It always adds apparent depth to the eye.


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Here it is ready once again for a winter on Great South Bay.

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BTW: If you are painting a rig of Pintails, I have a simple Hen paint job on my site at: http://stevenjaysanford.com/pintail/

Hope this helps,

SJS
 
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"[font=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]The new tail was cut from a piece of curved "rubber" - from beneath the front bumper of my son's 2002 Jetta wagon"

does he know yet??


as always - great job
[/font]
 
Steve: Nice job on the pintail as well as your other LL Bean rehabs. You are now officially duckboats " Decoy Doc-greatest cosmetic surgeon of the Beans." :) Thanks for taking the time & effort to share these tutorials with us. Always enjoy your posts.


Ken Zaborski





 
Steve, Suggestion, What I use that works very well for Pintails, Old Squaw etc, Pick up a Black Plastic Small garbage Can At Bed Bath & Be/on, You can cut it in any shape you want as well as use several pieces for the tail ,Heat it with a heat Gun you can form curved shapes etc. . Try it you may like it, Screw I glue it in with epoxy & run a small brass up through Wood Or Masonite tail so it cant be pulled out . I will keep you informed as the Sneak Box Progresses. PAUL
 
Wow! Wouldn't call it a rehab since it looks far better than it did in the store. Your work on breathing new life into an old worn out decoy always amazes me. Your wildfowler goldeneye is another example of better now than before. Got a half dozen repaints that I wish could look half as good as your work but I know better than to try. I was not born with that ability and can never learn. Keep up the posts always great reading and pictures.

Chris
 
"I have noticed a certain behavior among many of my Long Island friends of late. It seems that the almost-worn-out decoys are produced - usually preceded by a last minute, "Oh, by the way..."
You should thank those friends for trusting you with there prized decoys....LOL
I have seen a lot of you rehabs and this may be your best ever.
Thanks,
 
Good morning, Paul~

I have had uneven luck with various plastics. I used some as tail inserts on some Canadas a couple of years ago that got brittle and cracked during late-season hunts. Also, when I have heated some, they do not seem to have enough "memory" to retain the curve. I chose the auto plastic/rubber because I figured they must be engineered to withstand a broad range of temps. I also have had good luck with some industrial tubs from my dairy farmers.

We gunners need to be good scroungers AND biochemists.....

Thanks again for keeping the Sneakbox info flowing.

All the best,

SJS
 
Good morning, Bill~

I am indeed flattered to be trusted by my friends - and glad you like the results.

All the best,

SJS
 
Good rehab, Steve. I noticed it had sustained some bill damage and had a NOSE JOB at an earlier time. You did a heckuva good job on the bill repaint. It is no longer noticeable!
 
Paul~

Inspired by your ideas - I made the best of my trip to our "transfer station" this morning:

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This is the same type of tub I have gotten from my farmers. It is about 1/8" thick. I can use the lid and bottom for flat stuff and cut across the sidewalls for Pintail and Oldsquaw tail inserts. I am hoping to make a few Black Ducks for my own "carry in" rig later this year. I will use black cork with plastic tail inserts. In any event, this supply will last me a long while.

All the best.

SJS
 
Steve...I had previously sent you the picture of the Bean Pintail with the WPSC on the bottom.....after seeing your bird I'm tempted to send it to you for a "make over you have to see to believe".....would seem like a good "second career" for it.......never been a real big fan of the Beans because the body shapes are so generic and the heads always seemed "awkward"....you've solved both of those problems.......heck given the Mexican Mallard I should send the Black Duck as well and you can do it as a Florida Mallard.......
I'd pull the trigger right now except that I note that some of the hooks on your drying rack aren't lined up with all the rest and I'm a bit concerned that I might not get the expected quality if the rest of your work slips like that.......re-assure me if you would that some miscreant twisted them out of alignment just to mess with you.....
Great job.....AS ALWAYS....


Steve
 
Wonderful job Steve! I appreciate you redeeming these old timers and giving them a new life otherwise destined to sit on the floor of a shed...

Nice work my friend. Pat
 
Steve. Good Idea as well, to bad you cant those containers in Black, One of the reasons I like the Lighter & more flexable Plastic from the garbage can is I have six compartments decoy bags from Cabelas for all my decoys & I put the decoys Tials down in on the bottom of the bag which the thinner & more flexible conforms better on the bottom of the bag. Have had no problem with tails breaking off etc. Speaking of Plastic When you want to make Tail curls on a drake mallard I use Black film canisters & just cut with scissors around the canister..which work very well. Thanks for your tip. Steve, Stay in touch. Paul
 
Beautiful work Steve and very educational. Your tutorial threads and those of others are a real treat to learn from. Thanks for all of your effort putting them together and sharing them.
 
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