Using a wood keel to stiffen an old aluminum boat.

G

GaryRI

Active member
A neighbor gave me an old 12' aluminum very sketchy boat to use rowing back & forth to my mooring. It will have to be dragged across 30-40' of sand beach (with some rocks) to get it to the waters edge. I already screwed on inner & outer wood gunwales I made out of left over decking to stiffen the sides so they won't flex when I row it. I'm thinking about using a PT 2x4, bedded in 3M 4200, as a sort of shoe keel.
I know it will get heavier but it is one very beat up aluminum boat.
 
I have no personal experience with this, but my understanding is that Aluminum and pressure treated wood do not mix. I know there is a chemical reaction between the two that causes the aluminum to decay. I do not know how long it would take to eat away the aluminum and I believe that exposure to saltwater may assist in the reaction.

It is at least worth looking into and perhaps someone here will post up more info regarding.

Chad
 
If I do wheels they'd be on a hand dolly. Flipping & turning to store isn't appealing. I'm also hoping that dragging it on sand is doable. It started out light but adding just 15 - 20 pounds can be the difference between easy & clumsy.
Bedding the keel in 3M 4200 should protect it from the chemicals in the PT but easy enough to just use a plain fir 2 x 4.
I used an old aluminum canoe to get back & forth for years & it didn't melt away.
 
Gary~

Your boat sounds VERY familiar. I once "rescued" a similar vessel from Bellport Bay. I had to add some oak along the gunwales to hold oarlock sockets. And, as it got older and older and more rivets failed along the keel, I committed the "last act of a desperate man" - I ran a 12" strip of Ice & Water Shield along her keel.... good enough for my freshwater pond - until I cut it up a few years ago.

More to your question, I think the 5200 would probably act as a chemical barrier between the treated and the metal. Do you need a 2x4? My experience is that 5/4 decking usually has much nicer grain and you can pick through to find a clear one. Also, I'd be tempted to rip it about 2" wide to save on weight AND to minimize the friction of dragging.

All the best,

SJS
 
5/4 decking is a consideration but whatever I use probably needs to be thicker. It needs to be "grooved" to fit the aluminum "keel" so the wood will fit flush
 
After years of dragging mooring boats, I would consider Daves wheel suggestion. So much easier on the back. Nice artwork Dave. Its simple and it works well.
 
Gary~

One more approach - a pair of beach rollers. These are traditional cedar & pine but I know they also make inflatables. One benefit is you can load your boat with everything you need then roll it to the water. This is how I usually get my Scooter over the beach to the ice. If you used rollers, you could put a pair of thinner shoes/strakes a few inches on either side of the keel - helps to keep the boat level on the rollers. If theft is not a big risk, you could store the boat right on the rollers.

BeachRollers1_zpse824e73d.jpg


All the best,

SJS
 
Hey Gary, I know guys here use as you are describing, 2 x 4's as ice runners, so to speak. With a light boat I'm wondering, if perhaps thicker 1-1/2 or 2" pvc tubing would work as runners? Maybe even put closet pole material in the tubing for added strength? Cap the bow end and leave the stern end open to allow any trapped water to escape. Just a thought, it would be light and I think hold up for your application.
To go along with Steve's roller suggestion, I use pvc as rollers to get my docks in and out each fall.
 
Working on this thing I'm going to try it without the added keel. The gunnels I put on it seems to have stiffened it up enough.
I paid 50 for the boat & have about another 100 in it so far (2 tubes of 3m 4200 were 40).
If it passes sea trials (not too clumsy to row) I'm thinking about having a local handyman put together a "beach dolly" for me. I'll just throw it in the boat when I'm done. Expect it'll cost me a $100.
 
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