Weight added by burlapping

Steve Sanford

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
FYI~

I just finished my first-ever burlapping - 10 Herter's Model 72 Broadbill. It takes about twice as long as it does to apply the epoxy + sawdust I have been trying since last year. I am sure the burlap + mastic produces a stronger, more durable decoy - but it was also clear while I was handling the birds that it adds more weight.

The burlapped bird is the one on the scale:

smWeight-BroadbillHens_zps97aa6bff.jpg


So, the scientist in me decided to see what the difference was, on average. I used our postal scale (which tops out at 5 lbs) to weight a 5-bird bird sample of each of 4 different types:

Original (flat-bottom) with epoxy + sawdust

Keel-bottom with factory paint

Keel-bottom with epoxy + sawdust

Keel-bottom with mastic + burlap

All sample batches included used decoys. So, some may have absorbed moisture; some had repairs (for example, some had heavier screw-eyes fastening the heads). Except for the factory-paint batch, all had the head-neck area reinforced with epoxy and 6-oz 'glass cloth - and all heads were coated with epoxy + sawdust. None had lost ballast weights. And, with one exception, all were Hens (that's the scientist in me again.....)

Here are the results:

smModel72BroadbillWeights_zps1e2dc508.jpg


The mastic + burlap adds about 8.8 ounces to each factory-painted bird. The epoxy + sawdust adds only about 1.6 ounces.

It was interesting that the Original flat-bottom birds were a bit heavier than the newer keeled ones. I believe several of the older ones had absorbed moisture over the years. My experience is that they never lose most of the moisture - like the open-celled styrofoam floatation in early boats. Also, I know that my (my Dad's) older birds were campaigned hard - and would see the water every day for the last 30 or 40 days of the seasons in the 1950s and 60s.

Now, on to the next batch....

SJS
 
Steve - Those look very good and I will bet you find they ride better in waves with the weight. I had some of the herters burlapped and they were great.
No question they are also easier to handle in cold wet conditions, except, they may ice up easier.
sarge
 
Steve,
I think you will like the burlap birds paint holds up better,if you are boat hunting weight should not be a major problem. I agree with sarge i think they ride better.
I have some 81's to wrap if i ever get my shop done.
 
steve,
what kind of mastic did you apply?
I was going to burlap a dozen herters geese I have, I am concerned about water softening up the mastic thru some shot holes in the future.

what are your thoughts on this, will the mastic soften up if the decoys develop a hole in them?
 
Tom~

I followed the advice of others and used AcrylPro - from Home Depot. I am presuming that, because it is designed for use with bathroom tiles, that it is waterproof once fully-cured - as with acrylic latex paint.

These are my first burlappers - and I have no experience using the technique - but I am sure others on this site have some useful knowledge.

All the best,

SJS
 
just has me worried, I know that if water intrudes on a tile wall , say the grout is not sealed or has some spots where water can come in , the tile will fall off the wall. after the mastic underneath becomes soft.

I may stick with epoxy and a sawdust slurry for filling holes and sealing, I have had good success with this with cork and wood.
 
Mastic is like concrete, cures up hard as a rock. No worries about water softening it up, if that happens (esp. in a shower or bath), someone used the wrong stuff!
I have been using a partial bucket of Acryla-Pro left over from when I finished our new bath back in 2006, still cures up hard as a rock.
One tip, wear kitchen gloves (latex or rubber), mastic is slightly caustic and will make your hands raw after a while.
 
Carl~

Thanks for the reassurance about the mastic - I was contemplating a new epoxy + kevlar technique to ward off the stray pellets....

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve,
I have been using acrylpro, two coats then two coats of sealer and one coat of primer and finish paint. You might want to try apoxie sculpt on the tails before wrapping,super hard.
Epoxy and kevlar,stray pellets???? surely we are not water swatting,haaaa.
Best wishes, Bill.
 
Carl~

Thanks for the reassurance about the mastic - I was contemplating a new epoxy + kevlar technique to ward off the stray pellets....

All the best,

SJS
Click to expand...

I just ordered some non blush epoxy and some cream epoxy filler to try on the geese. will post up some results when it arrives. kevlar sounds like it would work but may just be too much work involved with final sanding and getting it right.
 
Tom~

If you will be using the same epoxy + sawdust method I've been trying, here are some thoughts:

1) Best results if first coat of epoxy is allowed to cure as the sealer coat. Second coat gets sawdust sprinkled on it right away. (You can get away with a single coat if there's not a lot of absorption.) I work over a big plastic tray so most of dust goes back into the box (and not all over the bench and floor).

2) Use fine sawdust - from a band saw or sanding machine - not from a table saw.

3) Sawdust should absorb enough epoxy so that further sealing is unnecessary. I get any excess off (after full cure) with a whisk broom.

4) I use latex paints that are billed as primer + topcoat. So far (just one season) the paint has held up well.

Best of luck,

SJS
 
Carl~

Thanks for the reassurance about the mastic - I was contemplating a new epoxy + kevlar technique to ward off the stray pellets....

All the best,

SJS
Click to expand...






Stray pellets Steve???? Unheard of....

Nice remakes BTW.


 
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Troy~

From the drooping bill on that Eider, it looks like the "cripple-stopper" covered him up pretty well - time to send the dog....

All the best,

SJS
 
I have burlapped brant and they are holding up well. They were burlapped a few years ago and the are showing no sign of wear. While weight has been added it has not affected the way they ride, They ride great. As you know I took a hard fall on the decoys last season and only broke the heads no effect on the bodies.
I am not saying burlapping is better but it works for me.
 
Hi, Bill~

Before I burlap these birds, I first reinforce the head-to-body joint with a triangular "neckerchief" of 6-oz 'glass cloth and epoxy. My idea is to distribute the load as much as possible to minimize breakage. (Only time will tell if it really works......)

Neckreinforcement_zpsf8ee7eee.jpg


I also brush epoxy on the whole head (avoiding the bill and eye) and then sprinkle fine sawdust on it - so the head with have a nice rough texture. I love it that the heads cannot shine. I add silica (Cabosil) to the epoxy so the sawdust has more time to soak up the resin.

BTW: Did you ever get those Brant heads? I will be down on LI in a couple of weeks and can get them to you if you'd like.

All the best,

SJS
 
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