What do you use to sharpen knives?

Rick Kyte

Rick Kyte

Well-known member
Knowing that there are several guys on this form who are serious about the care and maintenance of their gear, I'm wondering what you use for sharpening/honing knives?

Rick
 
Rick,

I have a whole arsenal of sharpening stones, both diamond and natural. I use those most of the time and follow up with a strop for lapping the edge. I also have a Lansky sharpener which is easy to set up and use. It works well for hunting style knives. Not so well for thin or narrow bladed knives such as some fish fillet knives. For the person that wants something easy to use and almost fool proof, I would recommend one of the Lansky or similar sharpeners. Having the guided stones makes it super simple to produce a really nice edge. One nice thing about the Lansky is that it is non electric which makes it usable anywhere anytime.

(you could even use it in the boat when the ducking is slow) see now it is duck related :>)
 
Rick,

I've always used several Arkansas stones and a steel when sharpening my own knives. That is until I started sharpening for other people. In addition to stones I have, in recent years, acquired a KME blade sharpening fixture (very much like a Lansky), a KME Broadhead sharpening fixture and two workhorses for when I have to do 20-30 knives at a time - a Tormek T7 and a 3000rpm buffing motor with paper wheels. With the Tormek and the paper wheels I can get most any non-serrated knife to razor sharpness in a couple of minutes.
 
I have been using a Lansky since the early 1980's. It didn't work all that well for me until I figured out that setting it up correctly was pretty important. Each knife requires its own adjustments due to blade thickness. Once I learned how to keep the two halves of the jig parrallel/square it made a big difference.

I use diamond and ceramic stones and just need to touch up most of the time now.

For field use I carry a DMT folding extra fine "key chain" stone for touching up.

For big game I am mostly using a Havelon scalpel knife, and I touch that up too.
 
I spent many years using a lot of gadgets with mixed result. Then I read a book called "the razors edge" or something like that.
His system of using a very course abrasive until the edge bigins to roll and then using a fine abrasive at at a slightly higher angle has been the best handheld sharpening method I have found.
An arkansas stone is just not course enough for the first stage although you can finish up with a fine arkansas stone.

Had good results with jigs but takes me longer to set up for each knife than it does to hand sharpen the way I do it now. The book was worth reading.

Mike
 
There are those who swear by all off them, oil, water, diamonds, sandpaper, ceramic. If you are into power sharpening, stiff felt (best for round bevel knives) leather wheel, mdf with compound or the paper wheel kits. Ultimately power sharpening will give the sharpest edge and quickly considering the edge is there and just needs honing. Bad part is there is little margin of error, not portable and can be dangerous. Also quick way to ruin the temper of a tool.

If I were to have to pick one way, I would get a double sided diamond "stone" of 600/1200. Unless your using it every day it will outlive you. George Strunk turned me on to E-Z Lap brand and I've been pretty happy with them.
 
120 grit aluminum oxide flap wheel, http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/fw120.htm

To bring the edge up, then buff it with a buffing wheel and buffing compound,

Stones work great if have time and patience, but if you nick your edge the only way to get it out is with a flap wheel and buffer. It takes about 5 minutes to grind a knife and have it ready to brake a pelvic bone or shave with.
 
Mike,
I found "The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening" by John Juranitch. Does that sound like the book you read?
Rick
 
Knowing that there are several guys on this form who are serious about the care and maintenance of their gear, I'm wondering what you use for sharpening/honing knives?

Rick
Click to expand...


There is so much good info here.

You just need to pick a system.

I resisted for years jumping in due simply to cost and limped along with just a few things. I have and use a bunch of different stuff now. I love the idea of water stones and oil stones, but I just don't have a whole setup and have never got excited enough to spend the kind of money for a real nice set.

I have a Lansky style (gatco) that I bought in high school. That style of sharpener takes some of the mystery out of shaprening and makes it a bit less satisfying, but man does it do a nice job. I don't sharpen often, but sharpen and keep the blade honed with a steel - this is great for me. This is the case for kitchen knives and hunting knives. Doesn't matter if I'm cooking, cleaning fish, skinning or butchering deer I have the steel there. Something like ducks, doesn't dull the blade enough to need the steel. I saw the Lansky style the other day as a diamond model, I'd buy that in a heartbeat, even though diamond is kind soul less. Very minor, but water is nicer than oil.

A few years back I bought a big diamond similar to what Rutgers is talking about and I love it, it is by DMT. You can polish up/true anything (even other sharpening stones) with it. I really like having it, but $$$$.
 
For my carving knives, I took the advice of the knifemaker several years ago and just make sure I use a good strop with stropping compound on a regular basis and I'm at 6 years with a blade as sharp as the day I bought it. Lots of consideration relative to no sanding until all carving is completed... Relative to a skinning or cleaning knife, I get a friend to do it because I don't have the patience or skills to do so myself. :)
 
hobby trapping i dull the knife a bit & the work sharp is the ticket easy to use for many applications, ie, fleashing knife,serrated blades. i also use a sharpening steel & "crock sticks" for touch ups between belting
 
The system I have been using has been 600 then 1200 grit emery paper on a mouse pad. After getting a good edge then strop frist with course compound than with fine "white" compound.

Will try the Work Sharp sharpener after Christmas.

http:/...sharp+tool+sharpener
 
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I used oil stones for years. Now I use water stones.
Both get them sharp but water stones. Are cleaner to work with.
In addition I finish with felt then leather.
 
I used oil stones for years. Now I use water stones.
Both get them sharp but water stones. Are cleaner to work with.
In addition I finish with felt then leather.
Click to expand...


+1

Norton Water stones

Low speed 6" grinder with a hard felt wheel and compound

Leather and compound

Try to keep them sharp. It is a lot less work to touch up than bringing back a dull edge.
 
Check out the Edge Pro sharpening tool. My dad recently bought one, I've used a few times. It's kinda of a upgraded version of a lansky.
http://www.edgeproinc.com
 
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