What's on your WORK BENCH - July 2020

Here is the rest of the bench, ok, so it's my kitchen table, but you get the idea.

From left to right, a spoonie minus the body, a west coast style teal, and a lab retrieving duck can topper. The can topper is for my wife's grandfather who has been a huge influence in our lives and my hunting specifically. I will post when it is painted this week.


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View attachment Wick's head style+scaup+hens2.jpegView attachment Wick's head style+scaup+hens1.jpeg

I have to redo the primaries on one hen that I botched-not included in the photos. Base coat on the fourteen drakes completed prior today's rain. Whenever I start moving decoys around I immediately get a very attentive audience that arrives to "guard" them.

It was 50F this morning so I took them over to the hill pastures on the back side of Willow Farm and used the mowed run-up strips to the jumps to practice some hand signals and lining drills.....
 
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Dave

That lower shelf weighted down will really cut down or eliminate any vibrations you get from an unblanced work peice. Very nice design and it looks good too.

Eric
 
Stephen Z

Keep the pics coming of your build. I'm really looking forward to seeing the next steps. You mentioned hauling it in your pickup bed. What do you think the final weight will be?

Eric
 
Eric Patterson said:
Dave

That lower shelf weighted down will really cut down or eliminate any vibrations you get from an unblanced work peice. Very nice design and it looks good too.

Eric

Eric,
I have to admit, I tend to overbuild and did not check the weight per foot of the tubing I purchased. 24 feet of tube went into the lower frame, weight 110 lbs plus weld means I'm already 90lbs ahead of my old lathe bench. It was all I wanted to comfortably throw around, as I was finishing all the welding.

Yep, if that log starts walking my lathe across the shop floor,,,,,,,,, it is time hide. [pirate] Actually, unbalanced work was one of the major reasons for me getting a new lathe. The lowest speed (4 step pulleys) on my old lathe was 900 RPM. I had to be real careful to trim the raw blank as close to round as possible before mounting it in the lathe. I am enjoying the electronic variable speed immensely.

I'll have to post another picture when I get my LED overhead lighting in place.
 
Eric,

I am shooting for under 100#, I am estimating it about 40 right now. Fiberglass and epoxy on the hull are done, so pretty much just the deck and fittings, I am hopeful I will hit my goal. My first boat build and I am already planning the next :)

Steve
 
Hey, have you hit those hens with a wash of raw umber? If not, try on one. It seems to just soften everything up. If you do one, I wager you will do the rest. Other than that, nice set of chicas.
 
Great job on the stand Dave!!! Look forward to seein it all tricked out with your light and tools
 
Stephen Z said:
Eric,

I am shooting for under 100#, I am estimating it about 40 right now. Fiberglass and epoxy on the hull are done, so pretty much just the deck and fittings, I am hopeful I will hit my goal. My first boat build and I am already planning the next :)

Steve

Yep, sometimes all it takes is one and you want to keep going, or maybe can't stop going.

Eric
 
To continue with the Mission tables. I checked my openings carefully for square before cutting out the doors, and both cabinets were pretty good. The glue up on something like this is a fire drill, and care has to be taken to keep the glueup square with a fast setting glue. I clamp plywood squares inside the openings to help with this.

glueup2_w.jpg


square.jpg


Here's a door, just prior to glueup.

doors_glue_front.jpg


This kind of design requires a hinge strip inside the leg, to avoid mortising the hinge barrel into the leg. It's a fairly typical detail for this type of cabinet. Below is a hinge mortising jig and the hinge strip all mortised.

hinge_jig.jpg


And the pair of cabinets with doors and drawer fronts fitted to the openings.

fit_fronts1.jpg


I also got the tops glued up. Both tops came from one wide board of sipo. The 13" wide board was badly cupped, so I had to rip it apart, flatten the pieces, then re-glue. Once the pairs were glued, I flattened them again, and ran them through the planer. Then I glued the two sets of halves into two whole tops. They'll go back through the planer to final thickness before cutting to size. It helps having a 16" jointer and 24" planer (not to mention the Martin sliding table saw with motorized fence, and blade). My own machines out in the boat shop are smaller, but still nice enough.

tops_rough.jpg


tops_glue1.jpg


tops_glue2.jpg


That's where we are now. I brought the pieces home to my little home workbench for finishing.
Jim
 
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