What's on your WORK BENCH ? - NOVEMBER 2020

Steve Sanford

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
Good morning, All~


A couple From the Bench of George Williams:


This photo was languishing in my October file - George labeled them Family Covidae......


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And a Fine Drake Greenwing:


View attachment GW - GWT Drake.jpg



I took advantage of some warm days last month to lay up this spray shield (for a South Bay Duckboat). Polyester resin is better than epoxy for all-glass laminations. I always use polyester outside because the aroma (aka fumes) both lingers and is unhealthy. I let the work gas off for several days once it comes off the jig before I bring it into the shop. Then, I will trim the edges and make 2 thatch rails for it - laminated on the same jig.



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Among several dozen gunning birds in the queue are these Chesapeake Black Ducks.


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I will be removing the deep molded keels and replacing them with flat ones - so they will lay properly when the tide runs out and they find themselves on wet mud or sand - or just and inch of water.


View attachment Chesapeake Black 02.JPG



These foam birds are nice and dense - but I had the right tool for the job.


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A minute with 60-grit on the orbital sander will finish the prep.


View attachment Chesapeake Black 04.JPG



I made up these Mahogany keels last Spring. The large hole gives access to the screw eye for the anchor line.


View attachment Chesapeake Black 05 - keels.JPG



Lots more decoy work to come.....


All the best,


SJS



 
Check the plaque on keels. Stef and I decided these would be appropriate for the rig going to Argentina this coming season. He helped out considerably by acquiring the caps! Hard work!!!
Enlarge to see better.
 
Couple teal that I probably won't get painted in time for duck season. Flat bottom decoys from slab cutoffs. One had a little knot that came loose leaving a hole. I'm just gonna seal and paint em. Since the eyes are carved in there's only a little epoxy and a screw on each decoy otherwise they're all cedar. Some bandsaw marks are still visible. Finished with a rasp and file so they can look folky and simple. Like Simple Jack or Sling Blade more than Gump or Rain Man...


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Actually a summer project I don't believe I posted any of the build here but they are finished now with the advice from several people along the way the last being Vince P. Thought I'd post up a picture. Won't get floated this year for sure. Several of these have removable heads as I found hauling and storing my previous canvas swans a PIA in a marsh boat where I hunted them. Anyway maybe next year I'll be able to get back out with my son's and grandsons for a hunt.



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Fabulous Whistling Swans, Brad!


You really got the personality down.


Got photos of the removable neck method?


All the best,


SJS

 

Brad,

That is one very attractive, and functional rig of Whistling/Tundra Swan Decoys.

Man...those "NC/VA Old School", canvas over wire decoys make me Smile from ear to ear.

Keep the tradition going Bro. Cuz it never goes out of style.


Odd # of decoys is good luck. [smile]

May they serve you, and others well for many seasons & years.

Two thumbs way up!



Best regards
Vince
 
I have a plan for my VA rig to have a couple swans surrounded by coot and wigeon..... I think that will be very natural. Never see a rig like that around here, but I have seen that with live birds many times.
 
Thank you for the comments. I am far from an expert on these having made a total
of 9 canvas swans and 1 goose (unfinished) so far...and two more swans cut out but on hold now .. waiting for my next spurt of activity. Out of the 9 swans I will have 5 until I finish the next two as they seem to be favorites of people that admire decoys and I have a difficult time saying no. :-(

A couple of years ago was the first removable head/neck I made using copper tube but had to solder on shim stock to get the right fit. My brother solved my problem with aluminum amateur radio antenna stock for collapsable/tunable antennas. It comes in many sizes both round and square and each one slips inside the other. I embed the larger as a socket in the base and the smaller in the removable head/neck piece. I found jig plans on line so that I could accurately drill the two holes. I start with the head neck stock in one piece and square in at least two sides. Clear as mud :) View attachment 6A7BC5F3-9430-4761-9554-AE284C5DC445.jpegView attachment 7F78B991-9372-4B41-A18E-24E33C6DBD4F.jpeg
 
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So why the number 3 on the body and head? Is that to match the correct head to body or are they all marked 3?
 
Great stuff Brad, might have to incorporate a removable head like that on my future swan decoys. Drew a swan permit this year so will have good reference material.
 
Brad , as usual your swan decoys are very life like. I?m glad you are continuing to make them so you?ll continue to not be able to say no.
 
Well, I finally have something to contribute. As many of you know, I was planning on rehabbing a vintage 12 decoy set of Brant foam decoys. I have finally begun. I started disassembling the set. They will get repaired, heads re-fitted with SS hardware, restle coated with walnut shells. The wife, who is a hobby artist, has offered to lend some time painting while she recovers from surgery.

Here is one of the "finer specimens."

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Underside. Looks like a Decoy's Unlimited foam/mold cast? I see the molds on ebay from time to time. Hidden by my thumb are the rusted screws that secure the head to the body. Some of these are a real chore to get off. So far I have disassembled half of the set.

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Will be needing some new heads. I have decided not to repair them as they have been repaired a few times before. So far, two have broken bills.

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I've sourced what appear to be very similar decoy heads. The heads on mine appear to be "Toledo's" which is no longer in business. Autumn Wings carries the exact same head but it is in bass wood. I would like to keep all the components the same though. BR Decoys carries the closest I can find foam head as seen below. I believe all varieties, including the Toledo's are Herters patterned or similar.

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This is where I am at now. I need to find a suitable filler to shape and smooth the gaps in the neck/body connection. I have been following Steve's write-ups religiously. Without them, I'd be lost. I know he uses fiberglass filler to smooth and fill the gap. Are there any other alternatives? It seems the brown caulk he uses in building the Homer's might not be enough here.

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Good morning, Jay~


Regarding the neck gap and appropriate fillers....


The big question is whether you need something to impart significant strength - or simply fill a gap.


For the former, I typically use epoxy resin thickened with microballoons or fairing compound (a mix of microballoons + Cabosil). I butter up both the head and body sides before fastening, then plan for generous squeeze out as the fastener is drawn tight. Then, I very carefully form the epoxy (which should be as stiff as peanut butter) to the final contours. The fairing compound is made to make sanding cured epoxy easier - so the joint can be sanded before priming.


BTW: I will occasionally use Bondo (a polyester resin-based filler) but only for very minor surface imperfections - never for structural purposes.



If the head-to-body joint is strong but still leaves a gap, I use painter's caulk (a paintable silicone that comes in various colors.) I will be assembling some Homer Eiders later today. The Hens will get brown caulk. If there is any significant amount still showing - after wiping to contour - I often sprinkle fine sawdust on it to match the rest of the bird which is coated with epoxy + fine sawdust for the bottom and head or Homer Coat (finely ground walnut shells) for the body.


This help?


SJS





 
Thanks so much, Steve. I believe I also need to level out the heads and the body bases. Some sandpaper should take care of that. I do believe I have an excessive gap between the heads and the body due to the original builder not really sanding the bases on both the body and head level.
 
Jay~


Yes - I always try to get a good fit - even if not perfect. For example, when installing the Homer's Eider heads earlier today, I grind the bases of their heads flat on my table sander first. You could do the same thing on a belt sander held upside down in a vise. I would get close with a knife then sand.



All the best,


SJS

 
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