WOOD AND PAINT

J

Jeffrey Nelson

Active member
I am sure this question has been asked before, but if someone doesn't mind answering it again. I am about to switch from acrylics to oil, and I'm not sure if I still need to prime the birds before I paint? Should I use something other than paint to prime? If someone could help with the process. Thanks, Jeff
 
Pete taught me to use ronans paint. It works well just thin it because it dries wicked fast.

Good luck with the oils, i paint slow so acrylics and i dont get along well
 
First of all - I'm not a decoy carver persay, having only made a couple dozen. That said, I have bought a bunch and my biggest pet peeve is to pay good money for a decoy and a year later the paint starts to fall off because the bird was never sealed. I could never figure that out - all the time spent to create an object of your art/craft and not seal it first so it will last. Find a good sealer and use it. My favorite is linseed oil mixed with turpentine. Straight linseed takes forever to dry - if it ever will. I think directions on the can are 50/50 and that works pretty good. It'll still take a few days to dry but once that bird is sealed and painted with oils it will likely out last you.
 
Jeffrey~

I seal with 2 coats of spar varnish. I sand each coat with 120 or 150 grit. Then I prime with a flat oil - usually Rustoleum - Flat Black, or Flat White, or a mix thereof - or a Grey Primer. (You could use Gesso instead as a base under either acrylic or oils.) Depending upon the species, I like to approximate the final tones. So, whereas I might prime most Puddlers a medium grey, most drake divers will be primed black and white - close to finish paint pattern. I sand the prime coat - very lightly - again with 120 or 150 grit before finish paint.

Here's the Whistler that was later dubbed "Lord Yooper" with his 2 coats of varnish. I had primed the head and bill (with black gesso) just as a check to see if I had the look I wanted.

WhistlerDrake-2coatsofvarnish-April2013_zpsd70fac47.jpg


Merry Christmas!

SJS
 
I use Zinsser's Seal Coat 100% wax-free shellac. I always follow up with light sanding between 2 coats. Then I'll base paint with Rust-oleum black or white like Steve. Just make sure your seal-n-sand is 100% wax-free:)
 
In truth, nearly any wood sealer/primer works. I have used wax free shellac, hardwood floor sealer, Val-Oil, Exterior Oil-based (Alkyd)Primer, Teekays and wood hardener. I even tried two part polyurethane once. (spearing decoy carvers use it) There are pros and cons, but the only failure has been too many coats or coats that were applied too thick when using the shellac or Lacquer based products. I have yet to find one that can seal air dried sugar pine properly. :-)

I would not use any oil as a sealer.
 
Steve - the best product I found for Sugar & White pine, is Smith's Custom Wood epoxy sealer. A good friend who restores Cris-Craft and Lyman boats, recommended it years ago. It's not cheap, but I have never had a problem since I began using it.

Spar varnish - good stuff, but getting VERY hard to find.

NO Thompson's Water Seal on decoys....... Learned that the hard way 30 years ago.
 
Ive used Val oil for years and have exhausted my supply of six gallons i had rat holed. cant find it anymore.
 
epoxy has been working well for me the last several years. Same stuff the boat building guys use. I have been using AeroMarine epoxy for a year now to seal and glue my birds and like the product.

I always prime with at least one coat of Ronan black or raw umber. After 24 hours I sand the ronans smooth and start blocking in my base coats.
 
Thanks Tom. I am still learning and trying to find a groove. I really enjoy Connecticut style decoys with a modern uptake. Mr. Mueller is certainly an inspiration.
 
gac 700. In doing miniatures, i have found that painting directly on the wood appears to seal as well as enable faster drying-curing-time-Be mindful, this is with acrylics. Blistering with oils occurs sometimes because the papint has not fully cured before use, the paint was exposed to sunlight, paint was applied to fat or to lean. Just keep practicing.
 
Steve - Try Jamestown Dist. RI, for Smith products. Spoke with my boat buddy, and he said it may be on sale now. As I also need to purchase some (a little goes a long way). It's made in California, and I used to buy direct, but I have always gotten my West System, from Jamestown. This may save time, and $$. As carving Season for me is almost here.........

Good carving, and I hope it works for you.
 
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