Shooting School

RM Anderson

RM Anderson

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Everybody learns differently and I have always felt blessed that picking up new information by reading books has worked well for me. One example of that is learning to shoot; grateful because I cannot afford a shooting school. For the past few years I have endeavored to erase 45 years of poor shotgun shooting habits. They say it takes 10,000 repetitions to create muscle memory and by my count I should be nearing it. A half dozen books have been studied in the process but the one that encapsulated it best for me was Gil Ash's book, "If It Ain't Broke Fix It". Recommended reading for anyone interested in taking this same journey.
RM

If It Ain't Broke, FIX IT! (Lessons in Shotgunning (and Life)): Gil Ash, Vicki Ash, Ty Adams: 9780976020400: Amazon.com: Books

If It Ain't Broke, FIX IT! (Lessons in Shotgunning (and Life)) [Gil Ash, Vicki Ash, Ty Adams] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. If It Ain't Broke, FIX IT! (Lessons in Shotgunning (and Life))
www.amazon.com
 
Thanks Richard, will check it out.

Brister's book on shotgunning was one of the most influential for me on the general topic, though less about the art of shooting.

More recently I read Currie's book on shotgun fitting...

I suspect like you, I mainly learned by shooting. Over time, I became a better than average live bird shooter, though a long way from being a good shot - mainly due to inconsistency at times. But with thousands of rounds, I'd figured out the cues... if I got a bruise in a certain spot or if my cheek wasn't a little sore after a full day, I'd know why I wasn't hitting consistently that day.

Then a close friend was fitted for a gun and got deep into the art and science, and recommended this book - and I realized a major contributor was gun fit, and started to understand the interactions between fit, recoil, and point of aim. Just adding 3/4" to length of pull made a major difference to how my guns shoulder and fit and as a result, immediate improvement in mounting/shooting consistency and major felt recoil reduction. While I'd still benefit from a real fitting and modified stock, it's all but eliminated cheek slap.

I also learned about the impact of eye dominance, and how that is so much more than simply right or left. Though I'm technically right eye dominant, in reality that dominance is very centralized, just barely to the right of the bridge of my nose. A properly fit gun would likely help in a big way, but as I'm not likely to make that investment, understanding this has helped me get over a desire to try to shoot with both eyes open as it is just physically impossible with a stock gun given my condition.
 
Another great book that I found to be quite instructional is John Bidwell's book, "Move Mount Shoot". Both books are roughly the same in terms of technique. Personally I give the edge to Gill Ash for communicating it in away that I could visualize. RM

Move, Mount, Shoot: Crowood Press: 9781852233006: Amazon.com: Books

Move, Mount, Shoot [Crowood Press] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Move, Mount, Shoot
www.amazon.com
 
Gun fit is 90% of the accuracy equation. The rest is 5% pattern testing and 5% practice

Let's face it the vast majority of waterfowl hunters or to lazy too fit their gun to themselves or do pattern testing. That's why the national average is something like 5 shots to kill a bird.
 
This topic has a good chance of getting some legs. I'm well north of 2 million shells in my lifetime, did a lot of competitive shotgun shooting, and I still tinker and try new stuff. I just fitted a pitch spacer to a 20 gauge Citori last night.
 
Fortunately for me, standard stock dimensions fit me quite well. That said, by following the advice in these two books, I was able to increase my hits by 20% in the past month alone. I started this journey studying the Churchill method of shooting which helped my gun mount immensely. It is hard to fit a shotgun without first developing a good mount. RM

 
I'm no expert but hold your gun at your hip and pick an object in the distance. Close your eyes and throw the gun up and pretend you're going to shoot that object (point at it). Then open your eyes and see if the gun is mounted correctly. It doesn't matter if you are pointed exactly at the target but it does matter that your eye is positioned exactly in the middle of the rib and at the correct height (not looking down on it or with a hidden bead). If it's not right then you need changes.
 
While I shot rifle competitively in college, I was a terrible shot with a shotgun until two things changed:
1. Got glasses around age 30.
2. Found a shotgun that just fit and a load it liked.
After glasses AND buying my Beretta 390 in 2003 and shooting 1 1/4 oz #3s, my shooting on live birds improved exponentially.
Still to this day can’t hit a clay pigeon to save my life.
But in the last 10 years I hunted, I rarely missed.
I attest that to the Right gun, load and improved confidence.
So Find a gun that you like, points like it’s part of you, and you have confidence in. And get your eyes checked!
 
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SJ Fairbank said:
I'm well north of 2 million shells in my lifetime, did a lot of competitive shotgun shooting, and I still tinker and try new stuff.
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It has been said that anyone can ride a horse but that it takes a lifetime to look like you belong there. I've always owned a shotgun but never shot extensively until three years ago when I decided that anything worth doing is worth doing well and purchased a clay pigeon thrower. Talk about rough on the ego. Hit averages hovered around 50% for some time. Had some early success with swing through style of shooting but never really new why misses occurred so kept looking for a better method. From my affiliation with SCI I knew a little about Gil and Vicky Ash. One of their mantras is "Get in front and stay in front." They along with John Bidwell seem to advocate a refinement of the Robert Churchill shooting method.

Anyone who has fired in excess of two million shells has my attention. What say you?
RM
 
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The Ash's and John Bidwell have fine reputations as instructors. My understanding of what they teach is the same as yours, basically the Churchill method. I think Bidwell calls it "move, mount, shoot". Variations of Churchill are probably the closest thing to instinctive shooting that are regularly taught. Upland bird hunters reacting to a surprise flush of a fast moving bird would be a good example.

If you are trying to improve, absent taking lessons from a competent instructor, I'd suggest the following tips/practice:
  1. All shooting depends on good eyesight. Get your eyes checked, and buy prescription shooting glasses. It's a good idea to wear them in the field anyway, and interchangeable tinted lenses make clay targets pop when at the range.
  2. Focus on the target. One reason the Churchill method works so well is that the shooter is focused on the target because the gun is fired immediately upon mounting, rather than that damn bead at the end of the barrel. Shotguns are pointed, not aimed. You should see the target just as clearly with the gun mounted as you do watching someone else shoot. If you don't, chances are you're looking at the barrel. Those glow beads are the devil, I think anti-hunters own the patent on them and sell them to make guys miss. ;)
  3. Find a way to shoot as many different target angles as possible. Because it sounds like you're practicing for hunting, try skeet/trap sporting clays at shooting ranges. Yes, more expensive than your personal trap, but well worth trying to see more challenging targets. Skeet is mostly crossers, although it's only 21 yards on most shots the leads are substantial. Trap is going away targets shot at 30-45 yards, and sporting is a little of everything. If you go to a sporting clays range start with one where it's not set up for a tournament as some specialty targets can be frustrating. Don't be intimidated if you don't have a fancy schmancy gun with a truckload of chokes and Barbour clothes. Skeet or IC work fine for Skeet, a Mod will do just fine for trap and SC.
  4. Two thoughts on game bird shooting- In general, a bird that flushes or flares over the decoys, is accelerating away. The clay target you practice on will almost always be decelerating, with the exception of some specialty sporting targets. It's hard to overlead a bird, watch all the you tube videos of big puffs of feathers. Those little feathers come out of the butt. Or videos of crossing birds with the shot clearly behind them. One technique to improve your bird shooting skill is to focus on the birds head if the angle permits, and lead the head. This gets the shot farther ahead of the bird, one pellet in the head is worth several in the body and a hundred in the butt. There is an old adage, shoot 'em where they eat, not where they poop. Looking at the head also has the advantage of letting you know which way the bird will turn, as they turn their head before they turn their body.
 
RM Anderson said:
It has been said that anyone can ride a horse but that it takes a lifetime to look like you belong there. I've always owned a shotgun but never shot extensively until three years ago when I decided that anything worth doing is worth doing well and purchased a clay pigeon thrower. Talk about rough on the ego. Hit averages hovered around 50% for some time. Had some early success with swing through style of shooting but never really new why misses occurred so kept looking for a better method. From my affiliation with SCI I knew a little about Gil and Vicky Ash. One of their mantras is "Get in front and stay in front." They along with John Bidwell seem to advocate a refinement of the Robert Churchill shooting method.

Anyone who has fired in excess of two million shells has my attention. What say you?
RM
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Lars Jacobs instinctual shooting technique is what has made the most sense to me, at least for birds. Get in front and stay in front is great for clays that are always decelerating in a fairly consistent trajectory, but (in my opinion) much less valuable for birds that will change course and altitude and accelerate. I shoot best when my stock hits my shoulder just as the barrel is passing through the bird and with a trigger pull a fraction of a second later.
 
SJ Fairbank said:
If you are trying to improve, absent taking lessons from a competent instructor, I'd suggest the following tips/practice:
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Response:
1. Yes, I have aviation style prescription shooting glasses minus the bifocals!
2. Focus on the target. One gadget that has helped my move and mount is a lazer shotgun shell. By projecting a lazer beam at the seam joining the wall and ceiling I have practiced my move and mount so that it is straight and fluid without porpoise or wobble. Side benefit is I no longer concentrate on the bead.
3. Since purchasing a remote control release for my Atlas trap I am no longer tethered to an extension cord. I don't own a fancy shotgun and shoot only what I intend to hunt with; a Benelli SBE. Initially I changed chokes according to target distance but now practice exclusively with full choke to accentuate mistakes in form.
4. Great tips on focus, I will take that to heart!
 
HenryHawthorne said:
I shoot best when my stock hits my shoulder just as the barrel is passing through the bird and with a trigger pull a fraction of a second later.
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Henry, I tried but abandoned this technique because like you my right eye is not strongly dominant and my left eye tended to pick up the fastest moving object, in this case, the barrel. The other reason is because when I did miss, I could never figure out why. Was my barrel speed insufficient or too fast, timing off, or did I miss read the line. Instinctive/maintained lead seems to address those shortcomings for me. RM
 
Obviously a shooting method is deeply personal and should be up to the individual. When I started this makeover three years ago, I vowed not to let ego get in the way. In my mind, I decided it was better to miss 100 clays than one Pheasant or Mallard. To that end I have tried to remain open minded and try new methods. Initially, maintained lead had a bad connotation because I believed that is what trap and skeet shooters used. Only when I saw that it could be used as an extension of the Churchill method did I sit up and take notice. RM
 
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Personally, the hardest habit for me to break is mounting the shotgun quickly like a flyweight boxer. My goal now is to mount the gun slowly with a minimum of movement (and absolutely no head movement). In my mind, a good mount should emulate a good ballroom dancer like Len Goodman. Sorry I know this; my wife watches Dancing With The Stars.
Maintaining your composure when a Pheasant flushes at your feet is difficult however. RM
 
RM Anderson said:
Personally, the hardest habit for me to break is mounting the shotgun quickly like a flyweight boxer. My goal now is to mount the gun slowly with a minimum of movement (and absolutely no head movement). In my mind, a good mount should emulate a good ballroom dancer like Len Goodman. Sorry I know this; my wife watches Dancing With The Stars.
Maintaining your composure when a Pheasant flushes at your feet is difficult however. RM
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I have found the very best way for me to practice shotgun mount and build up muscle memory i.e. consistency.

Is with a full length wall mirror.

This is of course after the gun has been fitted to me for LOP and DAC.
 
Clinton John said:
This is of course after the gun has been fitted to me for LOP and DAC.
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Yes, I made sure the gun fit well before I purchased it. Additionally the SBE with 3" chamber and shorter 26" barrel just seemed lively compared to its 3 1/2" brother. Before this I carried a M1 Super 90 with a 22" barrel. A joy to carry all day but not as well balanced. I have kept it as a backup and for grouse hunting here in northern Minnesota. RM
 
RM Anderson said:
Yes, I made sure the gun fit well before I purchased it. Additionally the SBE with 3" chamber and shorter 26" barrel just seemed lively compared to its 3 1/2" brother. Before this I carried a M1 Super 90 with a 22" barrel. A joy to carry all day but not as well balanced. I have kept it as a backup and for grouse hunting here in northern Minnesota. RM
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That's why I don't own a 3 1/2 chambered shotgun.

They all feel sluggish aka dead in the hand.

I was a Remington 1100 and browning a5 fanatic for most of my life but the day I bought my first Beretta 390 all that changed. I still love my old 1100 and A5 but the 390 and now my 300 ultima and the a400 upland I just got will be the go to guns.

The 3 inch Beretta guns just feel right to me.
 
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