Anyone else paddle a Mad River Explorer?

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
Good morning, All~

This post may be "NDR" - because my latest canoe (I am inching toward 20 such vessels....) may get the "yacht" treatment rather than my default gunning boat treatment.

This was an impulse buy - which I came across on Facebook Marketplace. It was available about 10 miles from my Mom's house - and very close to where I use to live on Long Island. So, I coordinated a visit to my Mom (now age 96) to visit the canoe as well. As it happened, it was offered by another member of the LI Decoy Collectors Association - and said member - Mike Yannelli - had performed some beautiful work on the rails and decks. No structural problems, this 16-foot Explorer by Mad River Canoe Company needed only some cosmetic work on the exterior of the hull. So, it came back to my Mom's with 2 nice paddles.

1 Mad River Explorer 16 - Jackson 2.jpg

It's first adventure was only about a 1/4 mile West from my boyhood home....but met my expectations...

2 Mad River Explorer 16 - at StopnShop.jpg

A gorgeous vessel, the Explorer was quite different from any of my other canoes.


3 MR -Explorer - hull upside down.jpg

Whereas I typically hunt for canoes with traditional lines - recurved ends and flat floors - this boat is made for more challenging waters than beaver ponds and fairly flat rivers. She has bit of deadrise to her bottom.

4 MR Explorer - shallow vee - oblique view.jpg

I have not measured the angle, but the shallow vee is nothing I have paddled before. I am thinking she will be very happy up on Lake Champlain (where we have a seasonal family camp.) Seas can get a bit lumpy there with a bit of a breeze.

5 MR Explorer - shallow vee A.jpg

She seems to have just a bit of rocker - but I have not yet struck a line along her keel. The ends lift a bit - so she will not root when asked to turn.

6 MR Explorer - FULL profile - stbd side.jpg

The hull is 'glass (not the Kevlar or Royalex used in some later models) and the rails, decks, seats and yoke are all wood.

6a MR Explorer - oblique view over stbd quarter.jpg

All the woodwork is either new or recently restored - and the interior needs only a bit of scrubbing.

7 MR Explorer  - long view from above.jpg

As you may have seen with most of my other canoes, I usually remove all or most of the aluminum and replace it with wood. This Indian River Canoe got such a treatment a few years ago. It lives on a local beaver marsh.

sm IRC - DONE - from stbd quarter high.JPG

The ends are neither plumb nor recurved. Not sure of the proper descriptor - but I am thinking "cutaway" - or even "knockabout".... I'll bet Bob Welsh or Matt Mahoney can educate me on this point.

8 MR Explorer - bow profile - stbd.jpg

Waitsfield is in north central Vermont - home to the Mad River. The company was founded in 1971. Like so many companies, it later was moved and sold - and production of Mad River Canoes was suspended - in favor of the more popular kayaks and paddleboards et cetera. The Indian lore surrounding the "bunny" relates to its competence and confidence.

8a MR Explorer - Rabbit logo.jpg

Mike replaced the original decks - which had rotted - with these beautiful and well-executed details.

9 MR Explorer - stern deck details A.jpg

The seats and thwart are original and in fine condition.

10 MR Explorer - interior with yoke and thwart seat.jpg

The plastic "wicker" insert seems healthy - not about to split as so many do. I think the hangers are new - thanks to Mike.


11 MR Exploerr - cane seat and hangers.jpg

Mike replaced the rails with Paulownia - aka "Princess Tree" (after a Russian princess) and a relative of Catalpa and Trumpet Creeper. It is very light, somewhat rot/insect resistant - but not as stiff as the traditional White Ash rails. Mike builds surf boards - hence his familiarity with Paulownia.

11a MR Explorer seat hangers.jpg

I am thinking Boston Whaler started the now-common practice of featuring the manufacturer prominently on hulls. It is not my cup of tea - and the words will not survive my re-painting. One of my favorite headlines from The Onion: "14-year-old collapses under weight of corporate logos"......

13 MR Explorer - MAD RIVER amidships.jpg

I will probably take my drawknife to the yoke - and scalp it to a more comfortable shape for my neck and shoulders.

14 MR Explorer - yoke CLOSEUP A.jpg

Mike added this extra thwart - to address the greater flex with the Paulownia rails. I will replace it with a length of White Ash - shaped in both plan and profile like a more traditional thwart.

15 MR Explorer - temp Paulownia thwart - aft.jpg

I have yet to paddle this boat - but am intrigued by its history. I remember when they came on the market (1975) - and have always admired them. They have been called "the Volvo of canoes" - for their sensible, versatile design and sound construction. And, it was a 16-foot Mad River Explorer that was the first open canoe to successfully navigate/negotiate the Grand Canyon - in 1976. I need to learn more - and would welcome any experiences or perspective other Explorer owners wish to share.

BTW: I have not yet decided on the hull color - but it will not be Marsh Grass or Duckboat Drab. And, its bottom with be a contrasting hue. (This will be a Winter project.)

All the best,

SJS
 
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Steve,
I only have two canoes in my fleet besides my 16' Lund. The 16'Explorer in the Duck Hunter color and an Old Town 119. These three vessels suit my needs at this stage of life well.

I did a lot of research before I bought my Explorer. Over and over, all I read was praise for how it paddles, praise for its stablility, praise for the load it carries (1100 pounds!), and praise for the way Royalex hulls bounce off rocks.

Even though the wooden rails and caps are things of beauty, I chose to go with the plastic rails and caps for the sake of utilitarian purposes. Originally, I planned on my Duck Hunter to be just that, my duck hunting vessel. But I have orbed into deer hunting and I use both my canoes for that purpose.

It is a wonderful boat. You will enjoy paddling it. I added a fiberglass skid plate on each end; I'm sure that slows the vessel down but it also protects pulling it on shore. I also add a 2 horse Johnson if my distance deer hunting calls for it.

Larry





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Steve,
No experience with the Explorer, but owned a Mad River Freedom for several years. Constructed of Royalex, it was a fine white water canoe. On flat water it paddled like Tupperware; more a reflection of the material from which it was made. My only other criticism was the weight on long portages; again a consequence of choosing Royalex. You will be happy with this canoe as it was Mad River's flagship model. One last note, rather than taking a draw knife to the center thrawt, try sculpting a piece of closed cell foam take it more comfortable. RM
 
Steve,
No experience with the Explorer, but owned a Mad River Freedom for several years. Constructed of Royalex, it was a fine white water canoe. On flat water it paddled like Tupperware; more a reflection of the material from which it was made. My only other criticism was the weight on long portages; again a consequence of choosing Royalex. You will be happy with this canoe as it was Mad River's flagship model. One last note, rather than taking a draw knife to the center thrawt, try sculpting a piece of closed cell foam take it more comfortable. RM
RM~

I just showed my nephew how one uses the yoke to carry a canoe. Although I have not yet weighed it, the vessel is well within my range. (At 72, still "strong like bull, twice as smart...) But, the my neck does want a bit more friendly shape and cushion. I can imagine a bit of shop mat held in place by a piece of canvas, eyelets and light cord.

All the best,

SJS
 
I'm dead center in the middle of what Edward Tappan Adney and Howard Chappelle called the epicenter for traditional bark canoes in North America. If this book is not on your shelves, you should find a copy. https://www.amazon.com/Bark-Canoes-Boats-North-America/dp/1628737921 Central Maine was also where Old Town and others developed the first mass-produced wood/canvas canoes. I've paddled a lot of canoes on everything from more or less protected open ocean to Moosehead Lake to streams not much wider than the canoe, and on whitewater up to Class 3. While there are better Royalex canoes if you want to specialize on big lakes, serious whitewater, tiny streams, or routes with a lot of portages, if you are looking for a single canoe that can do everything well, the Mad River Explorer is hard to beat. There are two in my current fleet--a remote pond canoe that has been stripped of as much un-necessary wood as possible so it can be left in the woods without rotting away, and a barn queen with new ash gunwales and decks that is treated like a precious object in places I won't bang it up too much. I'd be happy to paddle either anywhere in North America I'd take a canoe--and plenty of places I'd do so only with great caution. The only other Royalex canoes I consider in a similar class of do-it-all canoe are the Old Town Tripper, the Old Town Camper, and the Dagger Legend. I'd take a Tripper if my route had more lake paddling; a Camper if I didn't need to carry a big load and weight for portaging was a factor, and a Legend if my route was heavy on whitewater. But I'd be happy to have an Explorer anywhere. FWIW, I think their "Duck-Hunter" appearance package was the best looking of Mad River's original production, so don't shy away from something olive drab-ish above the waterline. Hunter Green is also classic. A challenge is getting paint to adhere to the vinyl skin on the Royalex. I've had good luck with rattle-can spray paint intended for plastic, like Krylon Fusion.
 
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production of Mad River Canoes was suspended - in favor of the more popular kayaks and paddleboards
Glad to hear that others love and enjoy canoes. Sad to hear a once great American canoe company is reduced to producing kayaks and paddle boards. As a student of the late Bill Mason, I have had many adventures and fond memories paddling Quetico provincial park and our our own BWCA. White water is a thrill but I quickly exhausted my cache of willing participants. In my possession is a set of hull stations for a Bear Mountain Freedom 15. While it is a perfectly good design, I can't put aside thoughts of lengthening it by a foot to make a faster tandem or perhaps shortened by a foot and the ends covered for a solo hunting canoe. Anyway, I believe you and your nephew will enjoy this latest purchase. RM
 
And FWIW, my remote pond version--uglified with plastic gunwales and decks from Old Town--sports a carrying yoke on the factory-original center thwart made of old Ensolite sleeping pad strips wrapped in camo duct tape. I jury-rigged it from stuff that was in the truck when I carried the canoe in to the pond 10+ years ago and didn't want the yoke rubbing my neck on the 2 mile-carry. It worked well--and has served as a make-shift place to store flies while they dry with no loss of function in case the trout population ever fails and I need to haul it some place else.
 
That looks VERY comfortable! Did you make it - or purchase?
The one pictured is available for purchase but you can easily shape your own with a belt sander. The hard part is finding suitable foam. My Morton Buildings contractor gave me a couple pieces when the materials where delivered. They are used in place of 4×4 posts to stack sheet metal for transport without scratching paint. RM
 
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Nice canoe Steve looks like purple heart wood on the deck inlays. I've been using George Kirby paints recently and they go on smooth as melted butter. He has many canoe appropriate traditional colors. My next canoe paint job will wear the Chestnut Canoe green. I've been paddling my Old Town fleet of Canadiennes, this summer. I'm sure you will do your normal bang up job on her.
 
Nice canoe Steve looks like purple heart wood on the deck inlays. I've been using George Kirby paints recently and they go on smooth as melted butter. He has many canoe appropriate traditional colors. My next canoe paint job will wear the Chestnut Canoe green. I've been paddling my Old Town fleet of Canadiennes, this summer. I'm sure you will do your normal bang up job on her.
Bob~

I have this distant but vivid memory of classic canvas-over-cedar canoes being painted with topsides distinct from the underwater hull. My understanding is that traditional trippers were painted this way so that the waterline could be used for trimming the load. Does this ring true with you? (I'm thinking one of Kirby's dark greens with their Cream below.)

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve, I have never paddled that particular model, but I did have one of the Mad River Solo Canoes for a few years. It was constructed with Royalex and was an extremely durable hull.

It wasn't really designed to be a freighter so it didn't work out too well for my duck hunting purposes. It had virtually no primary stability, but a good bit of secondary stability. This made the boat "feel" very unstable, but she was quick on her feet and paddled very well.

I found myself choosing that boat when I knew I would have a long paddle.

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It had virtually no primary stability, but a good bit of secondary stability.
The shallow V that Mad River is famous for did have a kind of tippy feel when lightly loaded. Having said that, never did fall out of one or capsize in rapids. A great design to be sure. RM
 
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Nice find Steve! Like RM said, I suspect that if you are used to flat -bottomed canoes you will find that this one has a little less initial stability and will feel a bit "snappy when you first paddle her. But, when loaded up it will perforem splendidly. Regarding a waterline and alternate bottom color; I have done this on a couple of my W&C boats and it looks sharp. To strike your waterline, chock the boat rightside-up and level on the floor of your shop. Figure out where you want the waterline amidships. Rig-up a little jig with a pencil attached at the proper height and then just slide it around the boat on the floor with the pencil striking the line. Also, if you want to snazz it up a little more, buy some thin, stick-on pin striping at the auto parts store.
 

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Nice find Steve! Like RM said, I suspect that if you are used to flat -bottomed canoes you will find that this one has a little less initial stability and will feel a bit "snappy when you first paddle her. But, when loaded up it will perforem splendidly. Regarding a waterline and alternate bottom color; I have done this on a couple of my W&C boats and it looks sharp. To strike your waterline, chock the boat rightside-up and level on the floor of your shop. Figure out where you want the waterline amidships. Rig-up a little jig with a pencil attached at the proper height and then just slide it around the boat on the floor with the pencil striking the line. Also, if you want to snazz it up a little more, buy some thin, stick-on pin striping at the auto parts store.
Good morning, Matt~

Thanks for the validation re the 2-color hull scheme. You may have noticed that I have been painting faux bottom paint on many of my gunning boats in recent years. Although just straight oil paint - not anti-fouling - it is a nostalgic tribute to all of the work boats of my youth on Great South Bay - with their copper-based formula to ward off barnacles and such. I ask my hardware store to mix up some "Barn Red" - and I usually add some flatting agent.


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I use precisely the marking approach you describe - but often with a Sharpie instead of a pencil to help my old eye. For canoes, the point is about 3 inches above the floor.

I need to put that Explorer in some navigable water soon - to see how my inner ears handle the initial stability - or lack thereof. Am I too old and infirm to handle a tender vessel?

All the best,

SJS
 
Nice find Steve! Like RM said, I suspect that if you are used to flat -bottomed canoes you will find that this one has a little less initial stability and will feel a bit "snappy when you first paddle her. But, when loaded up it will perforem splendidly. Regarding a waterline and alternate bottom color; I have done this on a couple of my W&C boats and it looks sharp. To strike your waterline, chock the boat rightside-up and level on the floor of your shop. Figure out where you want the waterline amidships. Rig-up a little jig with a pencil attached at the proper height and then just slide it around the boat on the floor with the pencil striking the line. Also, if you want to snazz it up a little more, buy some thin, stick-on pin striping at the auto parts store.
Matt~

BTW: All look sweet - but I love that blue in your third photo. Winslow Homer would surely approve!


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I may be asking you to reveal the secret formula sometime this Winter!

SJS
 
Steve,

Paint formula should be on file at Kirby's. It was a now discontinued Pettit product that I had matched. I think they have it on file at Kirby's under Mahoney Blue!

Good luck with your inaugural voyage. Keep you weight amidships if you're alone!
 
Steve,

Paint formula should be on file at Kirby's. It was a now discontinued Pettit product that I had matched. I think they have it on file at Kirby's under Mahoney Blue!

Good luck with your inaugural voyage. Keep you weight amidships if you're alone!
Matt~

Thanks for the Kirby's info!

Rest assured re my maiden voyage - my considerable "self-contained ballast" and I will be kneeling amidships, wedged against the aft edge of the forward thwart....

No one would call me Wee Lassie.....

SJS
 
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