2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread

Nose and aft boxes are epoxied, fileted, and glassed in, including longitudinal bulkheads in the rear. Still need to make the motor well, but that will come later. I've also fileted and glassed the central hull joint and roughed out a bulkhead to go just in front of the #6 bulkhead, which will allow me to extend the rear deck a little for a seat/poling platform - as well as to tuck away the main battery and house an electrical panel.

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I need to make the #3 bulkhead (had a temporary for the upside down build since I wanted to move it rearward to extend the front deck), then will pull out my pre-build electrical sketches and validate/tweak it for real spaces. I do plan to have space for a second battery for a trolling motor should I decide to add one. Current thinking is it will go under the forward deck just behind bulkead #3 - as will my gas tank, but I want to get it all laid out to confirm. Alternatively it can go opposite the main battery on the starboard side.

Once all that is sorted I can make final adjustments to bulkheads, fix them, and finish internal epoxying. I'd originally thought I'd fix the bulkheads then filet the outer hull to side joints, but looking at it I've realized it will be a lot easier and quicker to do those in long runs and just ease the lower corners of the bulkheads to fit. I can't think of any real downside to that strategy.
 
Henry, You have just as much experience as I do so please don't think that I am criticizing your work. It's hard to tell from your photos but you may want to check your fillet size; they look a bit small on your 90 deg joints. RM
 
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RM Anderson said:
Henry, You have just as much experience as I do so please don't think that I am criticizing your work. It's hard to tell from your photos but you may want to check your fillet size; they look a bit small on your 90 deg joints. RM
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I appreciate the observation, and will do. Away for a few days, but that check will be first thing next week.
 
That is one heavy duty boat. I'm afraid to ask what a finished boat weighs.

You're doing a nice job on the build. I'll bet it looks super when you finish.
 
HenryHawthorne said:
The plans say a little over 450lbs.
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Which is a lot less than a tdb 14 or a dw 16 published weight. one of the under discussed aspects of a stitch and glue boat is the high strength to weight ratio of the wood that provides the structure of the boat. A lot of times I wished mine was heavier, if the hull wasn’t a horsepower hog already I’d wish it weighed 650.
 
tod osier said:
Which is a lot less than a tdb 14 or a dw 16 published weight. one of the under discussed aspects of a stitch and glue boat is the high strength to weight ratio of the wood that provides the structure of the boat. A lot of times I wished mine was heavier, if the hull wasn’t a horsepower hog already I’d wish it weighed 650.
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Why do you wish it was heavier?
 
tod osier said:
Which is a lot less than a tdb 14 or a dw 16 published weight. one of the under discussed aspects of a stitch and glue boat is the high strength to weight ratio of the wood that provides the structure of the boat. A lot of times I wished mine was heavier, if the hull wasn’t a horsepower hog already I’d wish it weighed 650.
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FWIW:

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Duck Boss 16 LP is 450 LB.
 
Back at it today...

A few fillet pics.
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9mm ply, 5-6mm fillet depth, so just a bit over the 50% depth Sam recommends (CORRECTION - Sam recommends 1x, not 50%). Fillet length is on the low side of Sam's 1.5-2x recommendation. In researching, I will say others seem to recommend larger fillets, but I suspect Sam feels OK about smaller ones giving his glassing schedule for the fillets.

Re: the glassing schedule, Sam calls for 3 layers of 6oz... 18oz in total. I'm using 12oz biax, so in the few places I only used one layer, I need to add another.

Certainly open to any recommendations from any who think I'm going too light, as I could easily go a touch heavier with some glass and epoxy - and beef up future fillets.

Also got my #3 bulkhead roughed out and primary electrical components laid out for testing my initial drawing so I can see where things might mount and what cuts I need to make in the #3 and #5.5 bulkheads before installing them. I'll post a new circuit sketch later for input. I've done basic house and car wiring so not new, but definitely not my area of expertise so all input is welcome.

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Henry,
In retrospect I think I know why you fillets looked small; because mine are too big! Fillets were one area that I truly struggled. At the end of the project I had greatly improved, but it was my least enjoyable task. If you don't mind me asking, how do you lay the bead for the fillets? I used pastry bags which worked OK but still a pain in the ass. RM
 
My only thought is that some recommend running your FF/GPS on a separate circuit with its own CB/inline fuse to avoid possible interference, but I think that was only an issue on older models. Its also the most sensitive piece of equipment on most boats, so protecting it from power surges is also a concern.
 
Are those two 6 or 12 gallon tanks? What size motor will you be running? 2 or 4 stroke? Long runs planned?
 
Carl said:
Are those two 6 or 12 gallon tanks? What size motor will you be running? 2 or 4 stroke? Long runs planned?
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Two 6g tanks. Wanted to see what would fit if I ever thought I needed it. I'm going to build a mount for two, but I'd guess that most trips will have one 6g tank (using the other side for anchor, life preservers, etc) and maybe a 1g "backup" in the rear. Still fiddling with it, though.

Most likely putting a 4-stroke 50hp on it... unless I find a good deal on an old 2-stroke between now and completion.
 
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