End of year clean up
- Thread starter justin boucher
- Start date
Justin,
An uncluttered cockpit is much safer so I am making a few minor modifications like adding decoy curtains such as the ones Eric Patterson installed on his boat.
RM
justin boucher
New member
Usually its more organized, i just started putting the decoys away that have thawed out from the 6" of snow covered in 3" of ice, unfortunatly the strings froze to the bottom of the boat. Ill look for the picture from last season of how i set up for when the boat is in motion
justin boucher
New member
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Love pics like that, seeing the everyday messes. I'm all cleaned up, myself and only have minimal repairs on the near horizon. Trailer light mount that lost in a battle with ice, that short of stuff.
Steve Sanford
Well-known member
Justin~
I adopted a different approach long ago. Someday I will tell the tale of breaking through the ice - up to my shoulders - of Great South Bay, about a quarter-mile offshore in 2 degree temps. Oh, and it was still pre-dawn... The theme of that story will be the lesson I learned about pre-season prep, avoiding problems through "extra steps", and repairing something (anything!) as soon as it fails.
When I was on Long Island, I hunted everyday (mostly parts of). So, upon returning from a hunt, I did the following (after draining the bilge at the ramp and replacing the transom plug):
1) If freezing temps, all decoys were carried downstairs to dry near the oil burner. (Outside cellar entrance was one of the first things I built when we bought our first house.) My burlap motor cover came downstairs with the decoys. Gun and shells were brought in - with the former being oiled once it had warmed to room temp.
2) Gas can was topped off. (Always kept a 1-gal emergency spare in the boat - but never needed it.)
3) Cockpit cover - whether canvas or wood - was secured.
4) Anything broken on boat or trailer was repaired - even if the next day's hunt had to be postponed. I did not have a heated garage or shop as I do now. So, one epoxy job required a 100-watt light bulb and some shrouding overnight. Wounded decoys were put on the IR and replaced with a ready-to-hunt second stringer. And, one trailer "fix" was a brand new trailer mid-season!
So, the pre-hunt routine included bringing the decoys, motor cover (and gun and shells) upstairs and into the boat. That step required just a few extra minutes - which I budgeted the time for. And, I slept well in anticipation of a trouble-free hunt the next day.
Having said all that, if you could see the out-of-control mess in my shop right now you would not believe a word of what I say!
All the best,
SJS
Justin
I'm glad you posted this because it reminded me the ground wire on my truck trailer wiring is missing. When I plug the trailer lights in there is no ground which means the only source of ground is the ball which makes the trailer lights flicker. I need to fix that but it will probably wait until the fall when I get the boats ready for the season. I typically clean my rigs and get everything out of them and push the repairs to October which is about the time grass quits growing and my thoughts turn to hunting season.
I'm glad you posted this because it reminded me the ground wire on my truck trailer wiring is missing. When I plug the trailer lights in there is no ground which means the only source of ground is the ball which makes the trailer lights flicker. I need to fix that but it will probably wait until the fall when I get the boats ready for the season. I typically clean my rigs and get everything out of them and push the repairs to October which is about the time grass quits growing and my thoughts turn to hunting season.
On the trailer lights... I'm not big into tech in trucks, but DAMN I do like that my truck tells me when there is a trailer light issue. So nice to not have to check any of our trailers and just go with it and then fix them when there is a problem.
In this case the bumper was replaced on my old work/hunting Tacoma and the body shop guy rewired the socket but for some reason didn't wire in the ground. I am like you in that I'm not into tech trucks either. I've come to the conclusion it is better, at least for me, to buy a base model and add after market items of my choosing rather than the expensive stuff from the factory that I don't even like.
Annoying on the ground.
I like some of the tech, mostly for long distance travel and towing, but in general more simple the better.
justin boucher
New member
I love all the feed back im getting from you guys that have been hunting alot longer than i have, i started waterfowl about 5 years ago so im still learning all of this. I use my boat year round not just for hunting. The only break my equiptment gets is this next couple months before striper season. Lots of work this year tho, new bearings, wiring, bunks and guides on trailer. I gotta get a new impeller for the waterpump ( no big deal, motor has 5 year warranty lol) looking like a new prop and gotta rebuild my front storage area and new bench seat that gets removed for hunting season. It may not look it but hunting on a budget is harder than it looks lol
justin boucher
New member
Buffleheads are the most common bird we get on the river, so when i put out the diver rig i make sure to include a couple dozen. The couple kids i take out love shooting at them. The decoys take most of the shots tho lol.BUFFLEHEAD DOMINATION RIG right there! You could pull them for one state over with that rig.
roy brewington
Well-known member
Right now i,m in the Boat Blind mod. process while improvements needed are still fairly fresh on my mind. Last spring I bought a Beavertail blind, like new, cheap, for my 2072 . Installed on boat, made some mods to top shoot hole flaps, installed dog door & completely grassed . Looked amazing. Only problem was with the blind collapsing on left side of boat for travel created such a large bundle I couldn,t easily enter my permanent blind from back door under boat shed. Sold that for a handsome profit right at season end. Now moding frame work on my original blind I had on 2072 which I specifically designed for hull. Designed it for easy entry/exit bow & stern when erect and can operate boat when raised. Needed more clearance on right side when collapsed along gunnels and grassed heavily , for easier operation of throttle on my side console set up. This blind collapses clamshell style to either side. I,m making upright wall legs adjustable with sliding extension on console side to give me that bit of extra room I needed. What I should have done last spring instead of buying that Beavertail! My decoys come out of boat normally each hunt, especially during freezing weather to drain & dry in sun at least, heated shop if needed. Everything's bagged which makes it fairly quick & simple. I constantly switch back & forth between 3 boats depending on where i,m hunting so I can just grab the bags needed for the occasion. My boats are tarped though over a frame so I don,t have to contend with them being filled with snow or even being rained in. Contended with that enough years ago.
James Boyd
New member
Always have quite a few decoys after most seasons that require some sort of repair. One thing I do before each season is either remove or at least kick up any transducers for depth finders. Most of the places I hunt I am very familiar with anyway and replacing broken transducers can get expensive very quickly. A much better option imo if you need to navigate shallow waterways is to follow a previous trail on a gps and have various waypoints for hazards, channels, etc
Neal Haarberg
Active member
There is always a list of broken stuff at the end of the season- Of the top of my head for me- broken trailer bunk- leaky hub- broken fire extinguisher holder. bent stern light- replace strap that holds my march rat to the big boat, replace lost plug for march rat. Fiberglass over worn gunnels where bare wood is showing. 2 brackets on the boat blind that broke that need real repairs instead of the on the water fixes with black tape. replace broken strap that keeps dog stand folded up. I am sure there is more. Of course go through the decoys and check l anchor lines. repaint widgeon decoys... duck season doesn't end at the end of duck season.
I took my blind off my Duck Invader yesterday, and was reminded that the topside is mostly a chalky white color that I wasn't able to remedy last summer. I tried multiple fiberglass cleaners, restorers, and compound without success. Sooo the plan is to spray the topside with "Duck Boss Brown" that I bought from Lou @ Lock stock & barrel. I know that you really can't see the topside with the blind on, but I'm mostly concerned with protecting the glass. I cover entire boat in the off season, and it lives in my garage for the season.
Anyone else have this problem?
Anyone else have this problem?
Nate Hoyt
Member
UV is hard on gelcoat over the years; dried pluff mud is also. That chalkiness is the gelcoat going away. You have to wax gelcoat to protect the gelcoat or you have to repaint paint to protect the fiberglass; pick your poison. Some guys swear by the ceramic gelcoat restoration/protectant products for chalky gelcoat, but I haven't used them myself. I think some wet sanding is necessary and a lot of buffing is involved.
I used Lou's paint on my whole boat including the deck. It needs repainted now, but I can't complain too much. It wears like iron on the hull. I did a modified restle coating of the deck with play sand in the paint for traction and top coated with more paint after the first coat dried. Ground walnut shells would've worked also, maybe better. I had to cook the sand with a heat gun to dry it before I used it and I had to sift it with a fine wire sieve to get the big chunks out afterward. It is definitely non-slip, but it sheds a lot of sand at first and isn't as durable as I hoped, but I think that is the sand abrading the paint underfoot over time more than the paint itself. It eats sand paper if you need to remove it to make a fiberglass repair. I would sprinkle silica non-skid additive to a neat coat of epoxy if I did it again, but I'd still use the marine enamel to top coat it.
It is hard to not limp a boat through a season. I fix the big stuff as I go, but cosmetic and inconvenient damage waits until the ducks aren't flying. This does screw up my ability to get on the water for the late winter/early spring catfish, yellow perch, white perch and crappie. My rub rails need a rebuild after a rather brutal rot removal surgery last summer and I need to partake in some other interior renovations while I am at it, but duck season isn't to blame this year. Poor baby needs new shoes too ...and at least one hub ...and some bunk improvements.
Nate
justin boucher
New member
Wouldnt have been an issue this year but i forgot about it beings its my first year having one, when river ices over i push ice with the back of the boat to create a shooting hole
roy brewington
Well-known member
That will definitely wreck a transducer if it doesn't kick up. Even unloading boat in an Icey ramp can frequently break bracket if it isn,t kicked up.