Hull bottom and side panels lofted, cut out, and planed to final dimensions. Just need to bevel the mating edges and drill holes and can start stitching. Look8ng forward to seeing a boat-like shape soon.
2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread
- Thread starter HenryHawthorne
- Start date
Just need an extra set or two of hands and I can get the bottom on...
Otherwise, got the outside of the transom and the fore bulkhead glassed while flat.
Otherwise, got the outside of the transom and the fore bulkhead glassed while flat.
Fun to see, but now the long slow slog!
Henry, How did you like working with 3/8"? I've built two boats with 6mm but the Bluebill I've been told could be built from either material. Richard
Great - bends and forms easily. Sam calls for 1/2" now for the SG, but he was fully good with staying with 3/8". My feeling is why add unnecessary weight, so if he specs either 1/4 or 3/8 for yourself I'd lean towards 1/4 for weight and cost. But if you want a bit sturdier, I don't think you'll have any problem working the 3/8.
Henry
The epoxy plugs on each transom hole indicate to me this is going to be one very fine boat when done. Your progress this far is outstanding and I'm interested to see how the bottom first approach works.
The epoxy plugs on each transom hole indicate to me this is going to be one very fine boat when done. Your progress this far is outstanding and I'm interested to see how the bottom first approach works.
Thanks Eric. For the inexperienced like me, it is certainly very helpful to have this site and to be able to read and study what has (and hasn't) worked for others. In the end, there will be as much Eric and Tod and Steve and Dave and... and... as there is Henry and Sam in this boat.
Upside down has gone fairly well so far, though my lack of experience boatbuilding has caused it to raise questions. "Squareness" is one - there isn't a great way to check for that upside down as there would be right-side up, so I'm having to go a bit on confidence that the strongback and use of bulkheads are doing their jobs. I did snake a string through the framing yesterday, and found corner to corner to be pretty much right on, though touches of frame members and string stretch make that less than perfectly accurate. But it helped my confidence. And being able to walk around and see all the boat's lines is reassuring.
One item of note - I mentioned in a post about bulkheads that I'd left the topside of them proud by 1/4-1/2" (just rough cut outside the arc). The back 2-3 bulkheads extend slightly below the hull side panels now that they are fit... but 2, 3, and 4 hit pretty much right at the edge of the side panels. So I'm glad I didn't cut right to spec. I haven't remeasured to confirm I got everything exactly to plan, so can't say if the issue is me, the plans, or just build variance. I'm debating whether to do anything - an obvious solution is to not bond those in while upside down, and to move them forward a bit in the boat once rightside up. But plenty to do before I have to make a call on that.
Jump in - the more the merrier!
Tom Barb
Active member
Henry, you can also check for square by plumbing down your 4 corner points and marking in the ground. Then move the rig out of the way. They make plumb bob lasers if you have access to one, though I’ve found them to become untrue over time, or you could use good old fashioned plumb bob and string. Gravity won’t lie.
Tom Barb
Active member
Tod, just curious, what is your overall package length and width? For garage fitting purposes.
Great idea, thanks!
The lines of this design are truly beautiful. No pressure Henry, but I can't wait to see your boat when it is complete! As to your questions on squareness, I think by building UPSIDE-DOWN you are eliminating alot of the potential for error. However when my Menards sawhorse collapsed, I was grateful that I had marked the location of each bulkhead on all of my hull panels. Your own experience as a woodworker will serve you well. Richard
You underestimate my ability to make errors!
Finished tabbing between stitches, inside and out. I primedbwith neat epoxy, then injected and squeegeed peanut butter... I did not do the small tabs of fiberglass, but I'm fairly optimistic that as the plywood bends aren't too tight, epoxy tabs inside and out should hold the panels in shape when I remove the stitches. Will give everything a couple days to cure well before testing my luck.
Henry,
It would be remiss of me not to say something but you would indeed be testing your luck not to tab with fiberglass before removing stitches. Richard
It would be remiss of me not to say something but you would indeed be testing your luck not to tab with fiberglass before removing stitches. Richard