Thanks Eric. I've already settled on Parkers (was never able to get a response from LSB/FME) for above water - I know it doesn't have the durability of your recommendation, but as I'll be able to keep the boat indoors and since it is easily repaintable, I hope it will prove a good solution. I have Wetlander (2 part epoxy primer and paint) to use on the hull to a bit above the waterline.
2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread
- Thread starter HenryHawthorne
- Start date
Henry, If time allows I would certainly wait one to two weeks for your epoxy to finish curing followed by a thorough rinse and sand. During this extended cure, amine continue to rise to the surface which can affect your paint finish. A few days in the hot sun would speed things up I would think. RM
Henry
Like I mentioned to SJ your build needs to go into the Resources section, similar to Richard Lathrop's sneakbox build. Your thread has such a large following I don't want to interrupt that. But perhaps when the build is complete you can create an entry in the Resources section. Basically, I make you the author of that section and you fill it up with text and pictures. This will highlight your build and keep it in a place that can easily be found and referred to. You game?
Like I mentioned to SJ your build needs to go into the Resources section, similar to Richard Lathrop's sneakbox build. Your thread has such a large following I don't want to interrupt that. But perhaps when the build is complete you can create an entry in the Resources section. Basically, I make you the author of that section and you fill it up with text and pictures. This will highlight your build and keep it in a place that can easily be found and referred to. You game?
ie...Eric wants to make sure it floats before posting in resource section!
Sure thing. I found others' build threads so valuable in prep I wanted to document as much of mine as possible in case it would help someone in the future - as well as to get advice along the way. I greatly appreciate this forum.
He's wise beyond his years!
That's what I was thinking about mine.
tough crowd.....
Thanks, I'll definitely give it a few days. So far, using the non-blush hardener from Raka I haven't noticed any blush at all. Whether that is due to the product or simply that the conditions havent been right, I dont know - but I've been happy with the product.
The oil based enamels take a little longer to cure on fresh epoxy, but I find that the adhesion is fantastic. There is definitely some reaction between the fresh epoxy and enamel that somewhat slows the paint hardening, but once dry it is on there well. I found this with both Parker’s and fme on multiple epoxy encapsulated boats. Paint and bake for the topsides at least.
OK, at a decision-point as I am cleaning up the Step-n-Trim tabs I bought and giving the seal coat and few days to cure...
Do I wait to test the finished SG to see if it porpoises and fit the tabs only if there is a problem? Or is the likelihood certain enough I may as well go ahead and drill and prep epoxied holes now, before getting paint on? If the former, I'll definitely get a backer board epoxied in place before finishing the rear flotation compartments.
Do I wait to test the finished SG to see if it porpoises and fit the tabs only if there is a problem? Or is the likelihood certain enough I may as well go ahead and drill and prep epoxied holes now, before getting paint on? If the former, I'll definitely get a backer board epoxied in place before finishing the rear flotation compartments.
Mine is unusable without and per Joel that used to be in Sam’s shop those they built had wedges added before sea trials. Every one here that was properly powered needed them.
Thanks Tod.
Gonna have to get control of my obsessive side or this is going to take a while! Upon inspection and while sanding the seal coat, I decided I had not done as good a job as I should have sanding after fairing. Sanding the seal coat, in particular, showed more flaws than I could tolerate, so pulled back out the 80 and got everything back to flat. These pics are before blowing off the dust, but it's a lot better now... but will need another seal coat or two. Fortunately, I got more comfortable and quicker with roll-and-tip light coats doing the last seal coat, so shouldn't take too long. I have a couple small areas around the strakes that could use some thickened epoxy, so will do that Monday and drill/fill holes for the Step-N-Trim tabs at the same time. Then (hopefully) final seal coats.
Henry,
Perfectionism needs an outlet and your hull is a better place than most to expend it. You will never wish that you hadn't faired your hull so damn perfect. In my opinion you are at a bit of a crossroads. Either rush and get the boat done in time for this season or take your time and obsess to your hearts content. I chose the latter because I am incapable of doing anything half ass but I also recognize we are given only so many hunting seasons. RM
Perfectionism needs an outlet and your hull is a better place than most to expend it. You will never wish that you hadn't faired your hull so damn perfect. In my opinion you are at a bit of a crossroads. Either rush and get the boat done in time for this season or take your time and obsess to your hearts content. I chose the latter because I am incapable of doing anything half ass but I also recognize we are given only so many hunting seasons. RM
Better to decide that before paint!!! I never roll and tip. Having the epoxy and boat warm to hot and letting it flatten on its own gives a nice finish if you manage the temps properly.
Richard Lathrop
Active member
But how would we get a new resource on boat repair?
I'll keep the goal of being done for this season, but it certainly won't be a hard deadline. It will be a "work" boat, not a show boat, so I'm trying to keep in mind that perfection can be defined differently for each case. And it will certainly get scuffed up at first use, so there is limited utility in going overboard. But, for me, that's easier said than done.
Among other things, I'm gaining a huge respect for the guys and gals that do boats professionally and the attention to detail and skills they obviously have.
Squeegee? I squeegeed on initial coats and wetting glass, but felt I might struggle getting a uniform, thin coat, particularly on the vertical sides, so tried the roll and tip. It went pretty well, but I may rethink it.
Just a 2” chip brush, pour and corral/push with the brush, let gravity and the low viscosity move it.