Thanks Eric. I've already settled on Parkers (was never able to get a response from LSB/FME) for above water - I know it doesn't have the durability of your recommendation, but as I'll be able to keep the boat indoors and since it is easily repaintable, I hope it will prove a good solution. I have Wetlander (2 part epoxy primer and paint) to use on the hull to a bit above the waterline.
2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread
- Thread starter HenryHawthorne
- Start date
Henry, If time allows I would certainly wait one to two weeks for your epoxy to finish curing followed by a thorough rinse and sand. During this extended cure, amine continue to rise to the surface which can affect your paint finish. A few days in the hot sun would speed things up I would think. RM
Henry
Like I mentioned to SJ your build needs to go into the Resources section, similar to Richard Lathrop's sneakbox build. Your thread has such a large following I don't want to interrupt that. But perhaps when the build is complete you can create an entry in the Resources section. Basically, I make you the author of that section and you fill it up with text and pictures. This will highlight your build and keep it in a place that can easily be found and referred to. You game?
Like I mentioned to SJ your build needs to go into the Resources section, similar to Richard Lathrop's sneakbox build. Your thread has such a large following I don't want to interrupt that. But perhaps when the build is complete you can create an entry in the Resources section. Basically, I make you the author of that section and you fill it up with text and pictures. This will highlight your build and keep it in a place that can easily be found and referred to. You game?
ie...Eric wants to make sure it floats before posting in resource section!
Sure thing. I found others' build threads so valuable in prep I wanted to document as much of mine as possible in case it would help someone in the future - as well as to get advice along the way. I greatly appreciate this forum.
He's wise beyond his years!
That's what I was thinking about mine.
tough crowd.....
Thanks, I'll definitely give it a few days. So far, using the non-blush hardener from Raka I haven't noticed any blush at all. Whether that is due to the product or simply that the conditions havent been right, I dont know - but I've been happy with the product.
The oil based enamels take a little longer to cure on fresh epoxy, but I find that the adhesion is fantastic. There is definitely some reaction between the fresh epoxy and enamel that somewhat slows the paint hardening, but once dry it is on there well. I found this with both Parker’s and fme on multiple epoxy encapsulated boats. Paint and bake for the topsides at least.
OK, at a decision-point as I am cleaning up the Step-n-Trim tabs I bought and giving the seal coat and few days to cure...
Do I wait to test the finished SG to see if it porpoises and fit the tabs only if there is a problem? Or is the likelihood certain enough I may as well go ahead and drill and prep epoxied holes now, before getting paint on? If the former, I'll definitely get a backer board epoxied in place before finishing the rear flotation compartments.
Do I wait to test the finished SG to see if it porpoises and fit the tabs only if there is a problem? Or is the likelihood certain enough I may as well go ahead and drill and prep epoxied holes now, before getting paint on? If the former, I'll definitely get a backer board epoxied in place before finishing the rear flotation compartments.
Mine is unusable without and per Joel that used to be in Sam’s shop those they built had wedges added before sea trials. Every one here that was properly powered needed them.
Thanks Tod.