Steve Sanford
Well-known member
SJ~
Elegant solution! (One I have used in my gunning coffins forever....) I use my router to round the edges after I 'glass the outside.

From the same design school: Howzabout boring a hole (5/8" or 3/4"( crosswise through your stem/cutwater? It's an old idea - but from the pre-trailering days. It was intended for a painter, nicely eye-spliced into place. Here is one on an old Great South Bay Scooter:

The painter should thick enough (half-inch?) for a comfortable hand hold AND just short enough so it cannot foul in your prop.... You may want another eye-splice on the leading end - or a whipped end tied in a figure-8.
BTW: If you think you may anchor this vessel, I would mount a 6-inch cleat (oriented vertically) inside the boat - on your "vertical trim" piece. A deck fairlead - or a bit of leather tacked in place - could prevent chafe.
All the best,
SJS
Elegant solution! (One I have used in my gunning coffins forever....) I use my router to round the edges after I 'glass the outside.

From the same design school: Howzabout boring a hole (5/8" or 3/4"( crosswise through your stem/cutwater? It's an old idea - but from the pre-trailering days. It was intended for a painter, nicely eye-spliced into place. Here is one on an old Great South Bay Scooter:

The painter should thick enough (half-inch?) for a comfortable hand hold AND just short enough so it cannot foul in your prop.... You may want another eye-splice on the leading end - or a whipped end tied in a figure-8.
BTW: If you think you may anchor this vessel, I would mount a 6-inch cleat (oriented vertically) inside the boat - on your "vertical trim" piece. A deck fairlead - or a bit of leather tacked in place - could prevent chafe.
All the best,
SJS