OARLOCK STANCHIONS for a South Bay Duckboat

Steve Sanford

Well-known member
Good morning, All~

This is a long post about oarlock stanchions. I have restored and customized a bunch of South Bay Duckboats - and finally was asked to set one up for rowing. I was happy to do so - because I would not leave terra firma in any small vessel that did not have a truly reliable way to get me back home. My gunning vessels have always had paddles (for canoes) and a good pair of oars for everything else.

Putting that prejudice aside, I have always enjoyed the world of oars, oarlocks and rowing. Although most rowing craft are open and have their oarlocks attached to the gunwales (more or less), most duckboats are decked over and so need oarlocks mounted on stanchions of some sort. The first boat I ever rowed, I believe, was the TED SANFORD, my Dad's Great South Bay Scooter built by Benjamin Hallock of Center Moriches (south shore of Long Island), probably in the 1920s.



B - sm 3 - Rowing stern to.jpg

These were simple blocks, curved elegantly at each end, and beveled to meet the crown of the deck. They were bolted through the deck and backed up below with some Oak. (I can never be certain which details were the work of Hallock -or of my Dad - who restored the Scooter in 1954.) My Dad liked pinned oars - so they would not escape when picking up birds and stool in icy waters. I inherited that preference. But, I did bore the scuppers through the blocks - having encountered sockets filled with ice more than once. Rain water can escape through the ports.

C - sm 8.jpg

Because most gunning boats have coamings around their cockpits, the oarlocks need to mount above the coaming height - for the proper geometry relative to the rower and the bay. The blades of the oars need to both dig into the sea and clear the wavetops on the backstroke. Also, the looms need to clear the coamings. Thus, the oarlock sockets need to be mounted on an elevating structure. I have always called them stanchions - but I am not sure that this term is widely used - or accepted.

D - sm 12.jpg

Here is a taller stanchion. I cut the opening to both reduce weight and to allow the oarlock socket to drain straight down.


E - FT 3a oarlock stanchion sealed and located.JPG

This stanchion has a larger scupper - for drainage. And, I integrated it into the thatch rail. So, I put thin (3/16") spacers under each end so that Salt Hay could be wedged beneath the stanchion. It and the backers are beveled so that the stanchions sits vertical (perpendicular to sea level).

F - Stanchion & backers.jpg

Here it is in line with the thatch rails - on my Sneakbox RED-LEG.

G - z15.jpg

If possible, I like the oars to almost meet amidships. However, on many narrower vessels, the handles cross and so the rower must pull each oar alternately - a technique I later learned was called the "Dutch roll" - and which has been a natural rhythm for me life-long.

H - White-Wing - better stanchions and oars.JPG

As an aside, these clamp-on oarlock are less-than-elegant - but are easy to install and they do not weaken the oar by penetrating the loom at its fulcrum.

I - White-Wing - clamped oarlocks.JPG

Barnegat Bay Sneakboxes are well-known for their folding oarlocks.

J - sm 02 VS Oarlock mounts.JPG

These are on a Van Sant Sneakbox - and tie into the stool rack.

K - sm Stool Rack 10 - view from aft quarter.JPG

This folding oarlock is on a grassboat built for Ralph Cranford (of Babylon, NY - see Barber's WILD-FOWL DECOYS) in 1918. They are the only ones I have seen with their own thatch rails.



L - Cranford - Oarlock Stanchion with Thatch Rail - upright for rowing.JPG

This Scooter was from the same era. Note how tall they are - because this "whaleback" had lots of deck crown.

A - Raynor 9 1942.jpg

Now I will take a break - and continue this as a Reply. Not sure how many images I can jam into a single post. (It used to be 10, I believe.)

Stay tuned!

SJS
 
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Part 2~

Another common form of oarlock stanchion was made with pipe - usually 1/2-inch ID galvanized water pipe. I put them on my first build. They were fastened to Oak frames - with 2 U-bolts on each. These stanchions are not vertical because they follow the flare of the frames.



M - Grassboat # 1 - from stern.jpg

Most earlier pipe stanchions I have seen were made to be removable. They passed through the deck and rested in a wooden socket.

O - 1 Skidmore - Oarlock stanchion framing.jpg

When I restored them on this Scooter - built by Alton Westbrook for Brud Skidmore - I decided to install them permanently - to keep out the rainwater that had caused rot in the deck over the years.

N - Skidmore 4 Sea Trials 13.JPG

I also used pipes on the JAMES CAIRD.

P - sm 42B CAIRD - Stbd bow quarter on trailer.jpg

These, too, were permanent installations. They are U-bolted through the plywood quarter-knees.

Q - sm CAIRD - SJS and framed hull - Munseel Road img20230911_22081018.jpg

R - sm MSF Sneakbox - oarlock stanchion and staub.jpg

A side-benefit of the pipes is that they double as "hitching posts" - to keep the boat against the bog whilst gunning.

R - sm MSF Sneakbox - oarlock stanchion and staub.jpg

All my pipe stanchions get weather caps. 7/8-inch rubber feet for kitchen stools give a snug fit.

S - 13 sm CAIRD - Pipe oarlock stanchion.jpg

The South Bay Stanchions

The South Bay Duckboat is a grand gunning vessel - and justly revered and still sought after.by discriminating coastal gunners. It was the brainchild of Red Magnus and Ray Milliken (sp?). It is noteworthy that they developed and used the boat "up West" on Long Island. They usually poled their South Bays to and from a bay shack - and thus did not trailer them daily as most of us do. As a result - in my opinion - they saw need for neither transom drains nor oars. I have added transom drains to numerous South Bays - but this is my first attempt at adding rowing capability. (And, I add gun rests to ALL South Bays nowadays.)

The job is made challenging by the adoption of taller flap boards by most South Bay owners. I had hoped to install oarlock stanchions so they were 48 inches apart - for use with 7-foot oars. Instead, I had to go out to 54 inches - to miss the "thatching ridge" molded into the deck and to minimize the intrusion into the flap boards. I had restored this particular South Bay a couple of years back - so was not beginning my R&D with a blank slate.

Once I figured everything out - including the situation below decks - I located the holes through the deck and through the flap boards. I needed/wanted to avoid the existing thatch rails on the flap boards. I bored a 2-inch "port" with a hole saw. I was hoping I could raise and lower the board over the pipe - which needed to rise above the board by 2 or 3 inches.


A - sm 7 Oarlock Port and new Bumper Pad.jpg

I began thinking I could run the pipes right down into a socket on the floor of the boat - as is traditional. However, installed shelves on both port and starboard sides made such a choice challenging (though not impossible). So, I decided to use strong through-bolted backers as I do on my wooden stanchions. I remain a bit concerned about the torque that can develop with such tall stanchions - but only field experience will tell us (me and the owner) for sure.

The block - not yet beveled into upper and lower halves - on the left shows it upright with a rubber stopper. I was going to make these pipes removable (traditional) - hence the stopper - but the owner preferred permanent installation. Note that the block on the right is upside down - so you can see the all-important drain hole.


B - sm 9 New Oarlock Stanchions - pieces.jpg

Time for another break......

SJS
 
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Part 3~

Everything was carefully marked - and inspected below - before boring the necessary holes.





C - Tierney - holes through deck.jpg

Each backer block was fitted around framing below - the area to get 3M 5200 on the deck was carefully masked.

D - Tierney - backer blocks shaped for frames.jpg

Fasteners are 1/4-inch s/s carriage bolts - with fender washers and nylocks below.

E - Tierney - Deck block and backer block - port side.jpg

The ratchet and LED work light earned their keep.

G - Tierney - ratchet and work light.jpg

The block was thoroughly slathered with 3M 5200 - to allow just enough squeeze-out beneath the bolt heads and all around each block.

F - Tierney - deck block squeeze out BETTER.jpg

No masking needed below - but squeeze-out needed all the same.

G - sm Tierney Soutrh Bay - stranchion blocking belowdecks.jpg

H - Tierney - opening port in flap board.jpg

The pipes would clear the original hole - but not with the weather caps (more later). So, I opened up the boards.

H - Tierney - opening port in flap board.jpg

Of course, the raw edges needed careful sanding and epoxy-sealing.

I - Tierney - epoxy with tape.jpg

Each pipe was carefully bedded with 3M 5200 - but being sure not to clog the scupper. They were held snug with shock cord for a couple of days to cure and firm up before any strain was put on them.

J - Pipe Stanchion curing with shock cord.jpg

The final pause.....

SJS
 
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Part 4 - ALL DONE!

I experimented with both old galvanized oarlocks and new bronze ones. I opted for the latter so I could get a nice fit in the nylon inserts - both snug and quiet.

K - sm Tierney South Bay - oarlock details.jpg
The inserts (from West Marine - as were the oarlocks) were too snug for the galvanized pipe. So, I used the drill press like a lathe - with a half-inch drill bit as a mandrel. I began with 80-grit paper but soon graduated to a chisel, to neatly reduce the outside diameter of the insert.
L - Tierney - dressing nylon insert.jpg
The pins are longer than they need to be....
M - Tierney - bronze oarlock with pin.jpg
I trimmed them with bolt cutter and grinder before peening them.
N - Tierney - pin needing trimming.jpg
I always like to fill the space between the oarlock horns and the oar itself. Here I used one grommet and one washer (both neoprene) on each oar.
O - Tierney - grommet and washer inside oarlock.jpg

I heated brass screw eyes so I could press and screw them into the thick rubber "weather caps".

P - Tierney - brass screw eyes in rubber caps.jpg

A bit of tarred nylon tethers each to its post.

R - sm Tierney South Bay - stanchion with weather cap.jpg

All done!

S - sm Tierney South Bay - DONE - in shop.jpg

Ready for the road.

T - Tierney South Bay - with oarlock stanchions.jpg

Back to the shop - and the next vessel....

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve,

Great write up as usual. This is a good page for information about fixed seat rowing geometry.


Rick Lathrop
 
Fantastic Job as always Steve, I have a strong feeling though there is one less bird feeder up at the farm..... ;)
Anthony~

As a matter of fact, those pipe sections did come from a Bear-mangled bird feeder post. I did not use the one the Bear mangled last month, however. We are waiting 'til December to re-erect it..... I will but some more galvanized bext week.

All the best,

SJS
 
Steve,

Great write up as usual. This is a good page for information about fixed seat rowing geometry.


Rick Lathrop
Rick and Steve,
Great write up Steve and I appreciate your tall stanchions. Rick, good article and timely. I did alot of research when fitting my poleboat for oars and I have concluded that when people say that they hate rowing, it is a reflection of the fact that they violated one or more of the principles in rowing geometry. A properly fitted boat is FUN to row! My oarlock tower is not pretty like Steve's but I like being able to remove it. The Gaco oarlocks are revolutionary and I highly recommend them. Finally, purchase a good set of oars like Shaw and Tenney and in the proper length.
RM
 
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