2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread

One thing I do for rear flotation compartments is to put thick backing blocks wherever screws are sunk to mount hardware. I think loose unsealed screws let water in. I size the screw as not to break through the block and into the compartment. This way should water ever get past the 5200 and threads it can't find it's way into the compartment because the block of wood stands in its way.
 
Soles epoxied in place - need to get gaps filled and edges fileted and glassed. I'll then work on getting the deck pieces sized, cut and dry-fit - mainly to see what scraps I'll have for shelves, etc. Hopefully can work the cuts out well enough to avoid picking up an extra piece of plywood.

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Nice work Henry!!
Looking at the floorboard in the bow storage compartment, I see you have a cut-out at the front, 3 round holes in the middle and a long cut-out at the back — what purpose do they serve?
 
Matthias said:
Nice work Henry!!
Looking at the floorboard in the bow storage compartment, I see you have a cut-out at the front, 3 round holes in the middle and a long cut-out at the back — what purpose do they serve?
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The 3 holes are for bungie cords/tie-downs. I'll have 1 fuel tank up there all the time, but can accommodate 2.

The forward and rear cut-outs in that bow section are just providing ways for any water that may blow in to drain to the hull bottom (and back to the bilge area). The larger cutout will also allow me to get my hands under there for cord replacement.
 
Rough-sized deck pieces, tacked down in a few places so I could use the hull to draw the exterior lines. I'll cut a 1/4" or so outside of those lines and then get screw holes marked and drilled and everything dry fit - then plan out any deck mounts (cleats, etc.) so I can determine if there are any areas that need additional support while finishing the below-decks areas.

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HenryHawthorne said:
Rough-sized deck pieces, tacked down in a few places so I could use the hull to draw the exterior lines. I'll cut a 1/4" or so outside of those lines and then get screw holes marked and drilled and everything dry fit - then plan out any deck mounts (cleats, etc.) so I can determine if there are any areas that need additional support while finishing the below-decks areas.

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Looks good that is a great steo to get done.

I just noticed and wished I'd said it sooner, on the 5200, mineral spirits on a rag will dissolve it before cured and will let you work it as much as you like. Also, just an FYI, it does come in black. :)
 
tod osier said:
Looks good that is a great steo to get done.

I just noticed and wished I'd said it sooner, on the 5200, mineral spirits on a rag will dissolve it before cured and will let you work it as much as you like. Also, just an FYI, it does come in black. :)
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Thanks. Acetone worked ok, but will have some mineral spirits on hand for future use. That area is going to get more paint, so wasn't really worried about it.
 
HenryHawthorne said:
Thanks. Acetone worked ok, but will have some mineral spirits on hand for future use. That area is going to get more paint, so wasn't really worried about it.
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Given your beautiful work overall, I will just say again... mineral spirits is great, acetone not to much (and once you go black....).
 
Deck pieces trimmed and screwed down for trial fitting. I have a few small areas that will need some support built-in to ensure the deck is fair, but overall pretty pleased with the overall shape and curves. I may drop the crown slightly on the #s 1 and 2 bulkheads slightly, it looks a touch high to my eye... but I'm going to think on that a bit over the next few days while I plan for cleats and any other items that will go on the deck.

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HenryHawthorne said:
but I'm going to think on that a bit over the next few days while I plan for cleats and any other items that will go on the deck.
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Henry,
One more thing that you might want to think about is any blind supports such as stanchions that protrude below deck. Speaking from experience, it is much easier to add these things now than to retrofit later.
RM
 
One more thing I have found convenient over the years is push pole holes to anchor the boat if in shallow waters. I love a push pole when fishing river systems for catfish or if anchoring off on shorelines. You may be able to add that one little feature as well. One in the front and one towards the rear are ideal and you will be shocked how stable the platform becomes once you have poles down front and back.
 
HenryHawthorne said:
I may drop the crown slightly on the #s 1 and 2 bulkheads slightly, it looks a touch high to my eye... but I'm going to think on that a bit over the next few days while I plan for cleats and any other items that will go on the deck.
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Have a good think about this and go with your gut.

I had planned to do similar at the stern of the boat. I had it all marked out, tools at the ready when my boss Rob came over to see what I was up to. He was shocked when he saw I was going to take 20mm (roughly 3/4”) off at the crown. He was convinced it wasn’t necessary. The discussion went backwards and forwards and in the end I only took off 5mm (3/16” or so). Basically he said that once the boat is on the water and moving around it won’t make any difference and that it was designed like that for a reason.

I should have stuck to my guns. Every time I look at the stern I think it’s too high and now I’m stuck with it. But who knows, maybe later, out on the water it will be fine?
 
HenryHawthorne said:
Deck pieces trimmed and screwed down for trial fitting. I have a few small areas that will need some support built-in to ensure the deck is fair, but overall pretty pleased with the overall shape and curves. I may drop the crown slightly on the #s 1 and 2 bulkheads slightly, it looks a touch high to my eye... but I'm going to think on that a bit over the next few days while I plan for cleats and any other items that will go on the deck.

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That looks good, I think you should be happy with that.
 
Matthias said:
Every time I look at the stern I think it’s too high and now I’m stuck with it. But who knows, maybe later, out on the water it will be fine?
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HenryHawthorne said:
I may drop the crown slightly on the #s 1 and 2 bulkheads slightly, it looks a touch high to my eye...
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Henry and Matthias,
One advantage of crown to the deck is the strength that it adds. Additional reinforcement may be required on a deck without the requisite crown if you intend to walk on it. RM
 
RM Anderson said:
Henry and Matthias,
One advantage of crown to the deck is the strength that it adds. Additional reinforcement may be required on a deck without the requisite crown if you intend to walk on it. RM
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Agree.

To be clear, what's in my mind is creating a touch of drop from cockpit to nose, which would require a little less crown in 1 and 2 (less drop in 2). I built in slightly more crown overall than Devlin called for, so pretty sure I could get away with it... and most of the crown would still exist back towards the cockpit where where is less additional support.

The more I've looked at it, the less likely I am to tweak - but it will remain in this state for at least the rest of the week while I plan a few things, so I'll have time to live with it as-is and confirm.
 
HenryHawthorne said:
... but I'm going to think on that a bit over the next few days while I plan for cleats and any other items that will go on the deck.
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Henry,
Perhaps overkill on inland waters but since you fish coastal you may consider a thru hull transducer. Those cheap plastic transom transducers always find a way to break, particularly on a duck boat. Your initial cost would be higher but I think it would eventually pay for itself at $200 per replacement. RM
 
RM Anderson said:
Henry,
Perhaps overkill on inland waters but since you fish coastal you may consider a thru hull transducer. Those cheap plastic transom transducers always find a way to break, particularly on a duck boat. Your initial cost would be higher but I think it would eventually pay for itself at $200 per replacement. RM
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I've got a spot cut-out for a thru-hull transducer, though I somewhat wish I'd gone with an in-hull transducer. I did make and install and epoxy in a wooden fairing to offer protection for it. I'm confident it will be much more durable than the ones screwed to the transom, and it will offer some side-scan capability an in-hull wouldn't (good for "mapping" unknown areas more quickly) - but at the expense of protruding from the hull slightly.
 
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