Those tabs you are going to use sure seem like they have potential as an attachment point as well. Does your pup not like to come in over the gunnel?
2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread
- Thread starter HenryHawthorne
- Start date
Those tabs you are going to use sure seem like they have potential as an attachment point as well. Does your pup not like to come in over the gunnel?
Unknown, yet. The functioning boat I have now is a Whaler - sides are too high to test much. She'd probably be fine with it with a hand on her neck, but if I can come up with a simple enough design why not make it easy on her.
I'm for minimalism as far as clutter and stuff to get tangled into. Decoys, anchors and gear gets bad enough. The only dog ladder I'd consider is someone had one that was attached to the bow that folded into the water and stowed/folded tight to the deck, but that would be in the way for fishing.
All of my dogs have had no problem with the low sides of the snow goose.
If I build a blind on my rig this year, Im going to put a dog ladder in. The steps on the transom are nice, but I hate when the pooch comes in through there. I have all my boxes and gear and even though they call them dry boxes, they aint. If I could get her coming in off the bow keep the mud and water towards that end of the boat, I would be a much happier man. Also, I have the high deck, so I want build the blind and leave enough of an ear where Ill jut put up her dog blind and she can go in and out of her blind on the deck of the boat. ideally, the ladder would be right in front of her blind. By the time water fell off the front there, it would be well under the floor and no where near where the boxes with the gear are.
For My Kara Hummer I designed this, though it is not needed now because Berta can clamber up without it. Until she gets older it won't see much use but I would like to adapt the idea to my poleboat which has much higher sides. RM
How did you build this? I have a rail system, I was honestly thinking I was just going to buy something that mounted to the rail system and then just stored in the boat when running down the lake. Ive thought about building something, but summer is getting away and ill be lucky to get a blind put on by the time i get it back from Utah after the motor rebuild.
Vevor bench mounted tubing bender, about $100. 1" aluminum tubing, 7 or 8 ft long, outdoor tiles, and zip ties. For symmetry, mark the middle of the tubing at zero and measure outwards at one inch increments on each side. RM
(Proverbs 12:10 KJV) A righteous man regardeth the life of his beast...
(Proverbs 12:10 KJV) A righteous man regardeth the life of his beast...
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Fill coat complete and keel installed.
Damn, you're an old pro! I'm coming to you for advice! RM
That looks fantastic.
The reflections of that metal siding on the fill coat would tell any lies you had! Very pretty work!
Thanks guys. Each new step comes with a bit of trepidation, but once I dive in I realize how valuable all of the detailed boat builds on this forum (and lessons learned shared in them) have been in prepping. It's slow, but I'm pleased with the the progress and results so far.
@William Reinicke , @tod osier
While building I've periodically wondered about placing the strakes/runners at the edge of the bottom of the hull, under the chine, rather than more at the midpoint as-designed. This would mimic a reverse chine and also provide some additional protection for the chine itself, but would leave more of the bottom exposed between chine and keel and provide less stiffness.
I'll likely stay as-designed, but given your discussion about reverse chines thought I'd throw this out for your thoughts.
The boat looks great, it is really going to slow down when you flip if you are going to maintain that level of detail and thoughtfulness. Don't get me wrong, post flip is a lot of fun and I still remember sitting in the boat into the evening thinking and planning as a positive life memory - BUT it will look like a boat and generally the same for a long long time.
Given how the hull behaves, I'd be scared to do a lot of messing around. For those who don't know, these hulls need for a lot of power to get on plane which is driven the very short planing surface. The boat performs well as is on plane (tight in curves, handles chop well for the boat weight and amount of "V", etc...), so something else to confound things makes me nervous. It may be a panacea, but may cause new problems.
The strakes take a lot of the damage, I'd want one where designed AND another if you are adding. When you start looking at placing the additional outer strakes you will find that the hull (chine) is pretty curved in that area, they would be really short if in line with the keel and you obviously wouldn't want them to follow the curve of the chine.