2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread

tod osier said:
I think a well-heeled fella like him with an air conditioned shop doesn't worry about humidity other than in his humidor. :)

If you ever get into the weeds on the epoxy discussions there are conversations about how it can be permeable to moisture vapor. I've never payed it much mind, since I know it works having trusted my life to it for years. There are also people that get worked up about condensation that occurs within voids in plywood contributing to rot. Again, not something I lose sleep over.

Even if the wood is wet it isn't going to rot very fast since there isn't much air in exchange.
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Tod,
I probably went a little overboard on the rot issue. All interior surfaces of the boat, but especially the bilge, received several coats of penetrating epoxy followed by a couple coats of neat epoxy. The System Three penetrating epoxy really gets into every crevice and is super easy to apply. A side benefit is that it stinks so bad that no organisms living in the wood could possibly survive. No proof of this of course but that's my theory and I'm sticking to it! RM
 
RM Anderson said:
Honestly I don't even know how a stitch and glue boat builder would manage the humidity in some areas of the country so as not to encapsulate alot of moisture in the plywood itself. Henry, Is it much drier there in the winter months or do you run a dehumidifier?
RM
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Yes, a bit, anyway. Only 64% this evening. I have a couple minisplits in my shop (a pretty leaky old metal building) to keep it down a touch, mainly for cars/tools.

I don't lose a lot of sleep over moisture content in wood (once "dry", as marine plywood obviously is) - that MC is going to naturally and constantly be higher here than in your neck of the woods. I do worry about encapsulated air pockets, but the moisture a piece of wood holds (even the small voids in plywood) shouldn't cause an issue. Another reason for using good, marine plywood, just in case.
 
Believe me when I say that I want a boat to last. Friends are still using boats I built over 40 years ago. But I never sweat stuff like "what if it rots in 20 years". That's happened for a variety of reasons, but never have I thought moisture in the wood during build was a factor. I like building boats, when stuff happens it's an excuse for another! You're doing a really nice job on your boat Henry. Don't worry about moisture or air pockets. Get 'er done and enjoy the boat, while you build the next one. :)
 
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Much happier. I should have done this to start - 3 sections is a lot easier to maneuver in and out for tweaks, and will make life a lot simpler if I'm epoxying it down solo. Need to make the 3rd section tomorrow, then final tweaks for fit - then will turn to access hatches.
 
Henry

I keep a boot jack in my truck all season for getting waders off. A couple years ago I tore a muscle getting some waders off that I repaired the boot. All that sealant made the coefficient of friction so high I like to never get them off. Now I need a boot jack just to keep from reinjuring my leg. Mine looks nowhere near as nice as that.
 
Eric Patterson said:
Henry

I keep a boot jack in my truck all season for getting waders off. A couple years ago I tore a muscle getting some waders off that I repaired the boot. All that sealant made the coefficient of friction so high I like to never get them off. Now I need a boot jack just to keep from reinjuring my leg. Mine looks nowhere near as nice as that.
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It was a nice piece of bocote I had around waiting for a project. When my wife asked for a boot jack, it immediately came to mind.
 
HenryHawthorne said:
The other projects that pulled me away from boatwork...

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Henry,
I keep going back to this post with the table you made. I would like to make something similar to mount my MEC Sizemaster to. Currently I am set up for centerfire rifle reloading in my office which is carpeted and I am anticipating alot more spilled powder when reloading shotgun shells. Spilled powder and vacuum cleaners don't mix hence a separate station in our heated garage. Doesn't need to be that pretty but do you think it would be sufficiently stable for such use? RM
 
RM Anderson said:
Henry,
I keep going back to this post with the table you made. I would like to make something similar to mount my MEC Sizemaster to. Currently I am set up for centerfire rifle reloading in my office which is carpeted and I am anticipating alot more spilled powder when reloading shotgun shells. Spilled powder and vacuum cleaners don't mix hence a separate station in our heated garage. Doesn't need to be that pretty but do you think it would be sufficiently stable for such use? RM
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Stable enough, yes... but the picture makes it look bigger than it is. It is really a stool.

Once I'm done with my boat, my next "big" project is a proper woodworking bench, which I'll design to be usable as a reloading bench, too. Not fully decided, but leaning towards an English/Nicholson style bench.

If you need something quick and easy, the bench that the grinder is on in thay picture is a store-bought "Gladiator". It has a maple top and the legs are adjustable for height (pretty easily changed if you need changing heights). Its quite stable and solid, even on large casters. Would be a good alternative, particularly if you want something you cam move around to get out of the way.
 
HenryHawthorne said:
Stable enough, yes... but the picture makes it look bigger than it is. It is really a stool.

Once I'm done with my boat, my next "big" project is a proper woodworking bench, which I'll design to be usable as a reloading bench, too. Not fully decided, but leaning towards an English/Nicholson style bench.

If you need something quick and easy, the bench that the grinder is on in thay picture is a store-bought "Gladiator". It has a maple top and the legs are adjustable for height (pretty easily changed if you need changing heights). Its quite stable and solid, even on large casters. Would be a good alternative, particularly if you want something you cam move around to get out of the way.
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Thank you, I will check it out. RM
 
Waiting on the epoxy on the sole pieces to cure a bit more, I did a dry run at a hatch cutout with my router to get a sense of how many passes I'd need to make, etc.

Then decided to test an idea to add a seal with some 1/4" rubber tubing, less for sealing and more for preventing chatter. The tube walls are only about 1/16" thick - good for being malleable, but may not hold up so I may look for something with thicker walls. On the other hand, shouldn't get lots of direct wear. As always, I welcome your thoughts and recommendations.

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