2025 Devlin Snow Goose Thread

My only thought is that some recommend running your FF/GPS on a separate circuit with its own CB/inline fuse to avoid possible interference, but I think that was only an issue on older models. Its also the most sensitive piece of equipment on most boats, so protecting it from power surges is also a concern.
Good call-out. As I understand it, the chief culprit is having a trolling motor on the same circuit... will definitely have that on a dedicated circuit.

In an effort to avoid another switch, I'm going to try it with the GPS/FF running through the same panel as lights, etc... but if I'm getting interference it should be simple enough to pull that off the panel and run a dedicated circuit and switch. Will definitely have it on a dedicated fuse near the unit.
 
I like the idea of the Yardina combiner. I have never seen one of these. I currently have my starter battery in the stern. My deep cycle in the bow with and on board charger/maintainer that I plug in when it is in the driveway. The batteries are not tied together at all but my switch panel can be ran off either battery. I like the idea of being able to charge the deep cycle form the alternator when I am on the water and charge the starter when the on-board charger is plugged in. But the bigger issue I would like to solve is there have been a few times when something gets left on with the starter battery and its dead when I get to the boat ramp.

I cannot find how long the cables are. Does anybody have this info?
 
I like the idea of the Yardina combiner. I have never seen one of these. I currently have my starter battery in the stern. My deep cycle in the bow with and on board charger/maintainer that I plug in when it is in the driveway. The batteries are not tied together at all but my switch panel can be ran off either battery. I like the idea of being able to charge the deep cycle form the alternator when I am on the water and charge the starter when the on-board charger is plugged in. But the bigger issue I would like to solve is there have been a few times when something gets left on with the starter battery and its dead when I get to the boat ramp.

I cannot find how long the cables are. Does anybody have this info?
I'll measure mine tomorrow, but they can be extended. What you can't do is shorten them... I'll have to re-find the explanation.
 
I like the idea of the Yardina combiner. I have never seen one of these. I currently have my starter battery in the stern. My deep cycle in the bow with and on board charger/maintainer that I plug in when it is in the driveway. The batteries are not tied together at all but my switch panel can be ran off either battery. I like the idea of being able to charge the deep cycle form the alternator when I am on the water and charge the starter when the on-board charger is plugged in. But the bigger issue I would like to solve is there have been a few times when something gets left on with the starter battery and its dead when I get to the boat ramp.

I cannot find how long the cables are. Does anybody have this info?
I was looking back through some information I'd saved. I think the Combiner 100 (for alternator putting out less than 100 amps) has 2 foot long 10g wires. Either can be extended. Or, if you use an on/off switch for your 2 batteries, you can alternatively connect the Combiner leads to the positive cables from each battery at the switch. I'll probably do the latter on mine. As I mentioned, you cannot shorten the cables as their length and size play a part in protecting the switch within the Combiner. See below.

Why does shortening the leads on the Combiner void the warranty?​

When two batteries are connected in parallel there can be a very high current flowing from the one at a higher voltage to the one at a lower state of charge. The length and size of the leads supplied provide a resistance to high currents which protects the relay from welding its contacts together when it closes. Since the current drops to zero as the batteries reach full charge, there is no residual voltage drop across these wires so the batteries can reach full charge.
So, shortening the leads can cause the Combiner to be damaged through incorrect installation which is not covered by warranty.
 
Henry,
In retrospect I think I know why you fillets looked small; because mine are too big! Fillets were one area that I truly struggled. At the end of the project I had greatly improved, but it was my least enjoyable task. If you don't mind me asking, how do you lay the bead for the fillets? I used pastry bags which worked OK but still a pain in the ass. RM
Well, something wasn't sitting right in my mind so I checked the book again... depth should be the same as the plywood thickness, not 50%. With 2 layers of biax and associated epoxy, my total fillets certainly meet his recommendation, but not my "raw" fillets - which I think is what he means. Given the amount of structure in the rear, with the longitudinals and extra 3/4" transom piece against which they seat, I have very little concern about strength... but will likely add a little more glass and epoxy at the most vulnerable joints. I'll definitely beef up future fillets a little.

I planned to use zip lock bags, but when I saw how cheap cake icing bags are on Amazon I orders a pack of them instead. So far they've worked well.
 
Well, something wasn't sitting right in my mind so I checked the book again... depth should be the same as the plywood thickness, not 50%. With 2 layers of biax and associated epoxy, my total fillets certainly meet his recommendation, but not my "raw" fillets - which I think is what he means. Given the amount of structure in the rear, with the longitudinals and extra 3/4" transom piece against which they seat, I have very little concern about strength... but will likely add a little more glass and epoxy at the most vulnerable joints. I'll definitely beef up future fillets a little.

I planned to use zip lock bags, but when I saw how cheap cake icing bags are on Amazon I orders a pack of them instead. So far they've worked well.
Henry,
The cake icing bags seem to work better than any other method I've tried. To fill them I insert them into a tall measuring cup like a trash bag liner.
My fillets are probably overkill for a human powered skiff but I like to error on the side of caution. The hull is 1/4" but the bulkheads are 1/2" so I split the difference in fillet size. Oh well, I was never intending to roof rack it. RM
 
Still fiddling around with battery locations, but think I've settled on a plan. There is never the perfect solution that is both protected/out of the way and easily accessible. I think for the rear battery, that is snug between 2 bulkheads and below the deck/seat, I'm going to make a battery box that will slide out drawer-style. I hate messing with batteries on my back or side and reaching it to tight spaces.

With basic layout settled, I'm going to build what I need before getting bulkheads epoxied in place. That way if I decide an inch or two one way or the other, or a different access hole, etc. would be useful I can make changes more easily.

Getting measurements for a front floorpiece for gas tanks/storage.

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