Adding gunnels and top on my one Garvey

Luke

Nice workshop and garvey. Either you scored some vintage locker workbenches or you are working from a surviving tech school.

Eric
 
Thanks you my design will be similar with plywood knees supporting the wash boards. I posted the template plywood I used then a finished knee I made from two layers of 3/4 ply. The knees will be spaced 48" apart with framing in between. I cannot find any 3/8 marine ply. Locally I can only find 1/2 inch thickness and it's marine fir not Okume. 989F3398-81B1-40D5-96F3-A5FF6942149B.jpeg0A9E0FEB-F3F6-47FA-9FEA-C2E055E71CF4.jpeg
 
I will post a picture if I can later my plan is run the plywood flush with the outside of the existing fiberglass boat gunnel. Then glass from on top of the new wash board down with a slight radius. Gluing the ply with epoxy and wood flour/cabosil as you suggested then reinstall the rubber rub rail. If that makes any sense. I will try to include a picture but this lack of availability of 3/8 ply has me looking all over for the right material.
 
Steve

You mentioned finding bronze cleats is getting hard to do. That has been my observation as well. However, I do know of a foundry in PA that will cast bronze if you can give them a pattern. So if you want to reproduce cleats, or other bronze boat hardware, I can help. The cost is a lot lower than you might think. Probably lower than the reclaimed boat hardware on ebay.

Eric
 
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Eric~


I'll keep that lead in mind. I've often thought of having one my my sleeper bow handles cast in bronze.


For the Sneakbox I got from Josh a couple of Tuckertons ago, I may make my "hardware" from Black Locust. Hervey Garrett Smith'sMarlinspike Sailor has some nice plans. I made a nice pair of jam cleats to his design - from White Oak - for my old gaff sloop WILLET:


Wooden Cleat Plans - MARLINSPIKE SAILOR p. 90.jpg



All the best,


SJS











 
Luke~


Great vessels!


I hope you can make it to the SSWA Duckboat Show - with or without one of your boats. Let's be sure to talk Garveys.


All the best,


SJS

 
C3434875-10BB-4A08-A933-9D37ACCE577C.jpeg I put CDX on it to see how it would all work out. Marine ply at 200 a sheet I don't want to cut that stuff up to find out it didn't work. Also I bought a larger engine.
 
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Also to tell a bit more of the story I bought that 60 hp Yamaha for $1000. The gentleman who had it told me it ran had great compression but would lose power at WOT almost coming to a stall. He worked on the problem for weeks and could not fix it. He told me he went through the carbs twice no luck, then three fuel pumps, numerous filters, new fuel tank, fuel line, and finally the computer. This was in 2020 and had been sitting ever since. I bought it after verifying compression adding a bit of oil to the dry system. 115-118 pounds in each cylinder. Got it home and pulling off a small fuel line between the filter and the pump I located a obstruction in the line. I will include a picture of it but it looks to me someone snapped off the nipple to the fuel filter and over time crushed it down so fuel could barley pass by. I replaced all the lines and cleaned carbs checked lower unit oil and test drive it ran very well. I ordered Yamaha fuel lines to replace the yellow.you can see the yellow is pinched where I found the obstruction. It only had a 1/16 size hole in the plastic. I popped it from the fuel line in the one picture. Needless to say it was a blessing.


6EBA1BAA-0AAE-4B4F-8B6E-E5F3AF6B4C37.jpeg0B1954DD-1EA5-44AB-8D1F-4EF31D5E17C5.jpeg2E4064BA-D87E-4030-AE02-5BBCA76774C7.jpeg
 
Wow, what a bargain and what a quick fix for something that gave the previous owner fits.
 
Good morning, Josh~


Instead of marine ply for decks I often use AC. (I would not use AC for the bottom or sides, though.)


What I typically do is put the A side down AFTER I have sealed it with epoxy. (And, I often paint it a paler grey (masking the mating surfaces at the framing) so I can see more easily underneath when installing hardware or whatever in the future.



I fill any imperfections in the C side and put it up. As I am going to sheath it with epoxy + cloth, my filling et cetera will be covered by the cloth and at least 3 coats of resin.


I would round over the outboard edges of the plywood with router and be sure the edge grain is well-filled with resin before I glassed over the gunnels. The inside edge I would round just slightly - but be sure the coamings are well-bedded when they are installed.



BTW: I use bronze boat nails to fasten the plywood - to avoid the countersinking needed with screws - and bed the mating surfaces on the framing with 5200 or something similar.


Hope this helps!


SJS








 
Thank you it does help because as of now I can't get 3/8 marine ply within 100 miles. My next question is a epoxy question. When I went to a local fiberglass supplier for cloth (I know not to use bonded mat with epoxy) the owner tried to encourage me to use polyester. I already ordered 2.5 gallons of us composites with fast hardener. He stated I couldn't go over epoxy with other epoxy saying I have to wait between coats? I was under the impression as I have done before I could install my knees to the sides of my current gunnels with spots thickened with cabosil wood flour mix then tape over those joints with my 6 ounce cloth similar to stitch and glue construction. Correct me if I am wrong. Also if I can do this I know about blush and how I will have more with faster cure resin can I re-coat on wet resin like after it has set up to fill in the weave or do I let it harden remove the blush and then re-coat. Sorry this guy (who has minimal epoxy experience) told me I can't "hot coat" over epoxy.
 
Josh~


Stick to your guns! Only epoxy over wood....


And, yes, you can roll on a second coat once the first coat is not fully cured. You cannot roll on a second coat right away - it needs to cure to the tacky stage. I do this commonly.


If it is fully cured, you must wash off the amine blush (with warm water), then scuff sand with 80-grit.


All the best,


SJS


 
Josh

You might want to grab some slow cure hardener too. Running out of time with a cup full of semi-cured thickened epoxy won't put a smile on your face. Wetting out cloth is fairly fast but making fillets can take more time that I care to admit. I have always used both and mix the two as well to get the right working time.

When it comes time to sheath the decks you are going to have two choices. 1) Apply wet cloth, or 2) apply dry cloth and then wet. Having done it both ways I would absolutely recommend you wet the cloth after it has been trimmed and placed on the deck. Don't worry, the epoxy will flow through the cloth onto the plywood deck no problem. With a squeegee you can spread it around and work it in. Then a foam roller will even it out.

Eric
 
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