airbrush help

Kenny Pizinky

New member
iwata eclipse hp-bcs (0.5mm) vs pasche vl #5 (1.05mm)

Am I going to get screwed with the 0.5mm trying to bust out a couple dozen of decoys? Is it not feasible does it take to many passes and not enough paint on a 0.5mm because of how much you have to thin it using rustoleum paint?
 
I have heard good thing about Iwata, but have never used one. I'm a bit surprised they say at .5 it could handle heavier material. In the paasche vl, the # 1 tip is .55 and I've used it for inks and very thin paints and stains, the # 5 tip as you mentioned is 1.05, it's used for heavy material like acrylics and oil based enamels. I know a lot of guys who use Iwata, but I don't know what kind of paint they use. The paasche VL 5 handles lightly thinned oil based enamels like rustoleum. This is a good website for airbrush stuff, https://www.midwestairbrush.com/collections/airbrushes
 
I have heard good thing about Iwata, but have never used one. I'm a bit surprised they say at .5 it could handle heavier material. In the paasche vl, the # 1 tip is .55 and I've used it for inks and very thin paints and stains, the # 5 tip as you mentioned is 1.05, it's used for heavy material like acrylics and oil based enamels. I know a lot of guys who use Iwata, but I don't know what kind of paint they use. The paasche VL 5 handles lightly thinned oil based enamels like rustoleum. This is a good website for airbrush stuff, https://www.midwestairbrush.com/collections/airbrushes
well maybe your number #1 0.55 mm tip will answer it. Why don't you use 0.55 mm tip to paint flocked birds? If you could take the rustoleum and thin it out more? The iwata i mention says 1/16 to 2inches coverage wise. is the quality or durability not there with too much thinner or does it take too much time and passes to saturate adequately you think?
 
The .55 tip won't work with oil based enamel. If you thinned it enough to go through it wouldn't cover anything. Even the #3 tip, .75 does a poor job and has to be thinned to the point it's not quality or durable or takes several passes. We've been doing the #5 for a long time and it was a vast improvement over the .75. I wouldn't even attempt the .55. We paint hundreds of decoys a week, so we've spent the time to figure out what works best. Fine lining to 1/16 isn't a problem with the 5 tip, just getting used to paint viscosity, humidity, hot and cold are the variables that you just have to get by experience.
 
I use An Iwata Neo with a .5 tip. I'm painting high flow golden acrylics and it does good for what I do but if I was doing a bunch of whole body painting I would want a bigger opening.

When it comes to using rust oleum paint I would go with Dons advice since he is accustomed to that style of paint.


Also welcome to the forum.
 
Oil based enamels are kind of a finicky group. Never is the viscosity in a new can of paint the same and there is a lot of judgment in getting the right flow. Make sure you get true 100% mineral spirits to thin with, it's clear and flows like water. It took my son, Caleb a while to figure out how to mix his paint. We paint over flocking almost exclusively, the flocking glue is oil based enamel, often rustoleum. I like to keep the airbrush paint compatible with the flocking glue. I thin and filter my airbrush oil based enamel and it's kind of a lot of just eyeballing how thick or thin it is. Kind of as a rule of thumb is how it pours through the filter, if it's too thick, it won't flow through very well. As a general rule if the paint flows through the filter it will flow through the #5. Before I started making decoys I painted with Lifetone Lacquer, it comes in all the colors and is airbrush ready. It's shiny, so it wasn't a good choice for decoys and isn't durable over flocking, more for painting decorative or as in my case painting fish mounts and fish carvings where the glossiness wouldn't matter. I painted with a lot of hydro mist in the 80's when I lived in Kansas and Illinois with all that humidity and it worked fine. When I moved to Idaho where summer humidity is commonly below 20% I couldn't hardly get the water based hydromist to get to the end of the needle before it clogged up. Lacquer based paints are almost self cleaning and until decoys came along it was good for all of my product lines.

The rule of thumb for painting over flocking is to get the viscosity to the point that it will flow through the 1.05, as thick as you can still get it to paint. The stronger the paint the better the coverage and durability. Today it's in the 50's this morning and will top out in the upper 70's, paint is going to flow and plugging will be minimal. Another side note, airbrushing white over flocking requires drying time and for white white like a wigeon cap or wood duck chin straps, they must be hand painted. I have a whole bunch of eclipsed pintails that I'll be enhancing with airbrush white today after sitting a day.
 
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