Alumacraft Ducker Question...

I recently picked up a ducker (D-1355) and I wanted to build a wooden floor for lack of a better term to keep my backside out of the water that accumulates after normal use. I've seen a few photos of duckers with this type of flooring ( sorry I'm not sure the proper term) Just wondering if any of you could help me out.

I'd post an image, but I cant figure out how.



Thanks
 
Charles I built a slatted panel to fit in my Ducker. I like it because it keeps me our of the water that collects in the bottom and distributes the weight of my footfalls.

I used 1x Red Cedar.

I placed cross slats in front of each of the aluminum ribs in the bottom of the Ducker, then I ran slats length wise to create my floor.
 
A couple things to consider....The Ducker is lightweight and you may want to keep it that way with out adding a false floor. Also, if you hunt with a dog, you would need the false floor to be such that the dog's paws wouldn't get caught in the floor grate. I have switched to one of Ira McCauley's Momarsh Invisalounge seats.

http://www.momarsh.com/shallow-water-solutions/sws-invisilounge-1-25/

They keep you off the bottom of the boat, keep the weight down and won't hurt the dog's paws. Plus it is great for shore hunting and turkey hunting.
 
Charles~

Since I am a stodgy old terminology crank....

The most accurate term for what you want to make - a single piece not fastened to the hull but to protect the bottom and to keep you above any nuisance water is "duck boards". Tim's approach is right on the money. If you can, you might want to try 1/2-inch stock to keep them thinner. and lighter. I will be using 1/2-inch Pine to make some duckboards for a Great South Bay Scooter later this winter. But, I have also had good success with 3/8-inch AC plywood. The key with either is to fasten them to "cleats" that rest on the bottom of the boat AND are spaced between the frames (ribs) so that the board cannot slide fore and aft.

Here is a plywood set I made for a Sunfish conversion - showing underside with "cleats":

31%20Floorboard%20cleats_zpskolpg8xm.jpg


Here is a traditional set from my Scooter - also showing underside with "cleats":

Gear%207_zpstaihcv9p.jpg


True "floorboards" usually cover an entire floor, are usually fastened to the frames - best called "floors" - and have a way - often one easily removable board - to give access to the bilge.

All the best,

SJS
 
I would encourage you to follow Tim's suggestion. A cedar duck board will add little to the boats total weight. What it will do is keep you, your dog, and your gear out of the bilge water over the course of a hunt, as well as keeping the dog's body away from a very cold hull material, extending your hunt and aiding your retriever's comfort level for a day in the marsh. Since these boats have no drain hole, a small cut-out in the duckboards under one of the boat's end cap decks will enable access, via a sponge to soak-up some of that growing volume of water on a hunt and drain it back over the side, as well as keeping it in a spot where the dog's paw won't likely get caught in it. Your other option would be to pick-up a Kayak hand operated bilge pump with an exhaust extension hose on it, which would enable you to use a smaller cut-out in the duck board.
 
Since you live in Wisconsin, you may look into Redwood. I've used Redwood for those types of things a few times with great success. It is soft, bends easily, easy to work, predictable, holds up to moisture very well, and is extremely light.

I too, am a big fan of slats. The rest has been recommended above.

Jon
 
Since you live in Wisconsin, you may look into Redwood. I've used Redwood for those types of things a few times with great success. It is soft, bends easily, easy to work, predictable, holds up to moisture very well, and is extremely light.

I too, am a big fan of slats. The rest has been recommended above.

Jon

I happen to know someone with a ducker that could use something like this Jon if you are ever bored!
 
I'm with Ron. Keep it light. What I did is to put a flotation cushions in the bottom. Lightweight and gets you off the bottom of the boat. Provides insulation for your rear end when it gets really cold. Can also be taken out of the boat and used as a cushion whoever you sit if you don't hunt from the boat

Mark W
 
I have a Alumacraft Ducker question - was there a model made by them called a Super Ducker. A couple for years ago I was lucky and acquired a 1959 Lund Ducker and while hunting this week in Texas a guy that was there has what he called a Super Ducker by Alumacraft. Thanks in advance for any responses,
 
I believe the Retriever was the only other duck boat Alumacraft made and that was basically a square stern version of the Ducker.
 
Jim~

Interesting - I love the indigenous nature of terminology, especially around boats, decoys and gunning.

Being a Long Island native, "false bottom" evokes rumrunners and hidden compartments - which may have done double-duty to hide over-limit birds or corn on more than one occasion.

All the best,

SJS
 
Here is another attempt at a photo..
Red cedar ripped from a 2x4 with sleepers contoured on the bottom and level on top.
Screwed with stainless from the bottom
Then sealed with 5200.

It is very light weight, blends well with no paint and has held up well.

http://www.duckboats.net/forum/images/files/image.gif

View attachment photo.JPG
 
Cool, Ron; thanks. That's a way better pic than most of the Retriever photos I've seen.
I was fortunate enough to pick up a 1957 Ducker locally this summer for half of what they're going for elsewhere. Thrilled to have it in the armada particularly for the shallow, rocky waters of the Upper Mo. Similar to what you mentioned above, I too am taking the minimalist approach using one of Ira's seats for myself and a small section of Kennel Deck for the pup. The previous owner fabbed a pretty neat motor mount as well but I removed it for now for the weight savings and since I primarily paddle in the area where I most often use it.
 
D.J., I'm a fan of the 50's vintage Duckers. The airbox seems to make the boat just a bit more rugged. Plus, most boats of that vintage already have the dents and scrapes so one doesn't tend to be too concerned about adding another "battle scar" to the hull.
 
I've been wanting to transform mine into a marsh layout with a small dodger and bottom deck. Just not sure where to put the dog. Anyone have any experience setting this up this way?
 
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